What to use for "missed spots" after wash?

[1500canoe]

I`m noticing that after doing a traditional wash, there are often spots that I`ve missed: stray bugs, road film in recessed or lightly washed areas, door jams, etc. Some of these areas aren`t really noticed until I at least make a once-over with a leaf blower.

I`d like to go back with something in a sprayer with a microfiber towel and touch up these areas, but I`d like the product used to be:

1. Strong enough to help clean and lubricate
2. Spray on, wipe off
3. Not contain wax or polish, etc.

Would this be a good use of ONR wash and shine diluted 1:16? Is there something else you would recommend? Thanks!

[RaydiantDetail]

Yes ONR would work fine for this at waterless wash dilution.
What is your wash process though? Are you doing a presoak or using a product that helps loosen road film? What type of soap are you using today? How often do you wash your car and is this something that happens often on each wash? You may just want to go over those areas twice with your wash mitt in the future as that will always give you the best lubrication but the next best would probably be a waterless/ rinseless solution heavily sprayed on those areas then wiped clean.

[1500canoe]

What is your wash process though? Are you doing a presoak or using a product that helps loosen road film? What type of soap are you using today? How often do you wash your car and is this something that happens often on each wash?

I don`t do any kind of presoak unless the vehicle is *really* dirty. If so: foam, dwell, pressure wash rinse, followed by 2 bucket hand wash. But as I said, I almost never presoak/prewash.

I`m using Meguiar`s Hyper Wash or some BF "Car Wash" that I got for free, and I wash about every 2 weeks or more often as needed. There aren`t a lot of areas that need touched up after the wash, but always somewhere: often a bug splat or four that didn`t completely get cleaned and was difficult to see when wet, or some road film in a small spot on a lower panel that didn`t get washed aggressively enough.

[JSFM35X]

Usually a hammer. Or a big stick.

Seriously. Onr Mixed strong and a long nap MF towel.

[LEDetailng]

We are on Autopia. What are these missed spots you speak of?

I usually just use a wet portion of my drying towel. On the Trans Am I would use Uber or D114 to clean up missed spots.

[1500canoe]

I usually just use a wet portion of my drying towel.

I`ve done that also, but I cringe a little (especially because I`ll keep using that towel to dry and not really take note of where the dirt is). Link to detailing site removed.

1.Using a Drying Towel to Remove Dirt Missed During the Wash
When you use a drying towel to pick up any dirt missed during the wash, you are simply forcing the dirt into your cars paint and creating scratches. If you miss a spot, go back and wash that particular spot to make sure all of the dirt is removed. It is also a bad idea to use a squeegee to dry your vehicle as it can also create scratches on the surface of your paint.

[Accumulator]

It would have to be one *VERY* minor issue for me to try using just Rinseless, I`d be more likely to go back and wash that area properly (multiple passes with the foamgun and various wash media) even if it added a lot of time to the wash. Still quicker and easier than correcting marring...and safer on the clearcoat. And we`re talking what...maybe five minutes? Drop in the bucket, never even notice it.

But I`d *really* be wondering about my wash technique if this became a regular occurrence. Eh, I`m probably just way more extreme about my Wash Regimen than you`re gonna be.

It does sound like you might oughta consider more Drying Towels.

[RaydiantDetail]

I feel like if its bugs and dirt/ grime or road film being left over then you may want to consider using something like Poorboys Bug Squash which is a pre-wash. I usually use this prior to foaming with soap when I work on customers vehicles. Spray on the bug squash and let it dwell for a few minutes on the problem areas usually the front bumper, lower parts of the car, rocker panels, lower doors etc. wherever you are noticing you have that left over film of dirt after washing. Then follow up with your foam soak and 2bm wash process. I also generally hit those problem areas a few times with the wash mitt just to make sure I get everything.

What protection do you have on the car currently? Usually I have found the issue of road film/ grime really sticking to the paint when my client literally has no protection on the paint.

I agree with accumulator if you can get all the dirt off with the soap/ water lubrication you will likely reduce the chances of marring. Though I have not noticed much or noticeable marring with my ONR wash process but then I am not usually looking so closely. Lately I am more about keeping the car clean when I have the chance and since time is always a factor for my maintenance washes because of two very young kids (2 and 8 weeks) it just works out faster for me then pulling out the PW, foaming, and doing the whole 9 yard wash. I can usually get around the car in 30-40m including some light cleaning on the wheels at the end.

