Aloha Jeff, the 30ml bottle is clear. I`ll apply a light coating of Skin in the remaining panels. Also, how long should I wait to apply Cure?
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When I first used Syncro, I just skipped the Cure...didn`t want to contaminate the delightful slickness and shine of Skin on it`s own. Instructions also state Cure use is optional. Have to say, so far, glad I didn`t use the Cure that might diminished the hydrophobics; got a look at the vehicle I sued Syncro on, tossed some water at it and while it sheeted very well, the behavior of the beads left on the hood was unlike anything I`ve seen before.
Usually I`ll hit some beads with a little shot of air to see how well/easily they move and when I did this on the hood of the Syncro vehicle, it moved the beads across the surface with less resistance than any product I have seen. The beads moved almost like mercury did (back when we were allowed to play with mercury, anyway) with such little resistance on the surface it was really mesmerizing...very very little friction and just a little `motivation` would shoot the well-defined bead across the length of the hood.
Be sure to try it; it`s like a Lays potato chip, you won`t be able to stop at just one. Very, very cool.
I agree with Budget on not using cure. As mentioned it is optional per the instruction booklet. I would say to use it down the line as maintenance but you may not want to after experiencing how crazy hydrophobic the surface coating is.
I don`t know if you have had the chance to wash whatever vehicle has syncro but it was something to see when I foamed the car with some shampoo and nothing was sticking to the surface. Awesome stuff so far at 2 months.
Glad to see so much enthusiasm for Syncro. Mohs has performed very well over the past 2y for me. Was going to go with Sparkle+ and Top Coat, but I`m not sure if the extra expense will be worth it to me. Since ACC has a sale on Syncro now... :)
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EDIT: don`t talk me out of it, because it`s a done deal!
that is my intro coating package and I`m very excited to use the primer and can coat but have yet to sell it. I even offer it mobile (for garage`s of course)
I was thinking about putting some can coat on my truck over the other coatings that are in need of some form of refresh
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I was thinking about putting some can coat on my truck over the other coatings that are in need of some form of refresh[/QUOTE]
That will work nicely. I use Cancoat on both our coated cars.
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The Gyeon Primer (which sat on my shelf for 6 months before I remembered I had it) has been one of my more recent `pleasant surprises` wirh regards to products.
I used it on a relatively new (800 miles) Lunar Silver Honda HRV that I was trying Gyeon One on. It looked so good (definitely had that coating `look`) after the Primer that I was slmost questioning whether it needed the coating afterwards.
Just 2 small drops on a pad per section, very smooth and pleasurable polishing experience. Not a lot of cut but in the right situation, I definitely want to use it again.
Hard to tell if it made coating application easier as I had never used Gyeon One to notice a difference. I think Primer is a pretty cool product; have never used Essence so I really have nothing to compare it to though.
As for CanCoat over other coatings, I`ve used it over year old Cquartz and CSL and it`s a nice easy way to refresh them.
Really nice combo to work with. Both user friendly with leaving a great look.
Glad you enjoyed it. I think it`s pretty versatile like Essence in terms of using it with a more aggressive pad to get some good correction out of it. I was able to get some good correction with a Rupes Green Pad and both Essence and Q2 Primer were enough to remove light to moderate defects. Of course the hardness of the paint will factor in as well. Primer is easier to use compared to Essence from personal experience.
Even Gyeon Polish is a pleasure to work with.
I have some left over Syncro. Is it ok to apply it on chrome trim/grill or anywhere else? I don`t want it to go to waste. I would apply it to my wheels but I already have Gyeon Rim on it already. :)
Going to try the Syncro Kit on my wife`s next car which we will be buying soon. Just wish Skin was available as a stand alone product too.
I am not Jeff but I applied it to every surface other than trim, glass and wheels on my dad`s car. So the plastic chrome and the brushed aluminum trim around the glass received a nice coat of Syncro.
2015 Impala with Gyeon Syncro (MOHS + Skin)
Thank you!
MOHS is a PHPS (Silazane) based coating. By nature the layer of material will be "thinner" than a highly concentrated SiO2 based coating, however it does not shrink! That is very important! So 2 layers of MOHS is best. A single layer will result in less protection (the ability of the coating layer to withstand penetration from UV and chemical damage) and durability, but still function.
So you can apply Mohs Base Layer and Skin Layer on All Surfaces other than the rubber and unpainted plastic trim pieces?
Example
Painted Panels
Painted Plastic Trim (the for show fake vents on a stinger hood)
Chrome Painted Plastic (Dark Chrome on a Stinger GT Grille and Mirrors)
and the Glass (Wouldnt use Gyeon View Instead for this?)
Just cant use it on plastic and rubber panels for which you`d use Gyeon Trim?
Thanks new to this trying to decide what to do ... I have a Black Kia Stinger (Hence the confusion about painted vs unpainted plastic bits)
Hey Jeff, I applied the Gyeon Syncro combo to my new vehicle yesterday. VERY pleased with the outcome. I quickly realized that if Skin wasn`t removed immediately that some streaking did occur. As a result, I have an area of streaking on the hood. How would you recommend correcting the streaks? Should I strip that area and start over completely with Mohs and Skin? Is the Gyeon Polish enough to strip the coating for another go round?
Again, Very happy with how the car turned out overall, would just like to fix the small area that streaked.
Thanks!
Matt