2001civicex,
I say you are doing it correctly. I have it on for 30minutes to an hour. I have had some sections that I may have not completely buffed initially sit for a day and buffed it easily with a qd.
2001civicex,
I say you are doing it correctly. I have it on for 30minutes to an hour. I have had some sections that I may have not completely buffed initially sit for a day and buffed it easily with a qd.
2001 Volvo S80 Black
2002 Volvo C70 Silver
I also always use Griot`s polish first before the EX so maybe this helps out a lot.
Dude (or anyone else) -
It would seem that the Pro Polish is more of a final step before the EX. I have had great results with EX and VM, and EX and GEPC. Where would the Pro Polish fit in? The real swirls and oxidation are taken care of with Einszett Paint Polish or 3M Perfect-It III MG. Would the Pro Polish replace or compliment a paint cleanser with EX?
Mike
still wondering how the Pro Polish fits into things, is it a sealant or like #7, GEPC, etc.
also what about the SSR line of products what do they compare to, is the SSR3 like diamond cut
Originally posted by thomasfl
still wondering how the Pro Polish fits into things, is it a sealant or like #7, GEPC, etc.
also what about the SSR line of products what do they compare to, is the SSR3 like diamond cut
I`ve used every product in the Poorboys line (including all the SSRs) and use the Pro Polish all the time. I would say it`s very close to GEPC but no fillers and you can use it as a prep for polymer based products like Blackfire and UPP. I use the Pro Polish as a final step just before whatever final sealant/wax I use (including UPP). On very well maintained vehicles a terry pad or mf applicator pad and Pro Polish is often all the prep that is needed. It`s definetly a gloss enhancing paint cleaner like GEPC. Personally, I wish it were a little thicker but thats a pretty small complaint (sorry Steve )
I can`t imagine having trouble buffing it off unless way way too much was used and not worked long enough. Work the product until there is practically nothing left on the finish at all. Then you can literally buff the area with one swipe of a mf towel.
SSR1 would be on the order of Meg`s Swirl Free, SSR2 a tad more abrasive than that...but not much (think Meg`s Scale of 3 for Swirl Free and a 4 for Speed Glaze). SSR3 seems like a medium cut compound.....a bit more abrasive than 3M PI-II (you can feel the abrasives in SSR3). Interesting thing about the SSR3 was that it produced almost no haze (or buffer marks) on a black `96 Imapala SS. So little that one pass of SSR1 and it glowed like a deamon. A follow up pass with Pro polish and it was striking. Conversely, on the same car a pass with Coat`s Power Buff and it needed two passes with Coats Mild Buff (a medium duty polish) and a follow up with Pro Polish.
I can`t say enough about how well the SSR lines work. Especially neat was mixing the SSR1 and SSR2 on the same pad at the same time and buffing out some fairly nasty spots plus leaving it like you just used GEPC. Very versatile stuff.
Natty
------------------------------------------------
"Sorry Miss, I just decided I don`t do mini-vans"
Natty thanks for the info, it is all much clearer now. Maybe Steve should have you post some technical directions on his website.
Thomas, when my site is revised this summer, it will contain a chat room for sharing ideas and tips....yes Natty is one of my technical consultants, since he has used so many different products, I`ve seen his crates full of stuff, and has also used all my current products
And Natty wishes do come true
Hey.. my first post! I just got a bunch of Steve`s stuff in this afternoon and went right to work on my Sonic Yellow Subaru WRX. Since the car only has 2000 miles on it, I didn`t do a lot of prepping. I cleaned the car with Spray and Wipe and then I clayed all the horizontal surfaces and then went over the entire car with the Pro Polish with Carnuba. After letting that haze up, I removed it with a MF towel. Came right off, even in spots where I used too much.
Followed up with a coat of EX. EX sure does spread easy. It`s quite thick and pretty easy to manage if you get too much in one spot. I let that sit about an hour and then removed it and again, it came right off and left a nice, deep shine. Unfortunately it was getting dark so I`m going to have to wait on the photos.
As a Zaino convert, I`m very happy with the results, not to mention the great customer service from Steve. A nicer guy in the car polish business I have never met. Sure was better than talking to Sal.
Jay
Jay Carter
Jay@MeanKidsRacing.Com
www.MeanKidsRacing.Com
Hi Jay,
Welcome to Autopia. I just went to your web site. SERIOUS RACE CAR!! Pretty proud of the Lenco evidently and I`d say you should be. It looks like a real nice piece of work....the car that is........phew....serious race car. Have you run it yet? Times?
And I sure agreee with you about Steve and Ex. Great guy, great product and great service.
Dream big and be willing to do the work to get there.
The car has been 8.35 @ 167 on a relatively mild tuneup. It`s run a best of 5.10 @ 141 in the 1/8th mile. Not too shabby for 276 cubic inches.
That`s QUICK. I remember when I first got interested in drag racing....1959. Garlits was the man. He held the record at 8.31 and 181 mph. Things have changed just a bit.
All that with 276 ci! Amazing. My hat is off to you and your engineering and fabrication skills. I was building a street/strip El Camino but I have few skills and less knowledge and the guy helping me was killed racing at Cordova Il. a few years ago. The project is on hold but I`ve been getting more enthusiastic again. I guess the shock of his accident kinda cast a pall over the project for a long while.
What part of the country are you in? Do you race NHRA...class?
Dream big and be willing to do the work to get there.
I`m in Dallas, Texas.
We actually had a chassis shop do most of the frame work. The car belongs to a friend of mine. I built the engine, do all the tuning, wiring, etc, etc and he drives and does the clutch work.
I`ve been pretty heavily involved in turbocharged performance for about 15 years, doing everything from turbo Buicks to turbo Mustangs and even some foreign stuff thrown in.
We built this car to run a local outlaw deal they have here. It`s all 1/8th mile racing and they have 3 races a month. When we started, the 700 cubic inch engines were running 4.90s and we thought we could be competetive and we could have been but the chassis guy we started with drug his feet and we wasted a whole year piddling around with him.
Now the cars are much faster and I dont think the V6 can be competetive. Maybe with some bigger turbos there are some 4.80s in the car but the V8s are running 4.60s now. A small big block could be in our future.
Back to the Poorboys stuff, here are some photos of my WRX after giving it the Poorboys treatment.
Jay
Jay Carter
Jay@MeanKidsRacing.Com
www.MeanKidsRacing.Com
Ya gotta love what the Poorboys Ex does....and I like the yellow too.
Dream big and be willing to do the work to get there.
I never used EX, but it sounds to good to be true. It`s a sealant that can be applied on top of carnuba waxes, excellent shine, and can be purchased in gallon quantities. I`m sure I`ll be ordering soon, just trying to figure out what combo I`ll be using with EX.
Here`s some possiblites:
1) vanilla moose + EX + S100
2) GEPC + EX + S100
3) Poorboy`s Polish w/ carnuba + EX
Which combo sounds best?
Interviewer: : Rock, you got anything derogatory to say about the champ?
Rocky Balboa: Derogatory? Yeah. He`s great
After all the kudos for PoorBoys Ex, looks like I have another product to try.
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