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  1. #31
    BudgetPlan1's Avatar
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    Re: What coating to try next...

    Quote Originally Posted by BudgetPlan1 View Post
    I talked to them yesterday, began the process to see if I can get a hold of some. Initially it looks like it may be a winner if it performs as advertised. Of course, the world would be a much better place if everything worked as advertised. Nice folks too.
    Got some of the Pearl Nano base/topcoat/glass coating on the way...great bunch of folks there.

    Based on the some limited use in rain & snow and just general appearance of the completed vehicles, so far I like:

    1. Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light + Liquid Crystal c2v3 = Looks the glossiest, has kept itself the cleanest. Darkened the paint a bit (bright red)
    2. Gyeon Mohs, 2 layers + Cure = Looks nice and glossy but less so than the CSL. A bit less `self-cleaning` than the CSL as well; rain did not start sliding off the hood until around 50mph.
    3. CQuartz = Looks OK, not quite as glossy as the above 2. Dunno...just not as `inspiring` as the above 2.

    Sitting on my desk and ready to go:
    - 22ple HPC
    - The Gloss Shop Ceramic Coating
    - Gyeon Booster (which I`ll likely use over McKees 37 Paint Coating)

    On the way:
    - Pearl Nano

    Winter has returned to NE Ohio and despite being able to work in a heated warehouse, likely won`t get back to correcting/coating and vehicles until next week. All I wanna do after work in this weather is go the heck home.

  2. #32
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    Re: What coating to try next...

    Pearl Nano done; nice stuff application/I it is appearance-wise.

    The Pearl Nano looked a bit nicer/glossier this morning after curing since Saturday. Not the slickest of finishes, much like some of the other coatings can be.

    Snatched up some final items to finish up the coatings `experience`; leaves me with the following yet to do:

    2010 Ford E250 van in a dark crimson metallic: Probably 2 coats of Gloss Shop Ceramic Coating

    2016 Ford Transit Extended Van in bright red: 2 layers 22ple HPC

    2104 Ford E250 Van in bright red: 2 layers Gyeon Prime.

    Gonna have bits of some coatings left so I`ll probably pick a vehicle and do separate panels each using a bit of all the coatings except Gyeon Mohs which I used all up.

    Still gotta figure out what to do with the Gyeon Booster...maybe original idea of using over McKees Paint Coating.

    That extended transit van is gonna suck but can probably get away with a one step with Menz 2400 or M205.
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  3. #33

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    Re: What coating to try next...

    I will be going with Polish Angel Viking topped with spritz.

  4. #34
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    Re: What coating to try next...

    The CQuartz probably needs some Reset or Gyeon Booster on top to give it more hydrophobic abilities to match the others.

  5. #35
    BudgetPlan1's Avatar
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    Re: What coating to try next...

    Quote Originally Posted by dennis hiip View Post
    I will be going with Polish Angel Viking topped with spritz.
    Would love to give it a try but a bit too costly to include in this grouping.

    Will maybe give it a try on a vehicle `that matters` some day.

    Have some High Gloss so realize that PA makes some good stuff but in Kamikaze neighborhood, cost wise.

    Maybe it is the cost but I just really aren`t that ?interested? in Polish Angel for some reason I can`t quite put my finger on. I dunno why, really.

    Quote Originally Posted by rlmccarty2000 View Post
    The CQuartz probably needs some Reset or Gyeon Booster on top to give it more hydrophobic abilities to match the others.
    Used Gyeon Cure as a `Reload substitute` after Cquartz application to give it a bit protection while it cured for a few days. The CSL got C2V3 in a like manner, the Mohs and Prime got/will get Cure after application and the 22ple will receive V1.

    The others really don`t mention a specific sacrificial layer to protect after application so guess they`ll get nothing...

  6. #36
    BudgetPlan1's Avatar
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    Re: What coating to try next...

    Crap...sucked in by the FLASH25 sale e-mail I rec`d at 12:10am...add Dr. Beasley`s Nano-Coating to the list. Gonna likely end up with a bunch of coatings will a little leftover in each bottle. Will have to pick out a vehicle and do 1 panel in each leftover coating; that should look interesting by the end of summer....probably try to let absolutely NOTHING touch that patchwork vehicle except for rain and see what happens.

    Dr. Beasley’s Nano-Resin Hydrophobic Coating


    Nano-Resin is a semi-permanent ceramic paint coating designed to provide the longest lasting paint protection possible. It provides a durable, hydrophobic barrier which will last 2-3 years. Once your vehicle has been coated with Nano-Resin it will be protected from marring, staining, UV damage, and damage from airborne contaminants. And not only will it protect the paint surface, but it will give the vehicle a hyper reflective gloss beyond anything a wax or sealant could provide.


