Most aggressive compound for clearcoats

**termigator** · 03-31-2005, 07:21 AM

What is the most aggressive compound I can use without cutting through the clear coat? My wife`s gold Accord has been victimized by waterspot etching. I have removed the waterspots, but the etchings are pretty evident. I have used 3M Medium Cut Rubbing Compound on a yellow LC pad with my PC, but the etchings are still there. Is there anything I can use that is stronger? Any suggestions would be appreciated!

**a.k.a. Patrick** · 03-31-2005, 08:22 AM

SSR 3.0 rings a bell, as well as Clearkote Cutting Compound......

**Alfisti** · 03-31-2005, 08:41 AM

I`ve used Menzerna Power Gloss successfully.

It`s quite aggressive (more than #83) and leaves a decent finish.

**boywonder** · 03-31-2005, 08:46 AM

I agree with the Menzerna Power Gloss. But don`t forget about the medium and heavy cut rubbing compounds by 3M and Meguiar`s.

Edit: Just noticed you used 3M medium cut RC.

**termigator** · 03-31-2005, 10:10 AM

3M Medium Cut is the heaviest I can find locally, except for the Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound paste. I tried that already on the trunk. Way too much hand rubbing! I want something I can use on the PC. Maybe I`ll try Power Gloss. I like the Menzerna stuff a lot. Would I be using this stuff on the yellow PC pad or do I need something more aggressive?

Thanks for the quick replies!

**termigator** · 03-31-2005, 10:12 AM

Originally posted by a.k.a. Patrick

SSR 3.0 rings a bell, as well as Clearkote Cutting Compound......

Are SSR 3.0 and CCC more aggressive than 3M`s Medium Cut?

**termigator** · 03-31-2005, 10:30 AM

Originally posted by PrinzII

I agree with the Menzerna Power Gloss. But don`t forget about the medium and heavy cut rubbing compounds by 3M and Meguiar`s.

Edit: Just noticed you used 3M medium cut RC.

Does Meguiar`s have something that is more aggressive than 3M Medium Cut. I was think about getting a sample of #21 from autodetailingsolutions.com to try out and they only seem to sell other Meguiar`s products. I`m still leaning towards Power Gloss, but I like to keep my options open.

**stevet** · 03-31-2005, 10:50 AM

Tarmigator,

Sounds like you are trying to do rotary work with a PC. Most of the compounds that have been suggested are made to be used with a rotary not a PC. Your water spot problem might be something you will have to live with. If they are through the clear to the base than no compound will fix that. I would be very careful using the products that have been suggested. You might end up with bigger problems than you started with.

**Tim Lingor** · 03-31-2005, 11:13 AM

Hey,

With the PC, the most aggressive product that Meguiar`s offers is #83 DACP. Products like #84 Compound Power Cleaner, and #85 Diamond Cut 2.0 are for the rotary buffer only.

Water etching can take 2 forms: 1. on the surface as in mineral deposits or 2. etched into the clear coat. Based on the products you have used so far, it appears your water marks fall into the #2 category which may require a rotary buffer to remove. While the PC is an excellent tool, it does not have the power to remove major defects. Further, if one goes too aggressive with the PC, the result may be a dulled down finish that may be difficult to correct without a rotary buffer.

Here is what I would try first: Meguiar`s ScratchX with a piece of cotton Terry towelling. REALLY work the product until it basically disappears. You may have to do this a few times over each etching. Then follow this with a couple of passes with #83 DACP and the PC set to speed 5. Work the product until the residue bascially is gone, but do not dry buff. This may take 3-5 minutes per 2`x2` area for the diminishing abrasives in the product to break down properly. If this does not do it, and it may not, the etching may be pretty deep and will require the use of a rotary buffer to remove.

Going through the CC can happen with any abrasive cleaning product. When you get into the real heavy compounds, it gets even easier to go through. And remember, if you go through .3-.5 mils of clear, your paint may suffer CC failure in the not-so-distant future. So caution on the level of aggressiveness of the product used as well as its frequnecy of use must be observed. Therefore, if the above does not remove the etching, it may be prudent to seek out a professional detailer with a rotary buffer rather than going more and more aggressive with the PC.

Tim

**J.J.** · 03-31-2005, 11:27 AM

Have you looked at the SSR 2.5. It can be used with the PC and is arguably one of the most aggressive compunds that can be used with PC

JJ

**termigator** · 03-31-2005, 12:17 PM

I already tried Scratch X. Barely did anything to it. I suspect I already exhausted my options with the PC. The problem is, I don`t know the first thing on how to find a professional detailer that can do this type of stuff.

**Accumulator** · 03-31-2005, 12:30 PM

I agree with the "doing rotary work by PC" comments. But if you just *have* to try something, look into the Hi-Temp products at TOL

I use aggressive stuff with a 4" pad when using it with the PC. Quite a bit more aggresssive than the larger pads.

But really, IMO you`re trying to do something that a) isn`t within the PC`s limits and b) probably isn`t a good idea anyway.

**Eliot Ness** · 03-31-2005, 02:19 PM

Originally posted by a.k.a. Patrick

SSR 3.0 rings a bell, as well as Clearkote Cutting Compound......

Patrick, are you saying the new Compound Moose is as aggressive as SSR3? That`s the only compound I see that ClearKote offers, and it didn`t sound like it was that aggressive.