Sonax Polymer vs Carnuba Waxes(single stg paint)

**Stokdgs** · 05-05-2019, 11:14 PM

Striker,
Sorry, I have been away from the Laptop until now..

Looking at the only pic of one of your pads, I would have to guess the pad is dirty down there somewhere, and really needs a complete Snappy Clean Makeover..
The pad you took that picture of also looked pretty worn..
Especially for Black - have to have a LOT of new, clean,pads.. Like a Dozen or more..
Dan F

**Striker** · 05-06-2019, 05:39 PM

The pads don’t have many miles on them at all.

I think the bristle brush I use is too much for them.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**Stokdgs** · 05-06-2019, 08:25 PM

Originally Posted by Striker

The pads don’t have many miles on them at all.

I think the bristle brush I use is too much for them.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, if they are fairly new pads, they look pretty beat..

I never use any kind of brush on foam, never had to.. I think brushes on foam are only going to weaken the foam and it will not work as well..

Can wear a Hydro-Shred Foam Cyan Pad down to half of its original size, by just doing the wipe down..
And even at half-size, the foam is still solid across the pad face and not all loose and stuff, making it not as effective in my experiences..

I just keep everything clean around the workspace, and use those little white cotton towels, to wipe off all residue using my fingers behind the towel and wipe down and across a couple of times, and since the towel is White, I can see what is coming off and what color it is on the white towel..

This keeps the pad as clean as it can be going down the vehicle, until the pad gets too saturated, and is holding stuff deeper in it that cannot be removed, except by washing it really well, and squeezing it as much, as its washed and especially rinsed, to get all the Snappy Clean and rinse water, and gunk deep in there, out..

I also try to avoid using too much product because that will cause a pad to go out on me sooner..
There is a balance between too much and too little, and it applies to that spot on the panel.. Hopefully, the rest of the panel will behave the same way when corrected and that always helps speed up the process..

You will know if you are using too much product, because it will take too long to work it down to nothing and you will be wiping a lot more stuff onto the white towel that is very visually apparent..

The key for me, is to use C/G Pat Conditioner as the moisture, to help - Extend - the correcting cycle longer enough to break everything down to hardly a thin easy to see-through layer at the end of the cycle, so there is always just a tiny bit if anything, to wipe off and see your work..

All my foam pads know that they are not only going to correct, polish, etc., they they are also going to clean up what is left, so I can wipe them down easily and the visual of what is on the white towel is another very helpful indicator of what is going on at that spot..

There will always be a Zillion ways to do this, some perhaps faster, better, whatever..

All I can say about the process I use is that it always - gives me outstanding correction, clarity, and gloss, and I absolutely have a visual through the wipe down of the pads to give me the best feedback of what is coming off the paintwork on that spot..

Looks like you are making great progress and what I have seen - wow - it`s going to be Blinding out in the sun !
Dan F

**Striker** · 05-06-2019, 10:57 PM

Thanks buddy. I appreciate it!

So every time you’re polishing- you work the product down until there’s barely anything to wipe off?

One thing that I noticed is some clumping of debris - soft debris that was rolled up by the friction. No idea what it was. But they were clumps of this stuff.

I’m still experimenting with this paint but could it be that 2500+3000 with cyan can produce proper results?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**Stokdgs** · 05-07-2019, 10:29 AM

Striker -
Yes, every pass group I make on that spot, using the Makita 9227C at speeds 1 and 2, I work with downward pressure for that spot, the product until its a very light film if any, across the entire surface worked..
Remember, I make the Pad do the work and the clean up on purpose..
Another reason why Pad wipe off is important after that pass group is done..
Now, I see 2 things, the surface and determine what else is needed there, or time to move to the next area, and the stuff that comes off the pad wipe down onto the white towel.. What color is it? What`s in it?
I never see clumping of debris, because I have figured out just how much product needs to be there for That Spot .. If I have to go over it again, then I might use - Less - product because I already did that spot before using more product, right ?
I think clumping of product is too much product and again, you want - All - the product to work itself down to nothing with the pad doing all the work and then cleaning it all up at the end..

The Hydro-Shred - Cyan - ( Blue) color pad in my years of using it, has proven to be very capable of correcting most defects - And - finishing up with a great amount of clarity and gloss.. Sometimes, on certain paint and defects, it will be all you need and then go to wipe down and apply your LSP of choice..

Certainly, varying the product in your case, Menzerna 2500 to 3000, will of course, because you are using the most aggressive Hydro-Shred, give you more correction AND Finish down even better..

Keep going, you are doing GREAT !
Dan F