Wheel coating?

[BudgetPlan1]

If you can find a coating you can airbrush and not have to level that would be ideal. It seem like there is one. I’ll try to get more information.

Never tried it but Migliore has an aerosol SiO2 Rim Coating

[DetailZeus]

That`d probably hold true for a lot of my wheels (the 5-6 spoke ones especially), but I`ve done the Tahoe`s oe wheels both ways and the OptiCoat took *HOURS* longer, and I don`t mean just two. Absolute [freakin`] nightmare for me, just the design of those particular wheels (and their centercaps/mounting hardware/lug covers/deep valvestem coves/etc.). I was thinking how they were probably easier than the 3-piece modular wheels we used to run (grrr...all those tiny fasteners), but it sure didn`t seem like it at the time.

A big part of it is Fear of High Spots, worried that those might not just buff away like a sloppy application of wax will.

I`ve toyed with the idea of coating the oe BBS wheels on the `93, but just FKing them took me about two hours yesterday, and I was only doing the faces and not prepping them at all.

Not to throw more fuel on the fire, but I`m anxious about the prep involved with coating wheels that have previously been LSP`d. Especially with something durable like FK, where I wouldn`t trust a "quick wipe down" with a prep spray or even a solvent panel wipe to remove whatever is left of the sealant. I feel like you`d really have to get in there and hand polish every bit you`re going to coat.

[Coleroad]

Never tried it but Migliore has an aerosol SiO2 Rim Coating

tons of negative reviews on the aerosol can and nozzle itself. Things like press the nozzle and it won`t shut off. Drippy nozzle, nozzle breaking, sounds like a risk I wouldn`t take for $90. Cool idea though I must say.

[Coleroad]

I think I`m going to use either the CQuk, or theglossshop coating.

[BudgetPlan1]

tons of negative reviews on the aerosol can and nozzle itself. Things like press the nozzle and it won`t shut off. Drippy nozzle, nozzle breaking, sounds like a risk I wouldn`t take for $90. Cool idea though I must say.

Doh! Never really looked into it much but it sounds kinda like many things that pop into my head, i.e. "Well, *that* didn`t go as planned"

[BudgetPlan1]

Not to throw more fuel on the fire, but I`m anxious about the prep involved with coating wheels that have previously been LSP`d. Especially with something durable like FK, where I wouldn`t trust a "quick wipe down" with a prep spray or even a solvent panel wipe to remove whatever is left of the sealant. I feel like you`d really have to get in there and hand polish every bit you`re going to coat.

When I re-did my previously coated wheels this summer I did the following:

1. Hose down with Poorboy`s Strip Down, scrub & rinse
2. Foam with Gtech W4 Citrus Foam, scrub & rinse
3. Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus, scrub & rinse
4. Gyeon Tar, scrub & rinse
5. Polish Angel Ultrared, scrub & rinse
6. Lite Polish w/ foam cone in drill, something like Megs M205 (SMAT stuff so i don`t gotta worry about it breaking down thru cycle like DAT)
7. Wipe down with Kleen-Strip Prep-All
8. Wipe down with CarPro Eraser or similar
9. Coat

Sounds like a lot but really didn`t take that long, probably 8hrs to get all 4 done but scrubbed tires w/ TuffShine Cleaner and applied their tire coating as well so that took a bit.

While I am a believer in the whole `clean surface before coating` sometimes I think the whole worry over `microscopically and surgically clean surface or else epic failure` thing is a bit overblown.

Perhaps I`m just getting a bit cynical about it all...

I think this winter I`m gonna take one of the vans I coated in Winter 2017 and just wash it and coat it again with same product (no prep, no polish, just wash with Reset and wipe down with prep spray) and see how that goes over the next year or 2, providing the world doesn`t end before then.

[Coleroad]

What still worries me about doing a coating on these wheels. Is the tight space behind each spoke, and the lip behind them.





