*Public Service Message* When Discussing Polishing Pads - Include the brand and specific line *Public Service Message*

[jatleson]

There are a lot of different manufacturers (and private labelers) of pads and lines that each of the said manufacturers sell. When asking/discussing pads, please include the brand and line you are discussing. A Griots Boss White pad is very different than a LC Flat White pad.

And to spice things up - do you typically stick with one line of pads or combine from different lines/manufacturers? I`m 95% Griots Boss pads. I have some older Buff and Shine that I will use every once in a while.

[Older]

The only pads I use for my Cyclo are the DoublePrecision foam pads. They have a quick-disconnect system that is outstanding. They`re also 2-sided. It`s like having 2 pads in one. They wear like iron, too.

They`ve been out of production for awhile now.

[Accumulator]

The only pads I use for my Cyclo are the DoublePrecision foam pads. They have a quick-disconnect system that is outstanding. They`re also 2-sided. It`s like having 2 pads in one. They wear like iron, too.

They`ve been out of production for awhile now.

Ah, Cyclo

I have some of those, but generally prefer the regular Cyclo pads for significant correction. It`s like the DP pads have too much deflection and are thus less aggressive.

But yeah, I too like the Cyclo pads and they *do* last forever. IIRC they are the same foam as the "Edge" branded pads. Those Green Foam Cyclo pads have been around since forever and back pre-velcro we used them for everything from compounding to LSPing.

As with the LC Yellow Foam Cutting Pads...I don`t like the Cyclo Yellow. Too much hazing, not enough cutting.

And to spice things up - do you typically stick with one line of pads or combine from different lines/manufacturers? I`m 95% Griots Boss pads. I have some older Buff and Shine that I will use every once in a while.

I use various pads from different makers, but that might change once I`ve tried the B&S and/or GG Boss ones. I`ll probably always use the Cyclo pads on those machines though.

[Mike lambert]

All Griot’s here.

[Accumulator]

All Griot’s here.

That`s a great way to keep it simple. I don`t like the idea of having different cut-levels of Orange or White pads, too likely to cause an "oops!" if you`re not careful.

I`m kinda leaning towards eventually going all GG too, but your recent caveats about damaging pads with high speeds, which I assume are related to your use of the GG pads, gives me pause. I sure don`t want to introduce a potential issue that I`ve managed to avoid to the point of never giving it any thought.

Wonder who makes the GG pads...I gather their Three Finger Sheepskin Wheel Mitt is made by LC and that got me wondering...

[Mike lambert]

Not because of the Griot’s pads! I’ve had All makers pads damaged by running at full speed. It builds up the heat to much in the center of the pad. Nobody reccomends running a da full boar.

[Older]

Ah, Cyclo

I have some of those, but generally prefer the regular Cyclo pads for significant correction. It`s like the DP pads have too much deflection and are thus less aggressive.

But yeah, I too like the Cyclo pads and they *do* last forever. IIRC they are the same foam as the "Edge" branded pads. Those Green Foam Cyclo pads have been around since forever and back pre-velcro we used them for everything from compounding to LSPing.

As with the LC Yellow Foam Cutting Pads...I don`t like the Cyclo Yellow. Too much hazing, not enough cutting.



I use various pads from different makers, but that might change once I`ve tried the B&S and/or GG Boss ones. I`ll probably always use the Cyclo pads on those machines though.

I’ve never used the yellow pads. The most aggressive ones I’ve used were the orange pads. And I haven’t used the orange pads since my wife’s old G35 with the revolutionary “self-healing” paint. They worked great on that stuff.

[Stokdgs]

It might be fun someday to find out who makes all the different Pad Brands...

I just use Lake Country because they work great, last a long time, they are very predictable, I get perfect results, are relatively inexpensive compared to other brands, and this company has been around probably the second longest, doing what they are doing...
Since I use Rotary Power, I need only 3 different pads from them.. Purple Wool Foam, Cyan Hydro-Shred, and Tangerine Hydro Shred..
Oh yes, I have lots of other colors of their pads from before they came out with the Hydro-Shred Line but those are not really needed..

Dan F

[BudgetPlan1]

It might be fun someday to find out who makes all the different Pad Brands...

Same guy who makes every single coating in the world, of course!

[Stokdgs]

Same guy who makes every single coating in the world, of course!

Wouldnt we just DIE if it turned out to be Sal Zaino ??????

