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Thread: Iron X Paste

  1. #16
    Dr Oldz's Avatar
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    Re: Iron X Paste

    Funny you mentioned WD-40.... seems when I tell people about the water dispersal they say “that stuff can do everything” when that it’s intended use. Not really a good lubricant like people think it is....



    anyway now I’m way off topic here. Back to the scheduled program.

  2. #17

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    Re: Iron X Paste

    Speaking of back to the regularly scheduled programming....(and note, I almost always enjoy when threads go a little off topic, I learn a lot from you old timers)

    But as I was saying...if the paste version is so good, why dont more vendors carry it? I`ll assume the simple answer is just plain supply and demand?

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  3. #18

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    Re: Iron X Paste

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Oldz View Post
    Funny you mentioned WD-40.... seems when I tell people about the water dispersal they say “that stuff can do everything” when that it’s intended use. Not really a good lubricant like people think it is....
    anyway now I’m way off topic here. Back to the scheduled program.
    Well I will continue the off-topic about WD-40:
    Dr. Oldz, you are correct, to some degree. One place this "lubricant" should absolutely NOT be used is plastic or non-metal bearings or slides. It will gum them up. A MUCH better alternative is 3-in-1 oil. I was told this from a plastic bearing manufacturer rep who stated that more plastic bearings (like acetyl, Teflon, UHMW, phenolic) are ruined by well-intentioned maintenance personnel "misusing" it as a lube for such bearings and slides. So resist the inclination to spray your garage door slide with WD-40. Now, using WD-40 for removing tar specks or concrete dots from painted vehicle body panels, well you decide...
    GB detailer
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  4. #19

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    Re: Iron X Paste

    As mentioned if you have a high amount of bonded iron particals it`s much stronger cause of the little higher concentration of the iron remover parts but especially the longer dwell time from it. And as accumulator mentioned with the ABC approach a degreaser first to uncover the iron particals is a benefit. I personally use a tar remover too before going after the ferrous metall. This is cause tar and some of the material from the brake pads IME attach easier on these particals. So an alkaline degreaser and then a tar remover and followed by an iron remover. The iron remover I use for the bad ones is an acid gel cleaner. Same princible as the IronX Paste with a thick gel for getting a longer dwell time. Acid is usually a very economical way to remove iron particals and can be used on the paint too just don`t use it on the glass. The huge benefit with the color changing iron removers is that you see how it reacts. But also an easy way for you to see if and how much of the iron particals you have. I also do a quick blowdry with the leafblower between every step and also after every round if more than 1 is needed. If you do a control application on small sections where you had a lot of the bleeding effect you also see if you got everything with the first application. With this you will also be seeing how effective the iron remover you go with is. Cause some can have a great bleeding effect but that don`t means they are effective as some others can be. Carpro IronX is a great benchmarking product for iron removers as it`s one of the most effective ones out there. So if you find an iron remover that actually desolves iron particals better than the IronX you have an awesome iron remover. Have been thinking on getting the IronX Paste many times but the domestic brand of the acid gel I`ve got is so inexpensive and effective so I put it off to testing it out. But something like the IronX Paste would be great to have in the arsenal when you get those badly neglected wheels and paints.
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  5. #20
    Long Time Member GearHead_1's Avatar
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    Re: Iron X Paste

    SWETM, your posts are some of the most informative on the forum. That said, I have trouble reading through them. Is there not a paragraph in there somewhere?
    A society willing to trade liberty for temporary security deserves neither and will lose both
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  6. #21

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    Re: Iron X Paste

    GearHead_1- That`s a good point for *everybody* to remember- paragraph breaks. Avoiding the daunting Wall of Text is an easy way to make posts more readable. Just hit that Enter key every now and then and problem solved.

    NOW...since I`ve piled on ...I do want to specifically commend SWETM not only for his informative posts but also for his admirable command of English. I doubt that many here could do as well in [any non-primary language], some of us don`t do as well in our native tongue!

  7. #22

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    Re: Iron X Paste

    Bringing this thread back alive.

    Are there many other types of long clinging iron removers out there?

    Has anyone had success with adding and iron remover to a pre wash foam?


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  8. #23

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    Re: Iron X Paste

    Quote Originally Posted by Astouffer512 View Post
    Bringing this thread back alive.

    Are there many other types of long clinging iron removers out there?

    Has anyone had success with adding and iron remover to a pre wash foam?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Their are snowfoam iron removing prewashes so sure it could be done but figuring out ratios would be tough.

    For cling nothing i have tried is better than Griots iron and fall out remover. Almost too clingy. Im going to mix with iron X half and half next time I use.


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  9. #24
    Ummm.... Ya..... TroyScherer's Avatar
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    Re: Iron X Paste

    Quote Originally Posted by Astouffer512 View Post
    Are there many other types of long clinging iron removers out there?

    A gel like IronX paste will always give a longer better cling.

    IMO most all of the other sprays a similar other than the scent and amount of active ingredient. While I have used a number of them I keep coming back to IronX.



    Quote Originally Posted by Astouffer512 View Post
    Has anyone had success with adding and iron remover to a pre wash foam?

    CarPro has a iron remover soap. But if you look at the dilution and the suggested uses it just doesn’t seem cost effective if detailing for money. I find using the spray and then “working it in by hand” works the best for me.

    I have gone through a few bottles
    CarPro IronX soap and it works good as a once a year heavier decon soap on my coated vehicles.
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