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[Coleroad]

I think this winter I`m gonna take one of the vans I coated in Winter 2017 and just wash it and coat it again with same product (no prep, no polish, just wash with Reset and wipe down with prep spray) and see how that goes over the next year or 2, providing the world doesn`t end before then.

this would be an awesome experiment and thread. Do you plan on using the same coating, or different one over it?

[BudgetPlan1]

this would be an awesome experiment and thread. Do you plan on using the same coating, or different one over it?

Yup, will take the first Van I coated in 22ple HPC and just give it a wash, wipedown and recoat with 22ple HPC again. Will remove any tar and any other obvious surface debris but no decon or anything. Will coat right over any defects, scratches and abrasions.

The over-wrought `purists` heads should explode...will have to post it up on Facebook to really get people in a twist.

[Accumulator]

[Whenever I talk about how difficult it would be for me to get a coating 100% right, gotta remember that I have vision issues that most *don`t*. This whole Detailing thing is quite different for me than it was a half-dozen years ago. Anyhow...]

When I coated wheels they had previously been done with FK1000P. I *did* do some degree of polishing on both sets, which certainly removed any residual FK.

BUT...if the wheels are in good-enough condition, I`d just use something strong to wash them, something that`ll leave `em squeaky-clean. ValuGard "A", PrepWash, bodyshop pre-paint solvent, something along those lines. There are plenty of products that I`d trust to strip *any* conventional LSP easy-peasy.

While I am a believer in the whole `clean surface before coating` sometimes I think the whole worry over `microscopically and surgically clean surface or else epic failure` thing is a bit overblown..The over-wrought `purists` heads should explode...

I suspect you`re right. I certainly feel that way about conventional LSPs...to hear many talk you`d think my LSPs wouldn`t last a month due to the (seemingly) minimal prep, yet I seem to get better durability than most anybody!

EDIT: Heh heh, you said you`d use M250...I`d worry as much about stripping those TSO as I would about stripping FK1000P...well, almost. Sorry, I`m a broken-record on that subject

[BudgetPlan1]

[Whenever I talk about how difficult it would be for me to get a coating 100% right, gotta remember that I have vision issues that most *don`t*. This whole Detailing thing is quite different for me than it was a half-dozen years ago. Anyhow...]

When I coated wheels they had previously been done with FK1000P. I *did* do some degree of polishing on both sets, which certainly removed any residual FK.

We`ll see how it is next year as I didn`t do any polishing to remove the previous coating on the barrels/backs of our daily driver wheels, things were still pretty much squeaky clean so have a feeling the coating was still good after 42k miles.

I suspect you`re right. I certainly feel that way about conventional LSPs...to hear many talk you`d think my LSPs wouldn`t last a month due to the (seemingly) minimal prep, yet I seem to get better durability than most anybody!

EDIT: Heh heh, you said you`d use M250...I`d worry as much about stripping those TSO as I would about stripping FK1000P...well, almost. Sorry, I`m a broken-record on that subject

On my daily driver the door sills/jambs now have 3 different coatings (8 layers) w/ no removal done to them; 22ple (x 3), Kami (2 Miyabi, 1 ISM) and now SPS Graphene (x 2). Obviously a kinda protected area not subjected to too much weathering but they haven`t melted either. Have no idea how well they are holding up on a molecular level or what/which coatings may still be there but what the heck, it`s a door jamb. The way I abuse it with my big, lazy clown-feet, more may be better

[The Guz]

Not to throw more fuel on the fire, but I`m anxious about the prep involved with coating wheels that have previously been LSP`d. Especially with something durable like FK, where I wouldn`t trust a "quick wipe down" with a prep spray or even a solvent panel wipe to remove whatever is left of the sealant. I feel like you`d really have to get in there and hand polish every bit you`re going to coat.

Each time I reocat it is this is what I do.

Wash - Wheel cleaner is optional
Chemcial decon - Iron remover and tar remove if needed
Mechanical decoan - quick claying
Polish - A machine gets the job done but not necessary.
Prep wipe
Coat

What still worries me about doing a coating on these wheels. Is the tight space behind each spoke, and the lip behind them.

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Take a suede with no applicator and apply to those area.