Google "Bearing Interchange Chart". It is what we in engineering used to find obsolete bearings (IE, bearings from manufacturers no longer in business or bearings no longer being made by the original manufacturer) OR cheaper off-shore bearing manufacturers (AKA, reverse-engineered or knock-offs) to cross-reference bearing part numbers from various bearing manufacturers. Most "better" bearing have some bearing number stamped or etched the side of the race to identify them in some way. If not, the bearing is REALLY cheap and the only way to find a suitable replacement is to measure the inside diameter and outside diameter and thickness with a digital calipers in millimeters and find an identical-sized "upgrade" from a bearing manufacturer. SKF offers some of the best bearings in the business, but you pay for it (think Porsche quality with Porsche price or Snap-On tools versus Harbor Freight tools) ). You will see how many different bearing manufacturer there are on this chart. Many of the long-time USA companies are no longer in business due to off-shore competition (like New Departure and Hyatt).
Since we are on the subject of bearings, I will caution those of you who are having wheel bearings replaced on vehicles at non-dealer repair shops OR if you do it yourself. Be careful of the bearing that you buy. With low quality knock-offs available at a very reasonable price, saving quite few bucks for a bearing might not be in the best interest of vehicle safety and your well-being. ASK to see the bearing AND the box it came in at a non-dealer repair shop if they tell you that they can install one at a very cheap price quote. Imitation and counterfeit bearings are hard to spot, however, just like counterfeit money. One way is if all the printing on the box is in Chinese subscript and there is no English on it other than "Made in China." or if the bearing looks rusty already, even though it has lubrication grease or corrosion-inhibiting oil on it.