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  1. #181

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    Re: Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

    "WaxMode" , who is one of the forum members has 2 part series on Gliss on YouTube. Also there is a good Australian YouTube chanel called "Car Craft Auto Detailing" that did a good review on it.


    Sent from my MI MAX using Tapatalk

  2. #182

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    Re: Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

    A dumb question ... Could you do Gyeon Synrco and then apply Kamikaze overcoat over it?

  3. #183
    BudgetPlan1's Avatar
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    Re: Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

    Quote Originally Posted by KBS756 View Post
    A dumb question ... Could you do Gyeon Synrco and then apply Kamikaze overcoat over it?
    I suppose you could but you`d lose the crazy slickness and beading that the Skin component of Syncro provides.

    I certainly love me some Overcoat but in the case of Syncro, it might be a step backwards.

    When I did Syncro, didn`t even top with Cure for fear of losing that Skin goodness.

  4. #184

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    Re: Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

    But since you cant get Skin separately you cant retop that right?

    Thanks tho

    I`m completely new to this could you answer this for me

    So you can apply Mohs Base Layer and Skin Layer on All Surfaces other than the rubber and unpainted plastic trim pieces?

    Example
    Painted Panels
    Painted Plastic Trim (the for show fake vents on a stinger hood)
    Chrome Painted Plastic (Dark Chrome on a Stinger GT Grille and Mirrors)
    and the Glass [Windshield windows Sunroof] (Wouldnt use Gyeon View Instead for this?)

    Just cant use it on plastic and rubber panels for which you`d use Gyeon Trim?

    Thanks new to this trying to decide what to do ... I have a Black Kia Stinger (Hence the confusion about painted vs unpainted plastic bits)

    Thanks

  5. #185
    BudgetPlan1's Avatar
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    Re: Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

    Quote Originally Posted by KBS756 View Post
    But since you cant get Skin separately you cant retop that right?
    It certainly is an interesting situation; I wouldn`t hesitate to top it once (if) Skin loses some of its uniqueness.


    Quote Originally Posted by KBS756

    I`m completely new to this could you answer this for me

    So you can apply Mohs Base Layer and Skin Layer on All Surfaces other than the rubber and unpainted plastic trim pieces?

    Example
    Painted Panels
    Painted Plastic Trim (the for show fake vents on a stinger hood)
    Chrome Painted Plastic (Dark Chrome on a Stinger GT Grille and Mirrors)
    and the Glass [Windshield windows Sunroof] (Wouldnt use Gyeon View Instead for this?)

    Just cant use it on plastic and rubber panels for which you`d use Gyeon Trim?

    Thanks new to this trying to decide what to do ... I have a Black Kia Stinger (Hence the confusion about painted vs unpainted plastic bits)

    Thanks
    Actually, I never realized Mohs (or Skin) could be used on trim and such. Interesting.

    I dunno about windshield and other glass, though.

  6. #186
    rlmccarty2000's Avatar
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    Re: Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

    I’ve found that most coatings work very well on plastics. Unless they say not to be used on plastics I use them on plastics and no problems yet. Some even say to use on glass although I have been afraid to do so, but I really see no problem with doing so. I’ve always wondered about the McKees and PBL coatings and having separate formulas for paint, glass, plastic, wheels. I have a feeling it may be more marketing and selling more products than “special” formulations. I could be wrong but I would like some proof. We take the manufacturers word as gospel on a lot of products.
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  7. #187

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    Re: Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

    Quote Originally Posted by rlmccarty2000 View Post
    I’ve found that most coatings work very well on plastics. Unless they say not to be used on plastics I use them on plastics and no problems yet. Some even say to use on glass although I have been afraid to do so, but I really see no problem with doing so. I’ve always wondered about the McKees and PBL coatings and having separate formulas for paint, glass, plastic, wheels. I have a feeling it may be more marketing and selling more products than “special” formulations. I could be wrong but I would like some proof. We take the manufacturers word as gospel on a lot of products.
    I agree. I have some McKees V1 paint coating left over after I went with V2. I use it up on wheels and glass all the time. I even use it on bathroom mirrors and home windows. Works great. When using the v2, I use it on paint, glass, and wheels. No problems. But I`m just a weekend hobbyist doing the 4 family cars. To me, protection is protection. It`s got to be better than the guys who neglect their cars and go to the tunnel swirl-O-matic.

