Quick detailer for a coating

[agtjamesb007]

I am using Mckee`s 37 coating and was wondering what quick detailer can I use to clean up a smudge or so. I have so many, I wish I didnt have to buy another. Mckees of course has thier own products but I am not sure if that is just marketing or not. What I have on hand is Blackfire`s quick detailer and two types of Mequiars (I may have ohthers I am forgetting) What do you think, or what do you think I can "get away with"

[Justins00ss]

Before IGL coatings came out with there coating safe detail spray I was using Griots Garage speed shine with no ill effects on any of my coating jobs.

I did see issues with some of the other types of quick detailers out there.

[JSFM35X]

For smudges I would use onr at quick detail strength. IGL also makes a coating safe QD called enhancer that I recently purchased and it works well too.

[Mike lambert]

Griot’s speed shine leaves nothing behind, Griot’s best of show detailer leaves minimal residue and works great in the sun if outside. It works good on coatings. We always recommend staying with the coating manufacturer recommended products for maintenance to be safe.

[c5longhorn]

I wouldn`t worry too much and would use up what you have. Most QD isn`t going to stay on the surface very long.

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[Desertnate]

I wouldn`t worry too much and would use up what you have. Most QD isn`t going to stay on the surface very long.

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Agree.

I`ve used the following products as a QD spray on coated cars and been happy with the results.

- McKee`s High Gloss Detail Spray
- CarPro Ech02 (1:20 ratio)
- Kenotek Showroom Shine

Each one is different, but they worked equally well when it came to removing smudges, post-wash water spots, bird droppings, etc. Of the three, the Ech02 is far more versitile and economical. But I can`t say anything negative about any of them.

[rlmccarty2000]

Agree with Desertnate. ECH2O mixed with an SIO2 spray like Reload works for me, but I’ve used Sonax BSD, Kenotek Showroom, and whatever waterless wash solution I happen to have on hand to touch up my coated surfaces.

[agtjamesb007]

Thanks for the help all.
Why though would you not use a particular shampoo to wash you car, or wax over a coating...something about clogging up the pores of the coating or reducing its efficacy of the coating? Mine did not last me one year, let alone the advertised two, but I put carnuba over it several months later and washed it after the winter.

P.S. I did do excellent prep work before applying the coating also.

[SWETM]

Thanks for the help all.
Why though would you not use a particular shampoo to wash you car, or wax over a coating...something about clogging up the pores of the coating or reducing its efficacy of the coating? Mine did not last me one year, let alone the advertised two, but I put carnuba over it several months later and washed it after the winter.

P.S. I did do excellent prep work before applying the coating also.

As you wrote it`s clogging the coating or you get to much of contaminants on it. If you use a car soap with wax and some glossenhancers in it. And the same with waterless wash or rinseless wash or QD and other products that has a lesser water behavior properties than the coating you have on the car. You are left with a surface that is not the coating at the top. What many do think is that the coating is done when this happens down the road. And also when they got some contaminants build up they also think it`s done and gone. The coating is many times just as fine under what ever has gotten on it. And a decon with a couple of different chemicals that desolves different kind of contaminants. Will revive the coating in most cases to be working good again. So IMO and experience with decons you need at least a tar remover and an iron remover. Then depending on what kind of contaminants you have. You can be needed to also use a water spot remover to get the lime scale and mineral deposits desolved as much as possible. Then you have the car soap. Even if it`s not leaves nothing behind some are just not strong enough. That`s where Carpro Reset comes in and saves you. It just works and cleans and rinse off clean in a way that is at the top of any car wash solution out there. Sure there are others too but you know what you get when useing Reset. And if you use other wash methods I would recommend to every 4th wash. To do a 2bm wash with carpro reset to get the coating clean and with least contaminants build up as possible in the long run. After you start with washing with Reset on a coating that has been on for a while I would do it the next 4-6 washes to get the coating back as good as possible.

As for a QD I would get Carpro Ech2o. And use it as the recommended dilution of QD to clean spots with smudges and other things. If you are after a glossenhancer after the wash I would use Ech2o in the Merlin Elixir solution. Which is 1oz of Ech2o and 1oz of Reload and 20oz destilled water. Then use Ech2o in both waterless wash and rinseless wash. It has a great cleaning ability and lubrication and are made for coatings. And as mentioned before I would not only do waterless wash or rinseless wash only but bring out the buckets and Reset sometimes. Then depending on the environment and what kind of contaminants you get on your car. A decon wash every 3-6 months. These contaminants don`t just looks like spots. But is as a layer over the coating. So it`s not easy to notice them as they builds up over time. IMO it`s not just a marketing thing. And the most of them that think it is that. Just don`t get the coating to last as long it`s capable of doing. Then claims the coating is done and gone when it`s many times just doing fine under what ever has gotten on top of it. And to be honest I have treated the sealants on my car the same. Have done decon with mostly TFR prewash and tar remover. To get them to last longer for me. And has a behavior of them as near to them being applyied. The difference is you have to prep and apply more often a wax and sealant than you are with a coating. And the wax or sealant is not so large of difference with the products you have that leaves something behind than it`s on a coating. Don`t get me wrong. I am useing products that are holding up the properties on the wax and sealants too.

