Where did I go wrong?

[ToyotaGuy23]

I ventured out today to see what I could do on my Toyota.



Here is what I did:



1) Wash / Dry



2) Clay



3) Meg Swirl Remover 2.0 (Sucked)



4) Meg Clear Coat Body Scrub (Rocked) :spot



5) TEC-562 Micro Glaze ("The Protector" brand for "professional" use only) X 2



6) Race Glaze (Acrylic Sealant) (Layerable) X 4 or 5



Towards the end of the Race Glaze portion, I decided to go out and see what I had done before the sun went down. What had I done? STREAKY, HAZY CRAP! I got out a clean, dry MF, and it took MAD pressure to remove, and it would only remove a finger-width or two at a time. Well, I decided the heck with this as it was getting dark, and took the car back home. I got out the buffer with a clean terry bonnet, and went over it a few times, slowly. Still no good! I was getting kind of worried, so I hit it with some QD, and the haziness came right off.



Any ideas on where I went wrong???

[imported_bpfoley]

In other threads it was mentioned that many synthetic waxes need cure time, it seems there wasn`t enough cure time between layers.

[Accumulator]

ToyotaGuy23- IMO your mistake was in not checking your work properly. Some of your products might`ve been incompatible or might`ve been improperly applied, and you didn`t notice until you had a major issue.



Sorry, can`t nail down the specifics as I don`t use the products in question, but I always do a *lot* of inspecting in the course of a job. That way if I run into a problem I catch it (and adjust what I`m doing) while it`s just a *little* problem.



It *does* sound like you tried to do a lot of stuff all in one go...

[ToyotaGuy23]

ToyotaGuy23- IMO your mistake was in not checking your work properly. Some of your products might`ve been incompatible or might`ve been improperly applied, and you didn`t notice until you had a major issue.



Sorry, can`t nail down the specifics as I don`t use the products in question, but I always do a *lot* of inspecting in the course of a job. That way if I run into a problem I catch it (and adjust what I`m doing) while it`s just a *little* problem.



It *does* sound like you tried to do a lot of stuff all in one go...

The Race Glaze just doesn`t come off like I want it to.







I just have to QD between layers.



Should I top the sealant with NXT or should I top NXT with the sealant?



Thanks for your help!

[sQuashed]

A polish sealant? I couldnt imagine..... I would think that both NXT and that stuff would remove eachother.

[aaron33]

Swirl remover 2.0 is too mild to remove medium to heavy swirls. I would use it only for marring!



For your Race Glaze, is it compatible with the Micro Glaze? Did you buff off the Race Glaze before applyig the next layer on top?

[ToyotaGuy23]

Swirl remover 2.0 is too mild to remove medium to heavy swirls. I would use it only for marring!

I don`t think I will use this as a paperweight.

For your Race Glaze, is it compatible with the Micro Glaze?

The guy selling it said it would be fine.

Did you buff off the Race Glaze before applyig the next layer on top?

Yes. I believe the Race Glaze needs time to cure and really dry to a haze. I think I may have rushed a little, and instead of buffing off into a powder, it more like hazed on.



I`m going to make the best of this situation, but next time I will get some more PROVEN stuff. Menzerna comes to mind, maybe some more.....



What`s good for Black with lots of METALLIC to make it POP????

[Accumulator]

Best way to get metallics to pop is to prep them perfectly so the light reflects instead of refracts and to use "clean" products that are as close to optically clear as possible. So, generally speaking, no glazes and not many products total. My faves are (after all marring is removed) 1Z Pro MP topped with UPP. But the Pro version of MP is supposedly getting hard to find.



I`d be surprised if a product that`s supposed to "clean" is something you want to use over a glaze. Just doesn`t sound compatible huh? You know, the glaze sits on the paint filling tiny imperfections in the paint`s surface. If you use a product that cleans it`d more than likely clean the glaze right off the paint (see, you don`t need to be a detailing expert, you just gotta think about what`s going on ). Remember that people selling products might have a different agenda than you do and in my experience most people selling this stuff in stores don`t know much (I know, that`s quite a generalization ).

[ToyotaGuy23]

Best way to get metallics to pop is to prep them perfectly so the light reflects instead of refracts and to use "clean" products that are as close to optically clear as possible. So, generally speaking, no glazes and not many products total. My faves are (after all marring is removed) 1Z Pro MP topped with UPP. But the Pro version of MP is supposedly getting hard to find.



I`d be surprised if a product that`s supposed to "clean" is something you want to use over a glaze. Just doesn`t sound compatible huh? You know, the glaze sits on the paint filling tiny imperfections in the paint`s surface. If you use a product that cleans it`d more than likely clean the glaze right off the paint (see, you don`t need to be a detailing expert, you just gotta think about what`s going on ). Remember that people selling products might have a different agenda than you do and in my experience most people selling this stuff in stores don`t know much (I know, that`s quite a generalization ).

See, I know! how do you really TRUST the SALESMAN?

[Accumulator]

.. how do you really TRUST the SALESMAN?

Heh heh, I don`t have much trust for them at all myself...too bad, it really is a shame but that`s just been my experience