Bettix twin neck bottles

[Coatings=crack]

Doesn’t look like A/G or Autopia sells these. Does anyone know where I can buy them?

Thanks



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[Setec Astronomy]

US Plastics.

[SGM2008]

Amazon

[Accumulator]

Forget why I went with USPlastics instead of Amazon, but that`s where I got mine too. Handy things...

[Coatings=crack]

Yeah checked both us plSics like 2-3 dollars. Amazon like 12. You guys had no problems ordering through us plastics?




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[Accumulator]

You guys had no problems ordering through us plastics?

Never any problem at all. Sometimes their prices are a bit high, but they`re a 100% stand-up company.

[Fishroes]

Looks like the container stabil comes in. Does it have a measuring scale on the neck

[Lonnie]

I am curious what car-care chemical products you would use them for?

Odorcide uses that same type of bottle for dispensing precision amounts of its odor-negating chemical when diluting it with water mixtures.

Also, most of the liquid car-care chemicals I would THINK you may use this with have the viscosity of water and are not a thicker gel, like some car wash soaps.

Some mixing ratio math:
If you need a 4:1 mixture ratio (water: chemical product) you really need five (5) parts (4 part water PLUS 1 part chemical EQUALS "5") IE, its the SUM (ADDITION) of the ratio quantity.
So if you want a 32 ounce mixture (one (1) quart), you divide 32 by 5, yielding 6.4 ounces of chemical and 25.6 ounces of water (IE, 25.6 + 6.4 = 32 or the four (4) part water to one (1) part chemical is your 4:1 ratio).
This is true of ANY ratio, such as 10:1 is really 11 parts. If you need 16 ounce of mixture (one (1) pint), you divide 16 ounces by 11, yielding 1.45 ounces of chemical and 14.55 ounces of water.
It is also a reason many chemical products end up with what seem "odd" ratios quantities, like 3:1 or 7:1 because they end up being "even" when you sum (add up) the ratio. (3:1 = 4 and 7:1 =8 TOTAL parts).
It also works with the Metric System of fluid cubic centimeters (cc) or milliliters (ml) amounts if you use that measurement system.
(Do not get me started on the simplicity of the Metric System over the British Standard System!!)

Also, I suggest using a 4-cup (one quart) Pyrex mixing cup with a pouring lip for mixing chemicals with water. It is much easier to control pouring the final mixture into a plastic spray bottle and it has an easy-to-read ounce/cup and milliliter scale on the side to use to measure the amount of water and product being mixed.
For safety reasons ALWAYS pour in the water amount FIRST, then the chemical liquid SECOND, and not the other way around. WHY? it is an old high-school chemistry class safety procedure from mixing acids and water in test tubes. What you may not realize is that when water is added to an acid it starts an endothermic (heat producing) reaction and if you add water to acid in a tube, it will boil out in a violent reaction and shoot acid out of the test tube. I have experienced this first hand and luckily only burned my T-shirt and shoulder in high school. Now, most of the car-care chemicals you use will never product an endothermic reaction with water (Acid-based wheel brake dust cleaners being the exception), but it is still a good practice to pour in water first, then the product in the Pyrex cup. By doing so, you ALWAYS start with the LEAST diluted mixture that gets stronger as you pour in more chemical product.

Second Safety tip, READ the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) from the chemical manufacturer. It will tell how dangerous (like flammable/toxicity to humans/reactive with other chemicals) the chemical product is, what personal safety equipment you may need to wear (like safety glasses/goggles or rubber gloves) and what to do in case of spills or if you get it on yourself. It is just common sense to know what you are working with, rather than trying find this information when an accident happens (like when it splashes into your eyes!)

Just a fellow OCD Autopian who would like others to be safe-than-sorry.

[trashmanssd]

For me its mostly high dilution value gallon size stuff like waterless wash and rinsless wash or window cleaner. D114, D115, D120,

[Accumulator]

As noted, these work best for low-viscosity liquids. I`m currently just using mine for 50:1 Glass Cleaner. I`m not concerned with being all that accurate with my other concentrates so I just do those with a measuring cup.

[Coatings=crack]

I am curious what car-care chemical products you would use them for?

Odorcide uses that same type of bottle for dispensing precision amounts of its odor-negating chemical when diluting it with water mixtures.

Also, most of the liquid car-care chemicals I would THINK you may use this with have the viscosity of water and are not a thicker gel, like some car wash soaps.

Some mixing ratio math:
If you need a 4:1 mixture ratio (water: chemical product) you really need five (5) parts (4 part water PLUS 1 part chemical EQUALS "5") IE, its the SUM (ADDITION) of the ratio quantity.
So if you want a 32 ounce mixture (one (1) quart), you divide 32 by 5, yielding 6.4 ounces of chemical and 25.6 ounces of water (IE, 25.6 + 6.4 = 32 or the four (4) part water to one (1) part chemical is your 4:1 ratio).
This is true of ANY ratio, such as 10:1 is really 11 parts. If you need 16 ounce of mixture (one (1) pint), you divide 16 ounces by 11, yielding 1.45 ounces of chemical and 14.55 ounces of water.
It is also a reason many chemical products end up with what seem "odd" ratios quantities, like 3:1 or 7:1 because they end up being "even" when you sum (add up) the ratio. (3:1 = 4 and 7:1 =8 TOTAL parts).
It also works with the Metric System of fluid cubic centimeters (cc) or milliliters (ml) amounts if you use that measurement system.
(Do not get me started on the simplicity of the Metric System over the British Standard System!!)

Also, I suggest using a 4-cup (one quart) Pyrex mixing cup with a pouring lip for mixing chemicals with water. It is much easier to control pouring the final mixture into a plastic spray bottle and it has an easy-to-read ounce/cup and milliliter scale on the side to use to measure the amount of water and product being mixed.
For safety reasons ALWAYS pour in the water amount FIRST, then the chemical liquid SECOND, and not the other way around. WHY? it is an old high-school chemistry class safety procedure from mixing acids and water in test tubes. What you may not realize is that when water is added to an acid it starts an endothermic (heat producing) reaction and if you add water to acid in a tube, it will boil out in a violent reaction and shoot acid out of the test tube. I have experienced this first hand and luckily only burned my T-shirt and shoulder in high school. Now, most of the car-care chemicals you use will never product an endothermic reaction with water (Acid-based wheel brake dust cleaners being the exception), but it is still a good practice to pour in water first, then the product in the Pyrex cup. By doing so, you ALWAYS start with the LEAST diluted mixture that gets stronger as you pour in more chemical product.

Second Safety tip, READ the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) from the chemical manufacturer. It will tell how dangerous (like flammable/toxicity to humans/reactive with other chemicals) the chemical product is, what personal safety equipment you may need to wear (like safety glasses/goggles or rubber gloves) and what to do in case of spills or if you get it on yourself. It is just common sense to know what you are working with, rather than trying find this information when an accident happens (like when it splashes into your eyes!)

Just a fellow OCD Autopian who would like others to be safe-than-sorry.

Would use to mix elixir with ECH20 and and SS CLUTCH instead of reload. It has measuring on side of one I got with Wolfgang Uber RW. Also for McKee’s 914


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[Coatings=crack]

Also good with car soap. I mix 5 oz soap 10z of water. Then when needed just use 3 times amount recomeendee


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