[RaysWay]

I`d say two things:

#1: Why not always use a presoak? The cost of a gallon of Citrus Degreaser or Bug Remover will be worth it. Traffic film can hide some of the other stuff like tar or pollen stains or bug guts or etc, so presoaking will always help you. Especially since you`re foaming. Presoak then allow it to dwell while you setup the foam cannon/gun.

#2: If you notice missed dirty spots after washing you should "punish" yourself and rewash. After a few times of punishing yourself you`ll hate the idea of having to rewash so much you`ll be sure to never miss a spot again

Or just have a friend or neighbor inspect the car while washing. 100% guaranteed they will tell you that you missed a spot

[Accumulator]

RaydiantDetail- I handle the bugs a little differently; I do the "normal" washing and then go back and deal with them if necessary (I`m still using up my old 1Z Anti-Insekt). But then I`m all about marring and LSP preservation.

Big diff between me doing my cars and you doing a customer`s car though! And when it comes to your own, your other obligations are sure a lot more important....2 and 8wks...I can`t even imagine, my hat`s off to you.

And IMO you`re 100% right about how the LSP can factor in! It`s *VERY* rare for anything to stick very tenaciously to mine. Heh heh, guess this is where I usually go all fanboy about FK1000P, which has made this all *so* much easier for me.

1500Canoe- Those Bug Remover sprays can be great, though you gotta watch that they don`t remove your LSP along with the bugs.

Also great IME are the WWMF "Bug Towels". As long as you don`t let them retain bug-parts (which can scratch) the one I have (forget where I got it, it was a freebie with another order) is just right as long as I`m careful.

DO NOT use those "Bug Sponges"! Every one I`ve tested (yes, properly ) has been a scratch-machine. Great for getting bugs off windshields though; I cut mine into slices and use one of those for the first pass(es) this time of year (get it *soaked* with Glass Cleaner first). I`ve heard that the Griot`s Ergowave Sponge is paint-safe, but I haven`t tested mine as I just use it for other stuff.

I also wonder about your lighting..maybe you just need better illumination so you can better see what`s going on/not. That kind of brings me to Inspection..I spend forever inspecting my work whether I`m washing/polishing/LSPing. I`ve half-joked that I must spend at least as much time inspecting whatever I`m doing as I spend on the actual doing! Overall, IMO that saves me time in the long run.

Recessed areas- When I do a tricky panel I do the majority/normal part of it first, and then go back with a smaller BHB or somesuch and get those tight spots before I move on to the next panel. Telling myself that I`ll go back and get the "little stuff" later never really worked for me.

E.g., I`ll wash the outer panels of the doors on one side. Then I do the tight spots around beltline trim/handles/mirrors/etc. Then I open the doors and do the jambs. THEN I`ll move on to the next section. That way, when I`ve finished a section I`ve *finished* it, and don`t have to reorient myself or remember to check something.

Plus, when I do the final rinse, and I always rinse off the whole vehicle before I start on the Drying, I look carefully for any areas that don`t show normal beading/etc. That can be a sign that there`s residual dirt on there.

Eh, it can take an awfully long time to get your wash regimen all sorted out, it`s not just you. There`s just so much to consider! It`s only recently, after *decades*, that I feel truly dialed-in. Hopefully, especially with the experience and advice here at Autopia, it won`t take you nearly that long.

[Accumulator]

I`d say two things:

#1: Why not always use a presoak?

Why not? Heh heh, OK hey, I`ll play

I`d worry that`d strip/compromise my LSP, turning a Maintenance Wash into a bigger project.

Eh, I guess I`m just surprised that people are finding it so hard to get the vehicle clean. Mine can get pretty awful between washes but it all comes right off. Different people, different situations...just...differences, huh? YMMV once again.

[1500canoe]

You all bring up some interesting points and ideas, thank you!

I think "missed spots" is too general of a term as it means different things to different people. Heck, it means at least 3 different things to me in this thread. Those are probably 3 good/interesting examples to look at (that summarize what is being said in this thread nicely).