    On another subject, I live in an ultra - high UV place--PHX AZ. It is unbelievable how folks out here neglect their cars and have clear coat failure. Cars that are 5 years old with failure all over them. All someone needs to do is spend 15 dollars a year on a waterless wash concentrate and 18 dollars every 5 years on a Duragloss / Collinite / Put your favorite product name here - and spend 1 hour every 6 months putting the stuff on. Not only does it look great and give protection, it helps maintain value. I don`t get it. Asian imports are the worst. Especially Nissan and Toyota. UV eats them alive if not protected.
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  8. #188
    BudgetPlan1's Avatar
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    Re: Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

    Quick Update: Wandered by the vans done w/ Syncro and Kamikaze. Kamikaze is overall much cleaner and shinier (especially from 5ft); about 5500 miles since application, no maintenance since that time. Water spots on Kami vehicle removed with a very light wipe, Syncro spots require more persistence to remove. Once cleaned, Syncro remains nicely slick.

    Syncro:


    Kamikaze:
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  9. #189

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    Re: Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

    Quote Originally Posted by BudgetPlan1 View Post
    ... Water spots on Kami vehicle removed with a very light wipe, Syncro spots require more persistence to remove. Once cleaned, Syncro remains nicely slick.
    When you say "wipe" do you mean with soft dry towel or used with a spray of sorts?

    ks
    2002 2V, Twin 60`s, Pi Heads, E85
    902HP @ 32psi, Silver Fox 4R70, Full Length 2.5" Exhaust, Mustang Dyno.



  10. #190
    BudgetPlan1's Avatar
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    Re: Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

    Quote Originally Posted by KEVINS View Post
    When you say "wipe" do you mean with soft dry towel or used with a spray of sorts?

    ks
    Nothing so technical as that...


    Figure I`ve used so many SiO2 products in the last year, it seeps outta my pores.
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  11. #191
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    Re: Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

    Budget---reading thru all your post when I started into this sealant stuff---it always seemed Kamikaze was your go to product, so taking your advice i went with them full in for my new truck, and I cannot be happier--the stuff is awesome and simple to apply!!! All my cars will have the Kamikaze treatment
    2018 F-150 "Limited"
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  12. #192

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    Re: Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

    That was a big difference between kamikaze and Syncro judgeing by the pictures in self cleaning ability!

    What do you think is that does this awesome self cleaning ability?
    Did you do this truck with the miyabi + ISM + Infinity + Overcoat?
    I think that you wrote you are doing this combo most because of the look it gets you on your personal cars. But when it comes down to the self cleaning ability do you think it`s the Overcoat that is the magic? Cause using this as a stand alone protection with the claimed longevity of 3-6 months. And maybe around 2 months with real world and don`t let it degrade. This would be an awesome stand alone product and it seems to be that you get alot coats out of a bottle too. Or do you think that you would have to have Infinity hybrid wax as a base protection so the Overcoat excells in the self cleaning ability?

    I have read if you apply Overcoat with a DA and a soft pad you get a good filling ability from it. That claim get me thinking of testing it out as you do with Carpro Essence Plus. With a carpro glosspad and go over a lightly marred coating and see what happens.

  13. #193
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    Re: Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

    Quote Originally Posted by SWETM View Post
    That was a big difference between kamikaze and Syncro judgeing by the pictures in self cleaning ability!


