Ok, I`m in... I just placed my order with Santa. Does anyone have pictures of this thing cleaning an engine, door jam, or rims? I`d really like to see how it handles brake dust.
Thanks
Ok, I`m in... I just placed my order with Santa. Does anyone have pictures of this thing cleaning an engine, door jam, or rims? I`d really like to see how it handles brake dust.
Thanks
Originally Posted by MorBid
:werd: Now, after reading this post, I want a steam cleaner.
What the hell, I just placed an order for one. I have the small kind with the pistol grip but it`s not that great. I researched this unit online and it sells for $199.
So for $57.00 total, I figured why not.
I would recommend you guys use distilled water to prevent lime scale build up. Just my $.02. You can get a gallon of it for like $0.79
Seth
Originally Posted by Spilchy
Good point I do the same w/my humidifier too.
Originally Posted by MorBid
You know, when I had a humidifier that produced a warm mist, the tap water ruined it in less than a week.
With a cold mist humidifier, I haven`t had that problem with tap water. I also use a teaspoon of some liquid that prevents bacteria, mold and mildew buildup. It preserves the filter much longer. I wash out every few days so I haven`t had that lime scale issue.
Sorry, back on topic
Seth
Spilchy my man once again your right on track. I have a Kenmore that I brought from Sears and they sell bottles of that stuff your talking about.
Between the filtered tap warter (Waterpick thingy on the kitchen facuet) and using that stuff I never have buildup of any kind and the filters do last longer.
i swear i was reading my manual for this and it specified to use tap water. i`ll have to check again
I got mine! I`ve been playing with it. The manual says tap or distilled (demineralized) water. It says you`ll just have to descale more often if you use tap water.
The machine is fairly rugged IMO, except for the steam concentrator nozzle. You`ll want to set the thing down gently when you`re done using it.
The steam volume is infinitely adjustable with the trigger. Once you clear the moisture out of the line it doesn`t spit water. After a few seconds at full volume you get a nice "dry" jet of steam. Low volume also does not spit once the line is cleared.
The temperature is about that of hot tap water at 2-3 inches, depending on the steam volume you`re using. At full steam volume I can hold my hand about 3 inches from the tip. Temp increases quickly as you close this distance.
For engines, I will try low volume at about 1" distance. This should give high heat with little moisture.
The supplied brushes are very stiff. I don`t think I`ll be using them much, except to wrap a towel around them for work on fabrics.
If you do really dirty cars, this thing will save a lot of time. I see it being most valuable for door, trunk, and hood jams and sills, any crevices and engines. I think engines can be safely cleaned with this machine.
Attain perfection! Remove more clearcoat today!
Mine was delivered and sitting on my porch :woot2: :nervous2:
I dont think anyone would notice if I stepped out early from work would they? Naaaaaa...
Originally Posted by Mikeman
I hope you can post some before and after pictures on a dirty engine or brake wheel dust. When i tried mine on the engine and wheels it didn`t impress me at all. I was trying to work some of that typical caked on black dirt on an engines brake fluid reservoir and coolant reservoir. It really didn`t work well on that IMO. Other areas the same. Yes it took the dirt off after holding it really close, but only a small area at a time. Way too time consuming for me.
I have no experience with steam cleaners so maybe I was doing something wrong.
I also went to a wheel with really light brake dust and it didn`t impress either. I`m like this is going nowwhere and will add time and effort.
We really need some one to test this puppy on typical dirty & greasy engines, door sills, caked on brake dust wheels and post comments and pictures. Grout is one thing grease in engine bays and door sills is a different game.
We really need some good hard auto detailing comments and pictures, I`m not convinced this will work well on engines and save time and effort.
Among several of the other goofy (to me, at least) directions in the manual, it says to NOT use distilled water....I would recommend you guys use distilled water to prevent lime scale build up. Just my $.02. You can get a gallon of it for like $0.79
I just washed a load of dirty dishes with the unit. At low steam volume (pressure) you must hold the tip very close to the object being cleaned, and work a small area for awhile. At full pressure it works much better; but you still have to get within an inch to get the heat and pressure to do it`s job without dwelling in one spot too long.
For this reason, I prefer a pressure washer where possible. Fender wells, tires, wheels and anything with a lot of surface area would be cleaned faster with a pressure washer. However, cleaning cracks and crevices where a high volume of water is not desireable (jams, motors, interior stuff), is where this unit will shine.
I don`t think it will save me much time over manually wiping down an engine; but it will do a much more thorough job in the same amount of time, and with fewer scraped knuckles.
EDIT: After playing with the steamer a little more, I`ve decided I could run full pressure in an engine bay. The reason is that the user has pinpoint control over where that pressure goes. It`s like a water pick. The steam that goes all over the place is not doing so with any pressure. I don`t think it could easily work into junction boxes, connections, etc..
Attain perfection! Remove more clearcoat today!
Originally Posted by Jeff Laughhunn
Actually it says in at least two places to use "tap or demineralized water". It says NOT to use vinegar to descale the machine. I wonder why not? Vinegar works fine in my coffee pot.
Attain perfection! Remove more clearcoat today!
I`ve recieved three units (two for the shop and one for a friend). We are usually working on two cars at a time, and in just a short week, we find ourselve `fighting` for the Piccolo!
We use distilled water. We are still learning the strengths and applications of the unit, but it has already earned a spot in our arsenal. And certainly, it will lessen the amount of chemicals we purchase...
I`m most impressed with the ability to clean, disinfect, and deoderize AC/Defroster ductwork. (Heat kills bugs!) Makes *very* quick work of door and trunk jams, footwells and pedals, console and dash areas. I`ve not seen efficiencies in general cleaning of the engine bay - degreaser still works best, but it can assist with stubborn areas. Haven`t tried it on wheels yet...
Haven`t had much success on windows, maybe we don`t have the technique yet...
Sure makes quick work of removing stuff from around badges & insignia!
All in all, for ~US$60, it is a great timesver, and in my business, it is all about time.
Now I`m looking at the `pro` models (US$1450!) Just looking... :spot
"If it was easy, everybody`d be doing it."
www.jimmybuffit.com
Originally Posted by Jimmy Buffit
Good ideas on the brake pedals, badges :thx .
Like you said time is very important to me too :wavey . I was hoping to find a tool that is very good, quick and extra safe on engines (along with door jambs that are impossible to get to in the tight spots). I just don`t want to gamble with pressure washers and strong degreasing chemicals in todays engines :nervous2: . Adding a really well done engine cleaning to a full detail is my ultimate goal, I think it really adds value to the customer and makes your work even that more appreciated bringing repeat business and references.
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