"oh there`s some bug residue there still"	This is calling for some kind of pre-treatment or prewash.
"my drying towel got dirt on it around the license plate and from the rocker panel"	More careful or thorough washing would solve this. That might mean pre-treatment/prewash. Or re-washing, but if the car is mostly done/dry, and we`re not talking about a seriously dirty spot, then this should be okay to clean up with ONR etc.
"I like cleaning the door jambs and under the trunk lid after the main wash" or "I need to go back and touch up around the badges/trim/etc"	This is where I think ONR or similar product at QD strength makes the most sense. You`d be basically doing a rinseless wash of some areas (that are difficult to rinse or get to with a wash mitt). To me, this is more like "detailing" than "washing".

I have been seeing these three or other things (like maybe a stray water spot) after my washes, hence why I like the idea of going around with a spray bottle of something and a good MF to finish everything off. I`m going to get better at realizing common things/areas that need more attention during the wash, for sure. Presoak is something I hadn`t considered too much but I need to add to my process and would solve some issues. Now I need an LSP-safe presoak/bug wash

[1500canoe]

1500Canoe- Those Bug Remover sprays can be great, though you gotta watch that they don`t remove your LSP along with the bugs.

Precisely my concern! I`ve watched some videos/reviews and a lot of what I`m seeing seems to be pretty harsh. I need to find something that actually works but doesn`t mess up LSP. (Currently 845 by the way.)

DO NOT use those "Bug Sponges"!

Yeah my first thought when I saw those was "those look like a Scrub Daddy, no way I`m using that".

I also wonder about your lighting..maybe you just need better illumination so you can better see what`s going on/not.

YES. I mostly do my washing in the evening once there`s enough shade on the driveway or during the day when it`s overcast. It`s not *bad* lighting, but it`s not always amazing either.

Eh, it can take an awfully long time to get your wash regimen all sorted out, it`s not just you. There`s just so much to consider! It`s only recently, after *decades*, that I feel truly dialed-in. Hopefully, especially with the experience and advice here at Autopia, it won`t take you nearly that long.

Yes, this. While I enjoy doing the process and getting good results, I`m still trying to find ways to save time too. That is sometimes a balancing act.

[RaysWay]

Why not? Heh heh, OK hey, I`ll play

I`d worry that`d strip/compromise my LSP, turning a Maintenance Wash into a bigger project.

Eh, I guess I`m just surprised that people are finding it so hard to get the vehicle clean. Mine can get pretty awful between washes but it all comes right off. Different people, different situations...just...differences, huh? YMMV once again.

You got me lol. Good point

"oh there`s some bug residue there still"	This is calling for some kind of pre-treatment or prewash.
"my drying towel got dirt on it around the license plate and from the rocker panel"	More careful or thorough washing would solve this. That might mean pre-treatment/prewash. Or re-washing, but if the car is mostly done/dry, and we`re not talking about a seriously dirty spot, then this should be okay to clean up with ONR etc.
"I like cleaning the door jambs and under the trunk lid after the main wash" or "I need to go back and touch up around the badges/trim/etc"	This is where I think ONR or similar product at QD strength makes the most sense. You`d be basically doing a rinseless wash of some areas (that are difficult to rinse or get to with a wash mitt). To me, this is more like "detailing" than "washing".

Love this chart. Detailing isn`t simply black and white many many variables.

[Stokdgs]

My best process for washing a vehicle is to first pressure wash it all with just water and my DeVilbiss Pressure washer, using ONLY a wide Fan Tip, and paying attention to all the areas that are the most dirty..

This knocks off a lot of stuff quicker than anything else I want to do, and is also good to get dirt out from behind moldings, around those pesky BMW tail lights, and since Im doing the engine and compartment, all the equipment is already out there anyway..

On really dirty, nasty, full of little trees growing out of every crevice vehicles, I sometimes spray it down with Meguiars APC+ mixed stronger, let it dwell, and then pressure wash off a lot more gunky stuff to start..
Especially inside the gas filler compartment and inside of that little door..

Then when I get to the hand wash, there is less of that pesky, stuck on there stuff, and I can go faster...

Try to make it a grid, wash one part of the grid at a time, and make darn sure, I dont miss any part of that part of the grid...

And has already been said, absolutely have to have great light, or lighting, and keep focused on the work with no distractions..
I need to be fast, and efficient..
Dan F