    What do you think is that does this awesome self cleaning ability?
    While I do believe that the majority of the self-cleaning comes from the Overcoat in normal usage, some of the longer-term, less maintained vehicles I’ve done with a variety of the Kamikaze stuff *can’t* have any Overcoat left on them at this point. Specifically, I did a co-workers, black 2007 Ford Focus, Kamikaze Miyabi + ISM + Overcoat applied 10/2017. I see this car every day when I come to work and while it is washed *very* infrequently, it still looks great (relatively, anyway, as a black 2007 Ford Focus that is used as a ‘baby transport’ can only look so good). It’s self cleaning ability is still one of the best in the parking lot, which also has cars done in Gyeon Mohs + Booster, 22ple HPC, Gyeon One, Gyeon Prime as well as the work vans done with about 10 other coating products. The Escort still sheets nicely and remains nice looking even though the Overcoat I used immediately after coating application must have worn off by now.

    Although I have absolutely no scientific evidence to back it up, I think perhaps the lower water contact angle of ISM (and lower water contact angle in general of a given product) lends itself better to self cleaning aspects of a given product…just my completely amateurish and quite possibly flawed opinion. Perhaps higher water contact angles (as noted with Syncro) make for more visually stimulating beading and movement of those beads across a surface but perhaps at the expense of self cleaning? Heck I dunno.

    Water Contact angle of different coatings:
    Gyeon Prime:
    CONTACT ANGLE: >110`

    Gyeon CanCoat:
    CONTACT ANGLE: 100`

    Gyeon Mohs:
    CONTACT ANGLE: >105`

    Gyeon Syncro:
    CONTACT ANGLE: >120`

    Kamikaze Miyabi
    Water contact angle: 95 degrees


    Kamikaze ISM
    Water contact angle: 105 degrees

    Kamikaze Infinity Wax
    Water contact angle: 110-120 degrees

    Kamikaze Overcoat:
    Water contact angle: 110 degrees

    Quote Originally Posted by SWETM View Post
    Did you do this truck with the miyabi + ISM + Infinity + Overcoat?
    Yep, that’s what is on this truck; looking back thru notes, this was:
    Van 1: Kamikaze Miyabi x 2, ISM x 1, Infinity Wax x 1, Overcoat applied 02/08/2018.

    It was then left to sit in warehouse untouched until the end of March when most of our Techs came back and the Van began being used…so it did have the benefit of an extensive curing time before being released into the wild.

    Quote Originally Posted by SWETM View Post
    I think that you wrote you are doing this combo most because of the look it gets you on your personal cars. But when it comes down to the self cleaning ability do you think it`s the Overcoat that is the magic? Cause using this as a stand alone protection with the claimed longevity of 3-6 months. And maybe around 2 months with real world and don`t let it degrade. This would be an awesome stand alone product and it seems to be that you get alot coats out of a bottle too. Or do you think that you would have to have Infinity hybrid wax as a base protection so the Overcoat excels in the self cleaning ability?
    While I combine the products to get a specific look (in my mind anyway), the foundation of my affinity for Kamikaze has always been its performance with regards to the self-cleaning aspect. I don’t really care much about crazy beading and such, more of a sheeting guy, and one aspect of Kamikaze that seems to compliment this desire is its tendency to produce somewhat small beads that kinda shrink up and dry in the sun, leaving very little trace on the surface. Mostly I think it’s the Overcoat but I think the underlying coatings (Miyabi and ISM) contribute to this as well, given the long term excellent self-cleaning on cars where the Overcoat musta worn off long ago.

    Overcoat certainly extends and enhances that, though, as when I first used it back in Summer 2016 on our then Wolfgang Uber Ceramic coated Corvette; immediately following Overcoat application the black car started staying much, much cleaner…and hence I was sucked into the world of Kamikaze due to its propensity to keep cars cleaner with less maintenance. Although I’ve never tried the Infinity Wax/Overcoat combo, I’d guess it would be a pretty solid combo, albeit not as strong as putting one of the coatings under Overcoat.