Dan F

[SWETM]

Yeah it can be pretty confuseing sometimes when it`s just says white or orange pad they have used. Brand and line of the pads would be great to write since even a big company as LC has different color scheme in their lines.

I buy often pads from domestic companys. They import the pads in their own brand or buy the foam or mf or wool material and cuts it here. They import from Germany which makes some great pads materials . And they are pretty good quality on them and the price is very low. I still use some other pads and meguiars mf cutting pads and Scholl Spiderpads and Rupes yellow and white foam pads. Are some that I like.

[Lonnie]

Yeah it can be pretty confuseing sometimes when it`s just says white or orange pad they have used. Brand and line of the pads would be great to write since even a big company as LC has different color scheme in their lines.

I buy often pads from domestic companys. They import the pads in their own brand or buy the foam or mf or wool material and cuts it here. They import from Germany which makes some great pads materials . And they are pretty good quality on them and the price is very low. I still use some other pads and meguiars mf cutting pads and Scholl Spiderpads and Rupes yellow and white foam pads. Are some that I like.

That statement terrifies me! With all the talk of tariffs and trade wars these days, we detailers could be in a world of hurt if we cannot get foam pads and microfiber towels and clothes, along with the many imported car-care chemicals some of us are using. Sorry to hi-jack this thread and make it "political" , BUT it does concern me.
(Not to mention the dairy, meat, grain and vegetable/fruit farmers in my state of Wisconsin. If they go out of business, you and I do not eat!!)

My pad choice is Lake County Hydro-Techs blue, tangerine, and red because of Stokdgs` suggestion AND I use the 4" size because I use a Dual-Action Porter-Cable for my machine as a hobbyist, so it is easier to handle (less pad flopping/deflection) and get into tighter areas.

[Accumulator]

Not because of the Griot’s pads! I’ve had All makers pads damaged by running at full speed. It builds up the heat to much in the center of the pad...

Huh...I`ve simply never had problems like that, even when I was polishing all the time. I had expected the Flex 3401 to trash my pads, but nope..maybe because I only use that for the heavy lifting.


But I`m glad to hear that the GG Boss pads aren`t especially susceptible to that. You`ve really piqued my interest in the BOSS (15) system, and I was happy with my usual stuff!

Nobody reccomends running a da full boar.

Heh heh, well...I do

IIRC at one time plenty of others here did too, not that I`d necessarily put much stock in that. Since we`re in roughly the same age group..think back a few years- Wasn`t all that long ago that many compounds wouldn`t break down right at lower speeds so before today`s (oh so good!) abrasives it was simply mandatory, at least with the stuff I was using. The first generation of GG Machine Polishes, especially MP1, were like that though not as bad as some others that were really developed for rotaries.

[Stokdgs]

""Nobody reccomends running a da full boar.""
Mike --

Well, with those that have the traditional design Random Orbital, and you need Pad Rotation to get the work done, and the best Pad Rotation is achieved by turning it on Speed-6, what is one supposed to do?

I suppose if one turns it up to Speed-6, puts all their body weight on the machine, it might kill the pad sometime,and probably the machine, but no one is really going to do that, right?
No one on this Forum would recommend that or has ever recommended that technique...

Before all these helpful inventions like Backing Plates with holes in them, Pads with center holes again, Better Pads, etc., to help cool off the plate and pad, less weight, etc., everyone just had to do without, and using common sense, adjust how much pressure they put down on the machine at Speed-6, to not get things too hot anyway.. Especially on painted plastic bumpers, B,C, Pillars, etc., those areas that are not metal and do no dissipate heat very well..

And we all got through that part..
Dan F

[Accumulator]

""Nobody reccomends running a da full boar.""
Mike --

Well, with those that have the traditional design Random Orbital, and you need Pad Rotation to get the work done..

At least in a timely manner. Guess some of us are in a hurry

I suppose if one turns it up to Speed-6, puts all their body weight on the machine, it might kill the pad sometime,and probably the machine, but no one is really going to do that, right?
No one on this Forum would recommend that or has ever recommended that technique...

By the time I put much pressure on it that kills the rotation anyhow. I save that for the Flex, which just *might* kill my pads if I did correction all the time. That might be a huge factor here; I figure Mike lambert does more correction in a month that I do in a decade nowadays. I do so little correction that `m still using a few pads from my previous shop, and I sold that back in `02.