[Desertnate]

As you wrote it`s clogging the coating or you get to much of contaminants on it. If you use a car soap with wax and some glossenhancers in it. And the same with waterless wash or rinseless wash or QD and other products that has a lesser water behavior properties than the coating you have on the car. You are left with a surface that is not the coating at the top. What many do think is that the coating is done when this happens down the road. And also when they got some contaminants build up they also think it`s done and gone. The coating is many times just as fine under what ever has gotten on it. And a decon with a couple of different chemicals that desolves different kind of contaminants.

Agree. I encountered this early on with my coated cars coming out of a long winter. My first bucket wash of spring revealed what I thought was a total failure of the coating on the lower portion of the doors, rear quarter panels, and hatch. Water would bead and sheet nicely on other areas, but those really dirty "spray zones" behaved as if they were bare metal. Initially I was really disapointed. However, after about my third bucket wash, I noticed the beading/sheeting behavior was returning. By the fourth~fith wash, everything was back to normal. Had I used a purpose-made shampoo like Reset, it probably would have been a quicker process, but since I wash the vehicle every two weeks or so it wasn`t a big deal. The vehicle has no completed it`s second year of being coated and survived yet another winter and it`s only now starting to show signs of failure.

I`ve found simply keeping the coated surfaces clean had the most impact on water behavior. Using shampoos which didn`t have glossing agents or waxes and not using any toppers other than a QD spray. The products I mentioned either don`t leave anything behind, or anything left behind is quite minimal and won`t effect the coating performance. They are also rumored to have some of the same components of the coatings themselves in them to ensure nothing conflicts with the coatings. I don`t know who true that might be, but the products are light enough I`m sure any material left behind simply degrades in a few days leaving nothing but the coating behind. It isn`t like topping with a more substantial wax or sealant which would bond to the coating and mask it`s performance.

[rlmccarty2000]

If you find your 2 year rated coating not beading, a good wash with Reset can make a difference. You also may want to do a complete decon with an Iron-X type product. Coatings still get contaminated, just not as fast as noncoated vehicles. After a decon and a good wash if beading does not get better that still doesn’t mean the coating is gone, but I would correct and install something new.

I was able to bring back a car I coated with PBL v1 after 2 years. It was not perfect, but you could tell the coating was still providing some protection. This was on a car that was neglected and went through touchless washes about every 3 months.

[Accumulator]

Heh heh, I still think that some of you put as much effort into maintaining coatings as I do living with conventional LSPs. With any luck you`re getting better protection.

But anyhow, the only coating I`ve used is OptiCoat/GlossCoat, but IME IUDJ and FK425 were both find on it.

Griot’s speed shine leaves nothing behind...

Mike- I`ve seen this before and can`t recall ever getting a response to:

Any idea when they changed it?

(My apologies if you`ve answered before..)

I haven`t bought any for four or five years, but I have some older SpeedShine that *absolutely* does leave stuff behind, obvious and indisputable even when used on a LSPed panel, let alone a bare one. Like... "look at the newly shiny area that now beads water and feels slick even though the rest of the panel does not"; as if a Spray Wax had been used only not as long-lasting.

As it aged, some of the [whatever the waxy-like stuff is] would sometimes precipitate out and solidify...feels kinda like a wax to me but no I don`t know what it really is.

I used dozens of gallons of SpeedShine over the years, used to buy four or more at a time. I remember when it first came out as "Fast Shine" and they had to change the name (still have bottles that say Fast Shine).

[Mike lambert]

I don’t know about a change, but I have been assured by both Rod Kraft and Jeff Brown it does not leave anything behind.

[RMD]

Are traditional QD’s even an issue as far as buildup is concerned? I’m using the term traditional to mean ones without “added protection.” I wouldn’t imagine a traditional QD or waterless wash mix would survive the next 2B wash, especially with something like reset, so I never worry about a QD “altering” the properties of a coating.

This is also where product naming/descriptions get complicated. BSD mentioned above acts like a spray sealant IME, it gives quite a bit of protection. That, despite the name, would be a different analysis as to its effect on properties of an underlying coating or sealant.

[Accumulator]

I don’t know about a change, but I have been assured by both Rod Kraft and Jeff Brown it does not leave anything behind.

Huh, interesting. Must be different these days.

EDIT: The current/"bare" version might be a viable choice for a couple of things, might put it on the short list should I ever use up my M134, so perhaps it *was* worth the discussion. I`d quit using it over the "stuff it left behind" and wouldn`t have considered revisiting it had we not had this discussion.