My car is getting painted this weekend and I wanted to know what to do after it gets out. Im not allowed to wax it for 90 days but is there anything I can put on that will protect the finish but still allow the paint to cure?
My car is getting painted this weekend and I wanted to know what to do after it gets out. Im not allowed to wax it for 90 days but is there anything I can put on that will protect the finish but still allow the paint to cure?
I heard FK2180 or megs #80, #7 will work
I use Meg`s #5. Note that the #80 contains mild abrasives which you might not want/need; I`ve had fresh paint that was too soft to use #80 on (nasty micromarring).
Any of the Meg`s Pure Polishes will work (#3/#5/#7/#81/Deep Crystal Step #2), also 3M IGH and Mothers Glaze.
I would just leave it be to be honest with you, new paint has a pretty good surface tension so it will bead like there`s wax/sealant on there. Ever look at a new cars paint surface after a shower, it beads pretty well. Just wash it regularly and QD in between, I`m no pro but if they say don`t wax I would I would just wait wouldn`t want to paint it twice. .02
"Life is not measured by the breathes we take, but by the moments that take our breathes away" :punk:
make sure to check the paint under proper lighting before you take delivery of it. The shop may try to throw in swirl city at no charge.
Well my brother is actually the painter at the body shop its getting done at so I dont have to worry about swirls because Im going to be there. But Im going to give it a month or so without anything on it and then maybe Ill put on some #7 or something. Thanks everyone.
Originally Posted by ViperBlueVenge
If you`re gonna drive it I`d put the #7 on after the first wash. Being nonabrasive and paintable (let alone fresh paint safe) it won`t hurt anything as long as you apply/buff it using really soft materials that won`t mar the paint on their own. The #7 will at least provide a little protection against stuff like waterspots and the like.
Shouldn`t take a month to cure man... unless you live in the arctic
I would say a couple weeks and you should be fine to put wax, sealant etc. on there.
Well then Ill do that. I just wanted to make sure that I wasnt going to mess it up. Ill make sure to get pics for you guys when its done. Its getting painted Viper GTS Blue Pearl.
Originally Posted by Imatk
We really need a sticky about fresh repaints. I oughta at least save the following somewhere so I can cut-n-paste it as I seem to post it every week. That`s not really a rant as I`d rather repost than have somebody end up with super-soft paint.
Aftermarket paint (i.e., "repaints") will continue to outgas/cure for months, you can even smell it. I`ve had literally *dozens* of cars painted over the last 30 years (many different types/technologies of paint) and I`ve had almost all of the jobs baked- they all behaved the same way from `76 to last year`s repair on my MPV. It continues to get harder for at least 2 months in a very noticeable way, as in, you have to change the products/methods you use to accommodate the increased hardness (sometimes as extreme as going from fix-it-by-hand to need-a-rotary). If you wax/seal too soon it won`t reach its maximum potential hardness (no, it won`t cloud up, bubble, or peel off, it just doesn`t get hard).
When MirrorFinishMan recently contacted all the major paint manufacturers, they *all* said the same thing: two-four months before you wax/seal, with most saying at least three.
Thanks Accumulator. I know not to seal it for awhile (in this case 90 days). I was just wondering if there was any way to protect it from etching, water spots, etc. Like I said, Ill wait to do it but Ill make sure to wash frequently. Is it ok to use a QD like FK425?
I dunno for sure about the FK 425 (good stuff BTW) but I probably wouldn`t risk it (hey, I`m cautious ).
I just use Meg`s #5 myself, at last it`s a little something even if you do have to redo it after every wash. At least the #5`s so easy (much more so than #7) that redoing it isn`t a big deal. Not like a glaze will protect against the worst bird-bomb, but better than nothing. Of course the best thing is to park it for a while after the paintjob, but that`s not always feasible.
Yeah its going to be my DD as soon as I get the interior done so It wont be able to sit. It is garage kept though so thats a plus. Does it matter that its a single stage paint? Should I push for a BC/CC? And can SS paint be clear coated? Its my brother doing this so I can negotiate with him.
Yeah its going to be my DD... Does it matter that its a single stage paint? Should I push for a BC/CC? And can SS paint be clear coated?
Generally it would call for completely different types of paint- b/c isn`t just ss with clear over top, it`s totally different color coat and a different type of clear from what they used in the old days; they`re made to work together.
Much as I like some single stages, IMO you oughta get basecoat/clear especially for a driver. I currently have two ss metallic cars (mostly factory paint on both) and it`s *not* the way to go with metallics/pearls if you have the choice. ss metallic is fragile in a number of ways and you really have to pamper it. It`s a royal pain to spot in properly too, especially stuff larger than stone chips. Since you have the choice (and you`re worried about some weird "orginal type paint" for concours reasons) you oughta go with the best technology on the market, and that`s basecoat/clear. Most (but not all) ss is simply cheap paint for the Earl Scheib type paintjobs.
When it comes to brands of paint, I`m sold on Spies-Hecker (used on Audis). My repainted areas are *almost* as good hardness/looks/etc. wise as the factory paint. Dunno if they offer your chosed color though. Not like there aren`t a lot of other good paints on the market, but don`t buy something cheap- buy quality, it really does matter.
Actually, it comes to mind that pearls are often three or even four step paints. And in my experience (Audi Pearl White) you can *NEVER* repair them satisfactorily. Might wanna give that a little thought, not that I`m familiar with your chosen color (just going by the name).
Thank you Im quoting this and showing it to my fater because he didnt believe me that it should be 2 stage and went ahead and got SS PPG paint off of eBay or something to save money. Then he said that I could CC over it and it`d be fine. I told him that I would spend the money on Bc/Cc (especially since its at cost) and be happy but he messed up and got that paint. I think Im going to hold off on the respray for another week and try and get Bc/Cc paint. The paint my brothers shop uses is Standox by the way. Thank you very much for posting that, it finally proves what I was trying to tell him all along.
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