Soap probably left something on the surface of CMX. Apex detail tested it and found that polishing it didn`t remove it. That seems pretty tough to me.
Soap probably left something on the surface of CMX. Apex detail tested it and found that polishing it didn`t remove it. That seems pretty tough to me.
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Kevin Brown talked about an experience polishing a vehicle. He talked about after many products and pads paint correction was going nowhere. It turned out that it was a layer of sealant from the automatic car wash. After taking steps to chemically remove it. The paint correction process went easy. He also shows how a sealant greatly reduced the effectiveness of sanding. It was him talking about why it`s always important to start with a virgin surface before doing any paint correction. He said sealants just get pushed around by the pad and product, and if you are going to try to remove it by polishing. You need to use a excess amount of product.
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Wow, very interesting. This info goes against general consensus in these forums (any decent abrasive polish will remove any LSP). I don’t know enough but look forward to further responses here.
Agreed. I`ve never had an issue removing any sealant or coating. In fact I`m continually amazed at how much clear I can knock down with a lowly GG6 and a good compound. With modern thin paints you can get down to double digits with a few passes.
So yeah, I`d love to have a sealant that was that resistant to an abrasive polish. Might do an amazing job with keeping swirls away.
In this video at about 14 minutes in.
Larry has some top notch content, this is a great visual example that Kevin provides and a scary topic for product testing when abrasive polishing may not be enough to guarantee product removal, even on basic polymer products. I`ve thought about running a paint cleanser type like McKee`s 37 Coating Prep Polish prior to polishing on all tests and follow up with Prep-All. I currently only run Prep-All as a pre-panel wipe prior to polishing and then use this as a post-polish wipedown because it has been much more effective in most circumstances compared to the strip-style soap washes, IPA (Gyeon Prep and CarPro Eraser), and definitely against Duplicolor Grease and Wax Remover.
CMX doesn`t seem to show much chemical resistance in my tests, Seal N Shine is definitely one of the most resistant short term non-coating product I`ve tested chemical resistance against, I didn`t get the feeling that CMX survived my testing after going over it with M210. I remember Fusso Coat showing a very strong resistance to multiple heavy Meguiar`s Wash Plus applications so I`m going to see if I can run some extensive polishing tests with Seal N Shine and Fusso Coat and come out with a video that could potentially show evidence for any abrasive resistance.
Did anyone else jump on the CMX that was on sale in the Autopia store? Can`t beat the deal with 6 free microfiber towels. Looking forward to trying it out.
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How long time from application to the chemical resistant testing do you useally wait?
I think that some products need to be haveing a little longer cure time until you attack it with chemicals. Full blown coating is often the recommendation to wait a week after applyied until you first wash it. And I think that it`s more the top hydrophobic surface you could mess with when aggitate it when washing than the chemical it self. I also think that you need to be haveing a little longer cure time with SiO2 toppers/sealants and polymer sealants that crosslinks. Even if it`s not mentioned from the manufactures with a cure time. I don`t think they expect you to do something to the newly applyied LSP in a least a couple of days up till a week. Some products I have used I see far more resistant to chemicals when used as normal and wash after a week or two. For an example I saw someone doing a torture test on Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer. And it was not even standing up to a iron remover or an APC. That`s not my experience at all with it. And that`s after a month with it on and done iron remover and tar remover with no impact at all for me with only BSD as the stand alone LSP.
Also I think that when you aggitate a harsher chemical product it`s gets really aggressive on the hydrophobic properties on LSP. And with a spray on a chemical and let it dwell and rinse off. Most LSP can handle a lot of it. I don`t think that you remove it and rather change the hydrophobic top layer to not bead and sheet water off. This is just what I think is happening and no evidence to back it up with. The problem would be that you don`t get the fair testing if you only do a chemical removal and testing another product on top. You can have bonding issues and also different results vs a real bare paint. So not so easy when doing a lot of different testing on test panels.
I meen like doing a torture test with an iron remover and followed with an APC Optimum Power Clean and then some stronger degreaser product. And you basicly gets the same results from mostly every product that is tested and that`s flat paint. It`s almost impossible to set them apart of which is doing better than the other. So finding a method that you get it to resist the chemicals and aggitations for some more times and then lastly fails or the hydrophobic properties is done. And get it to be so you can get some kind of difference between the products you do test has a more value. Than just make most to fail after 2 steps. Cause I think that it`s more difference between products than being removed so fast.
Don`t get me wrong I like these testing of products a lot. Just that from some youtubers I would like to see how a product behaves and not just how you remove it as some do.
Is your experience with Optimum Power Clean that it`s a LSP killer? He who use it kills almost every LSP he test with this second step.
When used on conventional LSPs that are considered durable, OPC and other APCs that I`ve used (especially the old EFHI) were able to compromise them. I just did it with the EFHI the other day and it worked great.
As I`ve posted before, I vary as to whether I strip the existing LSP or just compound/polish through it, just depends on all the variables. (FWIW, I usually do *not* bother stripping, but I`m just doing spot-correction.) I have indeed had (admittedly minor) issues from trying to just cut through a very healthy (conventional) LSP, but IME that`s pretty rare.
I can certainly understand somebody seeing benefit in using the same, known-effective, approach to stripping prior to using abrasives. But I wouldn`t go so far as to say it`s always necessary because IME it simply isn`t.
This is what I have a week after application on the roof of my Mini. Hand washed with DG901. Much better results than the CG Citrus wash, but I`m going to test the CG stuff one more time to make sure it wasn`t user error the first time I applied the CMX.
I haven’t used this product; but I’ve used similar: Permanon & Hydro2. My guess is this stuff is similar or more likely a watered down version of the chemistry in either of those.
My experience is, none of these products last very long and cost per application is very high - especially if you’re doing a complete vehicle. My gut tells me the durability of any of them is more impacted by the surface, quantity used, & the environment it’s exposed to - opposed to any specific product used. They do a decent job on a surface that’s too architecturally complicated to apply a traditional product on.
Other than that; Sonax BSD will significantly outperform this stuff and you can do a whole car with like 10 mls or so.
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Swanic, maybe we should view these spray-on products as "gateway" ceramics
I bought the CMX a couple of months ago and used it for the first time this weekend, we`ve been enduring terrible weather. My son`s friend came over with his 2014 BMW 335i in metallic black. The car is kind of hurting and it sits outside 24/7, parked under a tree. They only worked on the hood and probably spent 2 hours just on de-con followed by polishing with our new knock-off Chinese Rupes. The scratches and other stains on the hood were not going to be easily polished away with Meg`s 105/205 combo, though their efforts did yield a dramatically improved appearance. I asked them to stop as they don`t really comprehend the downside of thinning the clearcoat with endless polishing. However, it all looked pretty decent following those two polishing phases. We then did a quick wipe down with Eraser and applied the CMX. The CMX definitely yielded further improvement in the hood`s appearance. It appeared to fill in some of the remaining light scratches. Gloss was nice, surface was glassy smooth to the touch.
I see this car every once in a while so I can monitor the longevity of this new coating.
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I saw a commercial for this product on TV this morning. The user was applying to a wet surface.
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