#16 - Quick Removal?

[AdvonspaanDC5]

Probably haven`t been asked yet. And yes I did a search of about 15 pages and still didn`t find the answer which leads me to start this post.



Really simple, from what I read about S100. Is that you apply it to a panel, and remove it immediately and it will come off easy and the paint will be nicely waxed.



So my question is can you do the same with Meguiar`s #16? Like apply it and then immediately remove it? Or will that not work because it needs some sort of bonding process?



The best ways i`ve heard to use #16 was to either apply it very thin to the point where you need to look at it completely sideways or apply it to the whole car, then use a terry cloth to remove the excess and then use a microfiber.



The problem with that though is that I don`t have very good lighting for my garage and doing the removing excess with terry cloth thing seems like twice the amount of time.



So im curious if the S100 method would work the same for #16, because if it does. Then I can wax a full car in less than 10 minutes!



:bounce

[Richt]

Been trying some 16 myself a few times twice on one car, once on another used the wipe on wipe off s100 method. I know people say this 16 is more durable thanthe s100, but i find it goes on and no way comes off as easily as s100. I have been applying it the same way as s100 and after a over year of using s100, I think the 16 is going back on the shelf. Even using very light coats im getting a small amount of dusting too. Got none with 321s/s100 - Not impressed. In apperance terms on a a mid blue and light blue car i can see no difference to between s100 and the 16. Maybe the durabilty of the 16 is better but i will never know as i wax every week with s100 as it is as it is so easy. Im going to give the 16 one more chance on Friday when i finish my prep for this weeks show and thens if im still not happy its on the shelf with it.

[dgraupman]

Try putting it on with a PC. I "butter" it on a white pad, put the speed on 3.5, and it goes on easy and thin, and comes off with a MF very easily after it hazes over.



If you`re getting dusting, you`re putting way too much on.

[Accumulator]

I`ve found #16 can be used almost any way you like. I`ve used w-o-w-o ("P21S/Souveran-style" application) and it worked just fine. Maybe not quite the same durability you`d get if you let it set up longer, but it certainly didn`t have a *huge* effect on it either. This method works fine with Collinite, too, BTW.



But generally, I do like dgraupman- apply it with a PC (only I use speed 4-4.5), let haze, remove with MF (usually a MF bonnet on the PC/Cyclo).



RichPug306xsi- Heh heh, I had the exact *opposite* exerience. I tried P21s after years of using #16 and I didn`t care for the P21S



I too am sorta about the dusting with #16, I don`t get that. Maybe it`s because I`m doing it by machine most of the time, but I don`t remember getting it by hand either.



If you`re waxing every week and like the P21s better, no reason to keep struggling with the #16.

[Glossequation]

As one of the "longer" time users of #16 within the board, here are a few tips that I have found help me out:



1. DO NOT put it on too thick. It will haze white and be extremely difficult to remove, even with a shot of QD. I apply it so that I can barely see it on there.

2. Don`t let it haze too long. I find that doing two fenders and the hood, then going back over and removing in the order of the three panels is good.

3. Once you`ve finishing the first coat, let it cure for 1-2 days, re-wash your car and apply a 2nd thin coat. Adds some more depth and increases the already impressive durability of this product. It really is great stuff.

[TortoiseAWD]

If you can apply #16 by machine, by all means, do. I`ve found it difficult to get an extremely thin coat by hand, but with a PC, it`s a snap. If you can get the application thin enough, removal is pretty straightforward. Too thick, and you`ll be wishing you had Popeye`s forearms.



Tort

[Richt]

Not got the option off a buffer. The dusting is nothing major, but it does leave visable residue in places that i have never had with s100. IMHO its not as easy on or off as s100?

[spotter]

I appreciate the comments here as I have been wondering about #16. My S100 may run out this summer and I was considering #16 but I see no reason to after reading this. The S100 is so user friendly that durability is never an issue for me with S100 and it looks great without having to worry about staining trim, accumulating dust, or anything else. S100 and WOWO is about as good as it gets.

[imported_SouthernZ71]

Originally posted by blackcaraddict

1. DO NOT put it on too thick. It will haze white and be extremely difficult to remove, even with a shot of QD. I apply it so that I can barely see it on there.

2. Don`t let it haze too long. I find that doing two fenders and the hood, then going back over and removing in the order of the three panels is good.

3. Once you`ve finishing the first coat, let it cure for 1-2 days, re-wash your car and apply a 2nd thin coat. Adds some more depth and increases the already impressive durability of this product. It really is great stuff.

1) DO NOT go too thick.....remember that and say it a few times...

(I let a buddy borrow my can and he called me up a few hours later saying #16 sucked and he couldn`t get it off. After a couple hours we finally got it all off)

2) I guess I go thinner than most cause I generally do the whole vehicle let it sit for a while and then come back and wipe it off and have never had a problem with removal.

3) I generally wait an hour and come back with another coat.

