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  1. #1

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    i gave my porter cable one more try to see if it gets rif of all the swirls. well it didnt. i actually did it oustide in the sun to make sure they were gone, but most were still theree. i used the yellow pad with the menzera intense polish and the results were not good. i dont think its the machines fault or anything. maybe i just need a harsher prodduct to use with the machine. the color of the car is red so maybe i do need a harsher product. please post with some alternatives that i can use with the porter cable.

  2. #2
    Hooked For Life Bill D's Avatar
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    You may also need to make more passes. If you clear coat is hard, you can literally spend hours with a PC. The PC often requires quite a bit of time to correct defets, more time than many expect when they initially use it; epseically with a hard clear coat.



    Another option that could bring better/faster results is using a 4" pad. But still don`t expect particularly fast results.
    Treat it like it`s the only one in the world.

  3. #3

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    Originally posted by borisshnitkin

    .. maybe i just need a harsher prodduct to use with the machine. the color of the car is red so maybe i do need a harsher product. please post with some alternatives that i can use with the porter cable.


    A Bill D said, some clears are very hard to correct with the PC, no matter what you use. Some, like Audis, can be beyond the PC`s abilities (I once spent several hours on an A6 hood with PC/wool/FCRC with virtually no improvement).



    Definitely use a 4" pad.



    Check out the Hi-Temp line at



    TOL

  4. #4
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    I used Menzerna IP and FPII on one of my black cars that had a lot of swirl marks on it and I would say most of them seem to come out. I followed this thread: http://autopia.org/forums/showthread...threadid=24209



    This was my first time using a PC with IP & FPII and here are some before and after pics:

    http://autopia.org/forums/showthread...threadid=24209



    If you still think that it is the IP not bringing the result you want you can always do a search on Poorboy`s SSR`s. They seem to be very popular and can be used in the sun.

  5. #5

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    i have the 6.5" pads, i dont think i need the smaller ones. i currently have a yellow,white,black and red pads. i might go and try poorboys 2.5 polish. if it helps i drive a red 2000 pontiac transam

  6. #6

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    [QUOTE]Originally posted by Bill D

    [B]You may also need to make more passes. If you clear coat is hard, you can literally spend hours with a PC. The PC often requires quite a bit of time to correct defets, more time than many expect when they initially use it; epseically with a hard clear coat.



    Yeah what he said. If that does`nt work step up to the Powergloss. BTW I think I just answered this same question from you in another post. Are you cross posting? :nono

  7. #7

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    Originally posted by borisshnitkin

    i have the 6.5" pads, i dont think i need the smaller ones...


    OK, your call, but no way can *I* remove any significant marring with the larger pads. With the 6.5 and larger pads the PC will just "jiggle" when you apply any pressure to it. With the 4" ones it keeps doing the D/A motion.

  8. #8
    Sun Blinded Detailer Mochamanz1's Avatar
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    Originally posted by borisshnitkin

    . i actually did it oustide in the sun to make sure they were gone, but most were still theree.


    Forgive me if I missed something, but is it possible that polishing in the sun could cause your polish to dry too fast, and not give the product time to"break down"? Try misting the the surface with a 50/50 mix of ISA (isopropyl alchohol) and water, just enough to maintain moisture at a constant. Avoid over wetting, too much is just as difficult to use as not enough moisture.



    I hope I understood you correctly in the first place, and that this helps.:xyxthumbs
    Prep is everything .. The rest is the window looking in....

  9. #9

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    yellow pad and 3m fine cut should get rid of almost anything if used properly
    Black Mustang GT

  10. #10

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    Had to get me those 4" pads and plate, didn`t have those in the arsenal. I have the scrub brush for the PC but I never think to use it. Don`t really need it with the Protein stuff I use now from TOL, since I use GR`s method for carpets.
    "I think my blood is a Carnauba Prototype"

  11. #11

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    thanxs alot guys for all ur help. im going to take ur advice and try it out, , lets all hope it turns out fine. about the Powergloss, isnt it gloss and not a polish?

  12. #12

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    Originally posted by LouisanaJeeper

    yellow pad and 3m fine cut should get rid of almost anything if used properly


    If that doesn`t do it you need a rotary.

  13. #13

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    Originally posted by Accumulator

    A Bill D said, some clears are very hard to correct with the PC, no matter what you use. Some, like Audis, can be beyond the PC`s abilities (I once spent several hours on an A6 hood with PC/wool/FCRC with virtually no improvement).



    Makes you wonder how paint that hard can get marred.

  14. #14

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    Originally posted by borisshnitkin

    about the Powergloss, isnt it gloss and not a polish?
    No, it`s a compound with twice the cutting ability of IP...

  15. #15
    Sun Blinded Detailer Mochamanz1's Avatar
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    Originally posted by borisshnitkin

    thanxs alot guys for all ur help. im going to take ur advice and try it out, , lets all hope it turns out fine. about the Powergloss, isnt it gloss and not a polish?


    Power gloss is a polish that is twice as dense in particle quantity as IP. The particles are the same size, so you are cutting faster, but not swirling as you would with an aggressive polish that utilizes larger particle size to cut faster. Also the particles are the same type as in the IP, and they diminish the same way.... Good stuff if you need it.:xyxthumbs
    Prep is everything .. The rest is the window looking in....

 

 
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