How do I protect new paint?

**ViperBlueVenge** · 04-24-2006, 10:18 AM

My car is getting painted this weekend and I wanted to know what to do after it gets out. Im not allowed to wax it for 90 days but is there anything I can put on that will protect the finish but still allow the paint to cure?

**carnut00** · 04-24-2006, 10:30 AM

I heard FK2180 or megs #80, #7 will work

**Accumulator** · 04-24-2006, 10:34 AM

I use Meg`s #5. Note that the #80 contains mild abrasives which you might not want/need; I`ve had fresh paint that was too soft to use #80 on (nasty micromarring).

Any of the Meg`s Pure Polishes will work (#3/#5/#7/#81/Deep Crystal Step #2), also 3M IGH and Mothers Glaze.

**wytstang** · 04-24-2006, 10:34 AM

I would just leave it be to be honest with you, new paint has a pretty good surface tension so it will bead like there`s wax/sealant on there. Ever look at a new cars paint surface after a shower, it beads pretty well. Just wash it regularly and QD in between, I`m no pro but if they say don`t wax I would I would just wait wouldn`t want to paint it twice. .02

**Thomas Dekany** · 04-24-2006, 03:21 PM

make sure to check the paint under proper lighting before you take delivery of it. The shop may try to throw in swirl city at no charge.

**ViperBlueVenge** · 04-24-2006, 03:45 PM

Well my brother is actually the painter at the body shop its getting done at so I dont have to worry about swirls because Im going to be there. But Im going to give it a month or so without anything on it and then maybe Ill put on some #7 or something. Thanks everyone.

**Accumulator** · 04-24-2006, 05:45 PM

Originally Posted by ViperBlueVenge

But Im going to give it a month or so without anything on it and then maybe Ill put on some #7 or something..

If you`re gonna drive it I`d put the #7 on after the first wash. Being nonabrasive and paintable (let alone fresh paint safe) it won`t hurt anything as long as you apply/buff it using really soft materials that won`t mar the paint on their own. The #7 will at least provide a little protection against stuff like waterspots and the like.

**Imatk** · 04-24-2006, 05:50 PM

Shouldn`t take a month to cure man... unless you live in the arctic

I would say a couple weeks and you should be fine to put wax, sealant etc. on there.

**ViperBlueVenge** · 04-24-2006, 06:30 PM

Well then Ill do that. I just wanted to make sure that I wasnt going to mess it up. Ill make sure to get pics for you guys when its done. Its getting painted Viper GTS Blue Pearl.

**Accumulator** · 04-25-2006, 09:43 AM

Originally Posted by Imatk

Shouldn`t take a month to cure man... unless you live in the arctic

I would say a couple weeks and you should be fine to put wax, sealant etc. on there.

We really need a sticky about fresh repaints. I oughta at least save the following somewhere so I can cut-n-paste it as I seem to post it every week. That`s not really a rant as I`d rather repost than have somebody end up with super-soft paint.

Aftermarket paint (i.e., "repaints") will continue to outgas/cure for months, you can even smell it. I`ve had literally *dozens* of cars painted over the last 30 years (many different types/technologies of paint) and I`ve had almost all of the jobs baked- they all behaved the same way from `76 to last year`s repair on my MPV. It continues to get harder for at least 2 months in a very noticeable way, as in, you have to change the products/methods you use to accommodate the increased hardness (sometimes as extreme as going from fix-it-by-hand to need-a-rotary). If you wax/seal too soon it won`t reach its maximum potential hardness (no, it won`t cloud up, bubble, or peel off, it just doesn`t get hard).

When MirrorFinishMan recently contacted all the major paint manufacturers, they *all* said the same thing: two-four months before you wax/seal, with most saying at least three.

**ViperBlueVenge** · 04-25-2006, 10:28 AM

Thanks Accumulator. I know not to seal it for awhile (in this case 90 days). I was just wondering if there was any way to protect it from etching, water spots, etc. Like I said, Ill wait to do it but Ill make sure to wash frequently. Is it ok to use a QD like FK425?

**Accumulator** · 04-25-2006, 11:35 AM

I dunno for sure about the FK 425 (good stuff BTW) but I probably wouldn`t risk it (hey, I`m cautious

).

I just use Meg`s #5 myself, at last it`s a little something even if you do have to redo it after every wash. At least the #5`s so easy (much more so than #7) that redoing it isn`t a big deal. Not like a glaze will protect against the worst bird-bomb, but better than nothing. Of course the best thing is to park it for a while after the paintjob, but that`s not always feasible.

**ViperBlueVenge** · 04-25-2006, 04:49 PM

Yeah its going to be my DD as soon as I get the interior done so It wont be able to sit. It is garage kept though so thats a plus. Does it matter that its a single stage paint? Should I push for a BC/CC? And can SS paint be clear coated? Its my brother doing this so I can negotiate with him.

**Accumulator** · 04-26-2006, 10:14 AM

Yeah its going to be my DD... Does it matter that its a single stage paint? Should I push for a BC/CC? And can SS paint be clear coated?

Generally it would call for completely different types of paint- b/c isn`t just ss with clear over top, it`s totally different color coat and a different type of clear from what they used in the old days; they`re made to work together.

Much as I like some single stages, IMO you oughta get basecoat/clear especially for a driver. I currently have two ss metallic cars (mostly factory paint on both) and it`s *not* the way to go with metallics/pearls if you have the choice. ss metallic is fragile in a number of ways and you really have to pamper it. It`s a royal pain to spot in properly too, especially stuff larger than stone chips. Since you have the choice (and you`re worried about some weird "orginal type paint" for concours reasons) you oughta go with the best technology on the market, and that`s basecoat/clear. Most (but not all) ss is simply cheap paint for the Earl Scheib type paintjobs.

When it comes to brands of paint, I`m sold on Spies-Hecker (used on Audis). My repainted areas are *almost* as good hardness/looks/etc. wise as the factory paint. Dunno if they offer your chosed color though. Not like there aren`t a lot of other good paints on the market, but don`t buy something cheap- buy quality, it really does matter.

Actually, it comes to mind that pearls are often three or even four step paints. And in my experience (Audi Pearl White) you can *NEVER* repair them satisfactorily. Might wanna give that a little thought, not that I`m familiar with your chosen color (just going by the name).

**ViperBlueVenge** · 04-26-2006, 12:17 PM

Thank you Im quoting this and showing it to my fater because he didnt believe me that it should be 2 stage and went ahead and got SS PPG paint off of eBay or something to save money. Then he said that I could CC over it and it`d be fine. I told him that I would spend the money on Bc/Cc (especially since its at cost) and be happy but he messed up and got that paint. I think Im going to hold off on the respray for another week and try and get Bc/Cc paint. The paint my brothers shop uses is Standox by the way. Thank you very much for posting that, it finally proves what I was trying to tell him all along.