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  1. #1

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    Here`s my situation. My friend has a 2003 Hyundai that she`s had for just under two years, in fact, this car is how I came to Autopia because I was a little out of the loop since my car was old...and we just couldn`t seem to get the proper protection on her new car.



    Her car has some acid rain spots. I`m not sure if these are from when the car was sitting on the dealer lot, or from the first year she had the car when we were figuring things out, or a continuing problem. :soscared:



    I`m not sure I completely buy the theory put forward by AutoInt that there is acid trapped in the paint that is continually eating it away, but, not wanting to take any chances, it seems a good idea, as part of a thorough spring cleaning to decon the car. Since I don`t think it needs the acid wash, since it`s smooth, does anyone see any problem with just using Step 1, then going right to Step 3? I have the FK system...when I bought it, I asked this question, and the :sosad FK rep gave me the :sosad "I`d use the whole system...the acid step opens the pores of the paint". Of course...I would want the pores opened by the alkaline step so it could get in there an neutralize the acid rain...but what do I know?



    Opinions?



    PS I really gotta check the pH on that FK Step 1.

  2. #2

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    Well, I`m not gonna comment on the "opening the pores of the paint". But...



    I`d use the acidic step. It won`t hurt anything and it`ll take care of some contamination that the alkaline step didn`t work on. It`ll also do more to "halt" the alkaline step than just rinsing will.



    It doesn`t take *that* much time/effort And it might help with any rust blooms or other such problems. Clay while the acidic stuff is dwelling.



    FWIW, I dunno how well these systems *really* work once the acid rain and other stuff have already done damage, but they sure don`t hurt anything when used infrequently. Use the whole system as designed.

  3. #3

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    Originally posted by Accumulator



    I`d use the acidic step. It won`t hurt anything and it`ll take care of some contamination that the alkaline step didn`t work on. It`ll also do more to "halt" the alkaline step than just rinsing will.

    Yeah, but, what "halts" the acid step?

  4. #4

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    The rinse and the neutral third step. The acid in ABC isn`t *nearly* as strong as I expected so I wouldn`t worry about it getting neutralized. But then that`s ABC not FK IMO it`s easy to get too about the whole "acid" thing.

  5. #5

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    My theory was the rinse and "neutral" third step would neutralize Step 1...just looking to save a little time...and not wanting to put any more acid back into the paint...if indeed it`s in there. BTW, the FK third step is just a neutral shampoo that they recommend for everyday washing...not sure if the ABC one is too.

  6. #6

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    Originally posted by Setec Astronomy

    My theory was the rinse and "neutral" third step would neutralize Step 1...just looking to save a little time...and not wanting to put any more acid back into the paint...if indeed it`s in there. BTW, the FK third step is just a neutral shampoo that they recommend for everyday washing...not sure if the ABC one is too.


    The third step of ABC is a reglur shampoo also. I woudn`t consider the acid in these sytems to be the same as the acid from the acid rain. Heh heh, spend the extra few minutes, you`re already doing a big job.

  7. #7
    The Old Grey Whistle Test togwt's Avatar
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    FWIW- most car wash concentrates are alkaline so they would neutrelize any `acids`.



    (Accumulator- no flames thus far for comparing these products, perhaps things have changed for the better on Autopia lately)

    JonM
    What gets overlooked too often is that one must be a student before becoming a teacher.

  8. #8
    I'll figure it out....
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    For a good cleaning before doing anything else, you can

    use step 1 and step 3. But to deal with contamination, use

    the whole system just as directed. The kit cannot correct

    paint etching once the acids/ mineral deposits already

    eat into the paint, but the kit can break the deposits loose

    and neutralize any acids still on the paint.

  9. #9

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    On the AutoInt system, you are supposed to use them together because the acid paint replaces the plasticizers(sp?) that are lost when using highly alkaline chemicals on the paint(also known as step 1).

 

 

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