Defining the Poorboys abrasive line

**RAG** · 12-08-2005, 09:04 AM

I just ordered and received the Poorboys SSR line of polishes to try out and was hoping some Autopians could help me figure out their respective applications. I will be using these products with both a rotary and PC. My assumptions are as follows (please correct my thinking where necessary):

Am I correct in assuming none of the SSR polishes have fillers?

Have heard SSR 1, 2, and 2.5 seem to be better suited to the PC than the rotary? Anyone else feel this way?

SSR 1 - Assuming very mild finishing polish somewhere in the order of FPII. I`m hoping this product breaks down very quickly with a PC, allowing me to do a quick "once-over" polish with the PC without having to wait oodels of time for it to break down like OPP. I will also use with rotary as final, halogram-free polish step.

SSR 2 - Assuming a medium strength polish similar as OPP and somewhere between FPII and IP? Can this be used with a PC as a last-step polish on dark of light-colored cars? What about as a last step with a rotary? Does the product break down quickly?

SSR 2.5 - Assuming very strong polish/light compound that is a bit stronger than IP and somewhere in the realm of DACP and OPC. Heard it is good for defect removal with PC, but I usually use a rotary for defect removal so I`m not sure how it will fit into my arsenal. Can it be used as a last step with PC on white? What results can I expect with a rotary?

SSR 3 - I don`t know what to expect. How agressive is this product?

Thanks again Autopians.

**White95Max** · 12-08-2005, 09:25 AM

SSR2 is easily used as a last-step-polish on any color. SSR2.5 can leave an LSP-ready finish on dark colors as well. It breaks down and finishes very well. I haven`t used it yet via rotary.

SSR2.5 works great via PC or rotary. It is a pretty strong polish, good for removing moderate swirls.

SSR3 feels gritty to the touch. It`s pretty strong stuff.

**imported_Neothin** · 12-08-2005, 12:33 PM

I`ve noticed that the SSR`s break down and dust up rather quickly even on a PC. Because of this, I don`t know how well they would fare on a rotary. I would assume that the heat from the rotary would cause them to flash and dust up even faster than they do on the PC. But hey, I could be wrong, I`ve never used them on a rotary. Rotary/SSR users chime in here?

SSR2 could be used as a one step polish for light to moderate swirling. If you end up using SSR2.5 or SSR3, I would recommend that you follow up with SSR to remove the microscratches.

**imported_COBRyan** · 12-08-2005, 01:15 PM

Originally Posted by Neothin

I`ve noticed that the SSR`s break down and dust up rather quickly even on a PC. Because of this, I don`t know how well they would fare on a rotary. I would assume that the heat from the rotary would cause them to flash and dust up even faster than they do on the PC. But hey, I could be wrong, I`ve never used them on a rotary. Rotary/SSR users chime in here?

You are right. The SSR`s (in my experience of course) break down far too quickly with the rotary even at lower RPM. Dusting isn`t too bad. I have to use a lot of this product when I use a rotary. For some reason, the PC seems to remove the swirls better with 2.5 than a rotary. It took me forever it seemed to cut into the swirls on my Mustang with 2.5 and the rotary, but the PC only took a few quick passes. :think:

I prefer Meguiar`s DACP with the rotary and 2.5 with the PC.

Originally Posted by Neothin

SSR2 could be used as a one step polish for light to moderate swirling. If you end up using SSR2.5 or SSR3, I would recommend that you follow up with SSR to remove the microscratches.

2.5 has always broken down nicely with the PC and left a finish that didn`t require the use of a finer polish. I have used 2.5 many times by itself right before going to my sealant or wax. Although, I can do the same with DACP. Everyones` experience will be different though!

**TGates** · 12-08-2005, 03:08 PM

Originally Posted by COBRyan/

2.5 has always broken down nicely with the PC and left a finish that didn`t require the use of a finer polish. I have used 2.5 many times by itself right before going to my sealant or wax. Although, I can do the same with DACP. Everyones` experience will be different though!

:werd:

I have gone straight from SSR2.5 via PC to NXT with no problems.

**Porkanbeans** · 12-08-2005, 03:36 PM

I`ve had great experiences with SSR 2.5. Breaks down pretty fast and leaves a finish good enough to put your LSP over.

**Prometheus** · 12-08-2005, 04:27 PM

It kind of depends with 2.5 if you can skip straight to the LSP. I know on my car, I have black relatively hard paint and I almost always need to follow it with 1 before I like the way it looks. After 2.5 on black there is usually some micromarring left. I really like them both though, have had great success with them. Hardest thing to learn is how much to use. Whatever your initial gut reaction is for amount, basically cut it in half and you`ll probably be good to go. Best of luck to you.

**imported_Neothin** · 12-08-2005, 09:38 PM

I guess I didn`t work the 2.5 long enough then. I always was left with a good amount of light swirls and haze left over :nixweiss

**Mikeman** · 12-08-2005, 09:52 PM

I love SSR3 for the heavy work. It leaves noticeable hazing; but this is easily removed with SSR1, a polishing pad, speed 5, moderate pressure, and slow arm movement. SSR 2.5 seems to finish out almost as good as SSR1 for me when used with a polishing pad. It ain`t no SSR3 though, not even with a cutting pad. It just can`t do the heavy work as fast. With a light cutting pad, 2.5 needs a quick hit with SSR1 IMO.

Mikeman out.

**HomicidalSloth** · 12-09-2005, 12:51 AM

SSR 2.5 is the product I find myself using the most often. Removes most defects without removing too much clear, easy to work with. If the paint just needs cleaning, I usually use SSR 1.

SSR 3 is pretty much a super-heavy compound, designed to remove haze/lines left over from wetsanding with 2000 grit. You`ll only need this for heavy-duty stuff. I use it by hand on rough scratchs, and for spot-removing paint overspray by hand.

**Mikeman** · 12-10-2005, 07:13 PM

I think, when describing these polishes we should mention what type of buffer we are using. My comments above are based on use with a PC. If you want to buff out fairly heavy scratches and swirls in a reasonable amount of time with a PC, SSR 3 and a cutting pad is a good solution. SSR 2.5 just doesn`t quite cut it on neglected, abused paint. I find myself having to hit panels a second time with 2.5. This just about doubles total polishing time.