[n00b] Wetsanding/Buffing my freshly painted car

[Shoobie]

Hello everyone. I`m a complete n00b when it comes to anything detailing related, but I am eager to learn. Half the reason is because, until now, my black 1995 Acura Integra had so much damage that anything more than washing it was pointless. In August I left the world of fast-food (permanently, hopefully) and got a part time job at a body shop. I mostly come in after hours to clean the shop, but when I have time they teach me prep work.



Over the course of a few months I fixed about 30 dents, replaced a fender, bumper, and headlights, and shaved the side mouldings. The car was painted 3 weeks ago, and I am very happy with the results. However.......



After lurking here on and off for several years, I know that this car can look much, much better than it does. It has noticable orange peel, and the hood has some noticable dirt in the clear. No, our shop is not the best, but I`m not complaining. Standard procedure at the shop would be to wetsand with Meguiar`s 1500, followed by a wool pad and 3M swirl remover (unsure of the technical name). Then they`d go over it with a white pad with a grey 3M compound (sorry again, but I don`t know the specific names), then a black finishing pad with a blue 3M compound.



These guys don`t really want to help me with the buffing, so I`d like to tackle it on my own. I have a PC (bought it crazy cheap a while back) and am willing to buy pads/polishes. Since the paint is still fresh, it shouldn`t be sealed/waxed, correct?



I`ve been sifting through the countless pages of search results, and I`ve read most of the articles in the guide to detailing, but I`m having trouble finding information relating to new paint. I guess that experimenting will be the only way to find the method that works best for me, but I`m hoping that some of the experts here can point me in the right direction. I`m not afraid of being flamed (I hang out at honda-tech).



I`m thinking; wetsand /w 1500 (then a higher grit? my coworkers don`t, but they do body work, not detailing), then a cutting pad /w (medium polish?) (x2?). Then a lighter polish on a polishing pad? I thought I knew what direction I`d be going in, but now I`m 100% unsure.



I`ll try to get some pictures of the orange peel, so if you need pics to give advice, let me know. Eventually I`ll post some start to finish pics.



Thanks in advance for any help!!!

[BobD]

The one thing I can recommend is Four Star Abrasive Enhancing Gel instead of water. I know people are afraid to try it because it is a new concept but it works great for wetsanding.



Also, I recommend a high speed rotary to take care of sanding marks. The Pc will take forever.

[Shoobie]

The one thing I can recommend is Four Star Abrasive Enhancing Gel instead of water. I know people are afraid to try it because it is a new concept but it works great for wetsanding.



Also, I recommend a high speed rotary to take care of sanding marks. The Pc will take forever.

I was really hoping that I could use the PC, as I haven`t been trained to use a rotary. I didn`t want to wait for someone to help me, but I guess that I`ll have to.

[mikebai1990]

Why don`t you take some pictures so we can give you some tips? The PC will work in all cases, but if the paint damage is extensive, it will take significantly longer with the PC.

[the other pc]

Trust me, you don’t want to even think about trying to use a PC to remove #1500 sanding scratch.



The finer (higher number) you go on the sanding the less work it will be to buff it out. The other guys have more practice so they can start with a heavier scratch pattern but they’re also trying to get the work out fast, not best. You’ll want to be more methodical and conservative.



The car we were working on Wednesday night got #1500 to remove the orange peel, then went to #2000 to remove the #1500 scratch and #4000 to remove the #2000 scratch. Mirka abrasive disks were used with DA sanders.



Then the rotary buff with wool, then foam, then a DA buff. Yeah, that’s a lot of work but it comes out really nice. But that was a show car too.



If you’ll be using sandpaper definitely stick with the Meguiar’s sheets. They really do make the final buff out easier.





PC.

[Accumulator]

What the Other PC said :xyxthumbs

[imported_rydawg]

Trust me, you don’t want to even think about trying to use a PC to remove #1500 sanding scratch.



The finer (higher number) you go on the sanding the less work it will be to buff it out. The other guys have more practice so they can start with a heavier scratch pattern but they’re also trying to get the work out fast, not best. You’ll want to be more methodical and conservative.



The car we were working on Wednesday night got #1500 to remove the orange peel, then went to #2000 to remove the #1500 scratch and #4000 to remove the #2000 scratch. Mirka abrasive disks were used with DA sanders.



Then the rotary buff with wool, then foam, then a DA buff. Yeah, that’s a lot of work but it comes out really nice. But that was a show car too.



If you’ll be using sandpaper definitely stick with the Meguiar’s sheets. They really do make the final buff out easier.





PC.

I agree with you also as I have done 100`s of wet sands and buffs. 1500 then 2000, 4000 wetsand, then a wool on rotory (with caution slow speed and take time) and then use your pc with a lc white pad with finish polish and it will be like glass. Also works wonders on old paint! It is quite a bit of work, but the end results are beyond amazing! Remember to take your time and enjoy your work!

[imported_rydawg]

Shoobie: Do you already have the 3m stuff or do you have to buy it? I use presta compounds and they are just amazing on wetsanding finishes. Quite a few people are also using sure finish with super results. I have not tried surefinish myself, but I have heard from a bunch of people that it is more user friendly for a newby! 3m stuff is just more for a pro and the grit does not break down fast enough. Just trying to help you out!