    Once thing that I did notice with the Infinity Wax was that self-cleaning aspects decreased a bit until I got it buried under Overcoat, perhaps due to its hybrid carnauba content? Dunno, it just kinda adds a look I like to the paint as well as giving me something to do that remains within the theory of ‘product synergy’. Sometimes it’s just fun to wax a car…

    Quote Originally Posted by SWETM View Post
    I have read if you apply Overcoat with a DA and a soft pad you get a good filling ability from it. That claim get me thinking of testing it out as you do with Carpro Essence Plus. With a carpro glosspad and go over a lightly marred coating and see what happens.
    While I did do that once, if you’re looking for a glaze-type filling ability I don’t think that Overcoat will provide that level of ‘enhancement’. Don’t know what’s actually in Overcoat besides the vendor description of “The special formulation of hard resin and Siloxane…” but its primary function for me is protection and self-cleaning and, in the end, however it does that is OK with me.

    It would be interesting to find the specs on 22ple HPC as it is another one of my favorites, again, mostly because of its ability to keep itself clean with little outside intervention, even over the long haul. 22ple is a really weird company though, almost reluctant to step out into public view so I’d guess I’ll never really know the details of their products. It’s really great stuff and I enjoy using it on occasions where color or vehicle might be complimented by its ‘molten glass’ look…just wish the company was a little more ‘open and available’ but I do seem to like smaller, more niche-like products/mfg’s so it comes with the territory I guess.

    As an aside, I did find something on Instagram that I found interesting just from a ‘How It’s Made’ perspective. No big factories here, just a table some bottles and a funnel:
    Kamikaze Production: https://www.instagram.com/stories/hi...2172825136397/

    I do quite like Syncro…it’s a really great product and many might prefer it in ‘normal’ situations, where a car is regularly maintained. The slickness is still apparent after 5500 miles and it seems to have no staining/spotting while the bead behavior is the best I have seen anywhere. For folks who dig slickness, I’m not sure it can be beat as a coating alone. Some toppers *might* be able to match its slickness but I’m not even sure any of those (that I have tried) come close.

    In the end, everyone is different, everyone likes different aspects of given products...it`s nice to know that I have 3 distinct options for varying situations and needs. I am under no illusion that what I like is the best thing in the world, but I really do believe it is the best thing for me. At this point I`ve seen it through low mileage, high-exposure situations (car sits outside 85% of the time), low mileage, low exposure situations (summer hobby car), high exposure, high mileage situations (17k miles, 6 months, freeway commute thru winter), decent maintenance situations (washed somewhat regularly), low mileage, no maintenance situations (5k miles, no washing) and at the end of summer I`ll have evidence of how it works on high mileage, no maintenance situations (20k miles, no washing). From a `looks good` with minimal effort standpoint, Kamikaze and 22ple fit the bill. The ability to tailor the look of Kamikaze thru the combination of several products within the same `Collection` is a hoot for a hobbyist as well.
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  14. #194
    rlmccarty2000's Avatar
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    Re: Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

    I think you may have something on lower contact angle being better. Contact angle is not even given (unless I missed it) for toppers like Skin, Topcoat 1.0, and Gliss. The slicker the coating the lower the contact angle = less beading may be the takeaway.

    It looks like a new coating is hitting the market almost weekly. I used to try to keep up with the manufacturers, but there is no way now. I looked on eBay for ‘ceramic coatings” and was surprised at the list. Prices are crazy too. I’m still trying to decide if a $5 Coating is better than a good sealant. It’s a new world.
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  15. #195
    Mike The Guz's Avatar
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    Re: Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

    Quote Originally Posted by rlmccarty2000 View Post
    I think you may have something on lower contact angle being better. Contact angle is not even given (unless I missed it) for toppers like Skin, Topcoat 1.0, and Gliss. The slicker the coating the lower the contact angle = less beading may be the takeaway.

    It looks like a new coating is hitting the market almost weekly. I used to try to keep up with the manufacturers, but there is no way now. I looked on eBay for ‘ceramic coatings” and was surprised at the list. Prices are crazy too. I’m still trying to decide if a $5 Coating is better than a good sealant. It’s a new world.
    The contact angle for Skin is 120 as it`s part of the syncro kit which includes Mohs which is at 105. Gliss is 110 as it`s stated right on the box.

    The beading for syncro is pretty awesome though.
    Competition Ready Team 1929 Bentley
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