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  1. #1

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    My dad just bought this 91 Ferrari 348ts with 14,700 on the clock. The car is clean for being 16 years old, it just needs a little TLC. I know the car is a single stage so I was very cautious in what I did with what I had. I just want your help in gettting this car to what it should be. The paint now has signifcantly more depth and gloss than before, but has stubborn swirls and scratches which are proving to be a pain to remove.



    I just ordered OP compound and the Menzerna polishes; do you think these products will get me the results I am after? Also, the rear bonnet cover sees a lot of heat from the engine and is oxidized, I was able to remove some of the oxidation, but not a lot. Whenever I bring a product to it, it seems to absorb it, making it near impossible to remove; ideas? I was thinking of buying the FK1 high temp wax to use on it after it is restored. Thanks guys, and here are the pics and specs:



    Body:



    -FK1 Spray Detail

    -Sonus Paint Cleanser With DAS green and blue pads @5 (helped rid the very superficial scratches

    -tried Meg #9 with DAS green pad @ 5 (did nothing)

    -treid SSR 2.5 with DAS orange pad @ 5 (did nothing)

    -AIO by hand (help cut back on some swirls)

    -FK1 Pink Wax

    -FK1 425 wipe down



    Wheels:



    -AIO

    -FK1 2180

    -FK1 FX 100

    -FK1 425

    -Black Magic Extreme tire shine on tires



    Interior:



    -Wiped down everything leather with Leatherique Pristine Clean




































  2. #2

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  3. #3

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    anyone have an idea?

  4. #4

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    It looks excellent even with the scratches, however, I have another question: why`s the speedo reading 10mph while it`s stationary?

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by lemans23
    It looks excellent even with the scratches, however, I have another question: why`s the speedo reading 10mph while it`s stationary?


    I have always wondered that as well! It`s funny, because the stopper needle is at the 10mph mark, so it`s supposed to be that way!

  6. #6

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    I may be mistaken but that`s not single stage paint. It should be cleared.



    The rear area may be a repaint and perhaps not a good one either. Need better pics to tell more.



    The Menzerna/Optimum should work just fine in getting the paint leveled.



    Anthony
    "The Art & Science of Auto Detail"

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony Orosco
    I may be mistaken but that`s not single stage paint. It should be cleared.



    The rear area may be a repaint and perhaps not a good one either. Need better pics to tell more.



    The Menzerna/Optimum should work just fine in getting the paint leveled.



    Anthony


    I am pretty confident it is not cleacoated as other guys with even 92 Ferraris have no clear...as far as the rear piece, it sees A LOT of heat, which leads me to believe it never held any wax b/c it would just melt off always leaving it vulnerable. Also, are my DAS pads tough enough to tackle those swirls?

  8. #8
    DEEP & WET J.J.'s Avatar
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    I would start with the least aggressive polish and pad combo I could find. This is a general rule but I utilize the concept even more when working on exotics (not that I do, but would).



    I wouldn`t hesitate to begin with FP II and a green pad. See what that does for you and move up in polish as necessary. Some of those scratches will not be removed with FP II but the shine will definintley be replinished. You can go back and treat the other areas more aggressively.



    JJ

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by J.J.
    I would start with the least aggressive polish and pad combo I could find. This is a general rule but I utilize the concept even more when working on exotics (not that I do, but would).



    I wouldn`t hesitate to begin with FP II and a green pad. See what that does for you and move up in polish as necessary. Some of those scratches will not be removed with FP II but the shine will definintley be replinished. You can go back and treat the other areas more aggressively.



    JJ


    Well, that`s why I started with the paint Cleanser, and it definately helped with the shine, but did not remove many scratches...

  10. #10

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    Just watch those corners by the ends of the hood by the bumper and headlights. Every 348 that has come into my shop has been burnt there (not by me-I swear). Tape them off. The ones that I`ve worked on have not been cleared. By the way..that leather looks really good for an old Ferrari. Also, taking off the grill by the taillights is fairly easy and makes polishing the lights a breeze.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by jp2175
    Just watch those corners by the ends of the hood by the bumper and headlights. Every 348 that has come into my shop has been burnt there (not by me-I swear). Tape them off. The ones that I`ve worked on have not been cleared. By the way..that leather looks really good for an old Ferrari. Also, taking off the grill by the taillights is fairly easy and makes polishing the lights a breeze.


    Thanks for the help...any good products you recommend?

  12. #12
    Forza Auto Salon David Fermani's Avatar
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    Is it just the pictures, or is the front bumper cover a completely different shade of black than the rest of the car? I didn`t think Ferrari painted their pieces at separate facilities. I never noticed my friends white Testarossa having that much varience.
    Metro Detroit`s leader in cleaning, preserving & perfecting fine automobiles!

  13. #13

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    The interior looks pretty good at least-the center console plastic still looks good. On Texas Ferraris, it sort of melts and gets real sticky if they are parked in the sun.



    Optimum/Menzerna should do a good job on the paint, assuming proper pad selection and PC technique. It also assumes the deeper defects are correctable.
    www.scottwax.com

    Certified Opti-Coat Pro/Pro 3 installer

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by OCKlasse
    Thanks for the help...any good products you recommend?




    Everyone, obviously has their preferences, but this is what I`d do.



    If you are comfortable with a wheel, use Technicians Choice (ECP) micro glaze swirl remover (obviously after proper prep) and then wax. This will not get out scratches that you can see under a flourecent light, but outside, it`ll be fine.



    If you must get it perfect under flourcents, go with 3M Rubbing compound on your wool, followed with their foam pad polishing glaze on a black foam pad, then wax (be CAREFUL with those edges and I`d recommend getting a paint meter and making sure you have enough there to cut). Be ready to rewax or reglaze as buff marks show. Eventually, you`ll cover them.



    If you aren`t comfortable with a wheel, I hate to recommend Griot`s stuff, but try his polishing system (2 and 3) with a random orbital. I wouldn`t use his best of show wax, as I didn`t like it and had to repolish. Use whatever final wax you are comfortable with. His system is good enough for someone who doesn`t want to polish with a high speed wheel and it won`t burn.



    Post pics when you do whatever it is that you`ll do.

 

 

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