[Scottwax]

I apply #16 to a panel or two then remove with a microfiber towel. My son used it yesterday for the first time and his comment was "it doesn`t come off as easily as Wolfgang or EX-P but it is still pretty easy".

[Mike_Phillips]

Just to chime in here,



You can use the #16 anyway you like, but technically, unlike the P21S, you are supposed to let the #16 dry to a haze before wiping it off. When it dries... it sets up. This means the carrying agents have evaporated off and the wax that has been left behind has hardened.



The whole idea of applying a wax is to leave some type of film behind for protection and beauty, if you remove a wax too soon, you remove it...



When I first read the P21S instructions, the first thing that caught my eye was the direction to wipe it on and then wipe it off. Two thoughts came to me,





1) It must be hard to remove when it fully dries. (This is typically why waxes that are hard to remove state to remove immediately after application. I`m not saying this is the case with P21S because I don`t find it any harder to remove then most waxes when I let it fully set-up, I`m just saying this is the typical instructions for waxes that are hard to remove when they fully set-up).



2) By wiping it off immediately, there is no way you can be leaving very much product behind. That`s because the wax isn`t getting enough time to harden and stick to the surface.





Like TOGWT says, just my experienced opinion... (I used #16 for almost all of my detail work from 1991 to 2002)





Use #16 however you like, but best results will come from applying a thin coat, allowing it to fully dry to a haze, and then removing it with your softest, 100# cotton terry cloth towel.



Or microfiber polishing cloth if you have the arms. The nap of a terry cloth towel tends to work better for breaking-up the continuous film build of wax than a microfiber on initial passes.



After your first pass, and most of the #16 has been removed, then you can finish removing with a microfiber polishing cloth. If you coat a panel with #16 and then compare a [b]high quality, plush, soft, 100% cotton towel compared to a microfiber polishing cloth, I am confident that you will find the terry cloth will do a better job of breaking the wax and then removing it.



Funny thing, after removing #16 from a car, often times you will see what appears to be a fine, long scratch in the finish that wasn’t` there before... upon closer inspection, and a carefully wipe, you will discover it to be a fine line of #16 wax.



Again, feel free to use it as you like, but it is a wax that is that should be allowed to dry to a haze, and then removed.



Mike

[The"X"]

I picked some #16 up at the Carlisle show this past weekend for $8, about half the price of the stuff at the big flamed trailer I tried it today for the first time. Seemed to go on as easy, if not easier than S-100. I left it set up for an hour before removing. The areas that I got it thin enough came off pretty easy but not quite as easy as S-100. The thicker areas took some rubbing to get off, but overall the extra wetness and shine over S-100 was worth it. :xyxthumbs

[AdvonspaanDC5]

Wow great posts everyone. Thanks for all the feedback.



As for #16 I find it to be a excellent product. It`s just when I applied it on one half of a hood, I tried to make it at as thin as possible, but doing it by hand it really is pretty hard to do to get it super thin. But one thing I absolutely LOVE about applying #16 is that I use almost no effort whatsoever. It just seems to glide right on giving me the feeling im just waving my hand in mid-air.



I let my friend finish up the hood and he was amazed on the ease of application as well.



But of course then came removal. In all honesty it is not EXTREMELY hard to remove most of it. It`s getting to the little lines that it leaves after is what takes more elbow grease.



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To Mike, is it because that the terry cloth towel suites the #16 wax before because since #16 is such a old school formula and they didn`t have microfibers back then, so using just terry cloths did the job I assume? Also since I remember you told me Terry cloths has a bit more bite to it compared to a microfiber.



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There`s a harley store opening right down the block from my house here in Pittsburg and I`m gonna pick me up some s100. Judging by the comments of s100, durability won`t be a problem since applying and removing it will probably take no more than 10 minutes.



The #16 I`m going to use it for family members who has no time to keep their car clean and needs all the durability they can get.



One last thing, Is S100 REALLY the same as P21S? or is it Slightly different? Cause I was considering ordering some P21S if it isn`t the same as S100.



Thanks everyone!

[Mike_Phillips]

Originally posted by AdvonspaanDC5

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To Mike, is it because that the terry cloth towel suites the #16 wax before because since #16 is such a old school formula and they didn`t have microfibers back then, so using just terry cloths did the job I assume? Also since I remember you told me Terry cloths has a bit more bite to it compared to a microfiber.



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The reason terry cloth works better for removing #16 PPW is because the terry cloth offers a little more bite and because the #16 PPW is so hard, (compared to most waxes).



#16 is sold as a mold release wax by at least one company I know of, and I have heard of other companies using it as a mold release wax. All Meguiar`s paste mold release waxes recommend terry cloth towels for removing them. Their are a couple of reasons why, but one of them is because the terry cloth offers more bite to break the wax. If you can imagine removing a hard wax like #16 from a 75` yacht, you would want to use the material that removed it easily... -> terry cloth towel.



Mike