Beading looks nice. Just ordered a bottle of moonlight and have a bottle of Can coat I haven’t cracked yet. Now I gotta get a bottle of this. If it last theirs 100$ down the ceramic toilet
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Beading looks nice. Just ordered a bottle of moonlight and have a bottle of Can coat I haven’t cracked yet. Now I gotta get a bottle of this. If it last theirs 100$ down the ceramic toilet
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Anyone seen this at pep boys, autozone or any OTC stores?
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Not to take this off-topic, and noting that I suppose all pollen isn`t equal, I always find it rinses right off our vehicles even though they don`t have anything, uhm...modern/special on them. Simply never had it be an issue at all other than on Souveran back in the day; all my other LSPs shed pollen just fine, sure don`t have to do a real wash to get it off, just a pressure washer rinse will do it if it doesn`t rain hard enough.
Yes perhaps you are correct, but you have good sealants/waxes. I havent had this issue in a while, but see other cars where they stain yellow. Perhaps due to lack of a LSP?
You still put me on the original Collonite and it has served me well for yearssssss and my bottle is still over half full!!!
I stopped trying new products since my current cache is performing well. I do think based on reviews and price, the CMX is a great contender, especially it also works on wheels/trims/windows.
I have a couple coats of Blackfire Crystal Seal on my new vehicle.
Can I go over that with CMX, or should I strip it first?
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You can go ver the Crystal Seal with CMX, check it out, see how long it lasts. Given the price of CMX it may be interesting to try this first. You should get the CMX cleaning/beading/gloss properties for however long it lasts.
Then, if you decide you really like CMX or really want to see it standalone, strip the Crystal Seal as a clean or SiO2 primed (think Essence) or coated surface will no doubt allow CMX to perform its best for the longest.
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392hemi- Right, all our vehicles get reLSPed long before it`s really necessary and that undoubtedly makes a big difference.
Glad the Collinite (guessing it`s 845 since you said "bottle") is working out for you; I still use that for a few things (e.g., textured under-vehicle areas). You might try using it on the wheels and trim, but wipe-on-wipe-off when it comes to the latter rather than letting it flash off. 845 was my go-to on trim for a long, long time (until good Trim Sealants came out).
And, heh heh,yeah......I`ve pretty much quit trying new stuff too, 100% satisfied with my current regimen. But I do still find threads about stuff like CMX interesting, never know when something might (really) sound like a possible upgrade.
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I`m considering moving from FK1000P (still stay in arsenal) to CMX............................................... .... I stripped off my week old FK1000P testing different mixes of prewash, 0.50oz Chemical Guys Honey Dew/ 0.25oz 91% IPA to ~31oz water in the IK9 and there was nothing but standing water on the panel. Tried panel wipe to remove any residue, then glass cleaner to remove any residue from the panel wipe. No more FK1000P on the panel. This is all in my quest to fight traffic film, CMX looks like it will be the upgrade needed to help fight traffic film, solely due to the fact that it looks like it can stand up to non neutral ph chemicals.
Did some testing today. Hydrophobics are awesome, I would not be worried at all if this gets wet instantly after applying for those who don`t like dealing with extended cures.
Tried a sample torture test with Prep-All and Poorboy`s Strip Down on CMX that`s been on the paint for 5 days stored inside. They both have a very heavy impact on CMX, neither showcase full removal, Strip Down causes some coating damage while Prep-All is more of a straightforward hard knock down of the surface tension. Strip Down has some very heavy surfactants, a rewash with Reset afterwards cleaned some of this up but the insane beading is knocked down for good pretty easily. This isn`t surprising, and again this type of test doesn`t mean much when it comes to actual durability, even waxes and sealants in the short term can be resistant against Strip Down and Prep-All while showing a drastic reduction in surface tension. McKee`s 37 V2 coating showcased heavy coating damage as well after Strip Down.
I left a strip of fresh CMX to polish out with Meguiar`s M210 on a black Buff and Shine finishing pad with the GG6 on speed 4 with 3-4 overlapping passes, this easily knocked down CMX and I considered it completely removed from the paint after observing the next rinse sessions. On half of this section polished with M210, I followed up with a panel wipe of Prep-All, the other half left untouched. The sheeting is smooth and slightly faster on the section that wasn`t panel wiped (polishing oils), wash with Reset evened both sides out, close to hydrophilic. Then going over the paint with surfactant heavy Strip Down, both sections are still evened out and we have a hydrophilic sheet. After paint polishing, I generally don`t see hydrophilic water behaviors until a surfactant is reintroduced to the surface. As a side note, I`m really liking Prep-All as a post polish panel wipe, and you can eliminate all needs for "strip" wash soaps by running Prep-All to knock down a good deal of whatever is still left on the paint prior to whatever you want to do, be it clay or polish.
There`s only a limited amount of information we can get in the short term. Paint felt great prior to the first rinse on CMX, I`m as amped up as anyone when it comes to strong beading but the reality is we can get cheap, immediate, and durable beading with Brilliant Shine Detailer. But the combination of this level of beading/sheeting and decent slickness was not available over the counter in a spray form until HCW and now CMX, and I am expecting CMX to outlast HCW and I do not prefer to use HCW without an immediate rinse afterwards.
So far so good with CMX, I`ll let the durability test on the daily driver to run its course.
Edit: Posting the raw video footage with no voice.
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applied some cmx to my 2000 ford f150 today over numerous prior sealants and waxes. easy on easy off, me likey.
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TheMeanGreen- I`ll be very interested to hear how the CMX compares with the FK1000P.
I do find it odd that the FK1000P isn`t good enough with regard to traffic film, but different people/situations and all that...
Heh heh, your curiosity far exceeds mine, stripping off fresh FK! That sounded like more work than I`ll do on any of our vehicles for the next few years
Did another test today with CMX against Adam`s Ceramic Spray Coating. Very close initial water behaviors, did the same chemical wipedowns with Prep-All and Poorboy`s Strip Down on top of them. Adam`s resisted better against both chemicals compared to CMX, both are still impacted. No signs of coating damage on the Adam`s side, just a surface tension impact whereas CMX shows coating damage like you see in the video I posted above after Strip Down. Same peak gloss readings on both sides after the first wash with Reset, both look great on the paint. Adam`s is much lighter, doesn`t take as much of a wipedown to buff it off clean but I`m guessing CMX will hold up it`s high surface tension better in the short term in a real durability test.
I`m working with a Ryobi 1700psi 1.2gpm with the Ryobi MTM SGS-28 kit and Kobrajet hose from Obsessed Garage. The pressure washer is actually fairly loud, I had to reupload that video above with the sound turned down! I would rarely pull the pressure washer out before, but with the hose and gun upgrades it has completely transformed its usability, and I can film with one hand with the shorty gun. Love it now, and with the quick disconnects I can easily go from blasting with the pressure washer to flooding with the Gilmour nozzle prior to drying the paint.
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