    Many other coatings contain harsh chemicals which can be damaging to your health. You can tell just by smelling them. You`ll notice that Nano-Resin doesn`t have that same chemical smell that other paint coatings have. Dr. Beasley’s formulated a coating product without using harsh chemicals other ceramic coatings rely on, so you don`t have to worry about your health or the environmental impact of the product you`re using.


    Technical Information: Nano Resin`s water contact angle is 110 degrees. One layer of this coating is approximately 2 microns thick. Nano Resin`s pH tolerance is 11.


    Directions
    Before applying Nano Resin, paint must be prepped. Clay and polish your paint with a light compound and a random orbital machine buffer. If your paint is heavily scratched, more polishing will be required.


    Mix one part isopropyl alcohol (IPA) with four parts water in a spray bottle. Spray and wipe the entire vehicle with your IPA solution.


    Wrap the suede cloth around the foam block applicator and apply ~10 drops of Nano on the cloth in a line.


    Start by applying Nano in vertical lines down the panel. After you`ve covered your panel with vertical lines, go back and repeat with horizontal lines. This will ensure full coverage. Avoid getting the product in panel gaps.


    When you see the product flashing (it will appear slightly iridescent), wipe the panel with a clean, dry, tagless microfiber towel.


    Repeat steps 4-5 on each panel until your entire vehicle is protected. Reapply several drops of Nano on your applicator after a few panels.


    After coating your entire vehicle, leave it undisturbed for one hour.
    Additional Information:
    Do NOT apply Nano-Resin in direct sunlight. Do not allow this product to freeze during storage.


    If applied in temperatures less than 65-70⁰ the vehicle may need more flash time. In warmer, more arid climates Nano-Resin will need less flash time.


    Inspect the vehicle in natural light for a better view of high spots.


    Keep vehicle completely dry between applications and for at least 1 hour after final application. After 1 hour the vehicle can be exposed to light rain without affecting the bonding process.


    Full cure will take 24-48 hours. After fully cured the surface will be noticeably glossier and the coating will be at full hardness.


    Leaving the vehicle in the sun or under infrared lamps after application will shorten the amount of time needed for Nano-Resin to bond to the paint surface.


    Avoid washing the vehicle with soap for 7 days after application. After this follow our prescribed maintenance regimen.

  7. #37

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    Re: What coating to try next...

    Quote Originally Posted by BudgetPlan1 View Post

    The others really don`t mention a specific sacrificial layer to protect after application so guess they`ll get nothing...
    First off I want to personally thank you for the support! The only thing I suggest with The Gloss Shop Ceramic Coating is to allow 24 hours before exposing to water. If you decide to apply a second layer, it is recommended to wait 12 hours. I have layered after 1-2 hours with no adverse affects. Pay attention to temperature and application time. If the residue becomes too tacky during removal then cut your time down or reduce the work area. A final wipe with a higher nap towel after 2 hours is recommended but do so gently.

    You can message me here, on Facebook, or Instagram if you need assistance. If you have an iPhone you can text me via iMessage or FaceTime.

    Thanks,
    Richard
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  8. #38
    BudgetPlan1's Avatar
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    Re: What coating to try next...

    Quote Originally Posted by rlmccarty2000 View Post
    The CQuartz probably needs some Reset or Gyeon Booster on top to give it more hydrophobic abilities to match the others.
    Finally got a chance to get an extended look at the Cquartz vehicle in the sun today next to Mohs and Pearl Nano vehicles; it looked the `candiest` look in those conditions. The Mohs and Pearl looked more deep and warm in comparison.

    Me eyes are getting crossed trying to discern minute differences in the bright red vehicles. Starting tomorrow on an older van with dark maroon metallic paint. Will get the Gloss Shop Ceramic Coating.

    Will just need medium and fine compound/polish. One side is in *really* good shape as it was completely redone last October after a Tech peeled the passenger side off going thru a drive thru. So that`ll be easy.
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  9. #39
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    Re: What coating to try next...

    Used The Gloss Shop Ceramic coating today. Indoors, about 67 degrees. Used a block/suede cloth to apply as opposed to enclosed microfiber applicator...just more familiar. It seemed to go a pretty long way, guess I used about 20ml to do one layer of Ford E250 panel van...lotsa painted area to cover for sure. Thicker consistency right outta the bottle (thankfully one of those `dropper top` bottles so no fumbling with separate eye dropper) but spread smooth and far. Seemed around 1:30 was a good wipe off interval. A bit tacky on removal but nothing unusual.

    Varied wipe off time from about 1 -5 minutes a few times, no lasting I`ll effects, always removed as could be expected.

    Seems to be more of a candy type of gloss initially, paint dark brown/burgandy metallic...looked really nice in the `good spots` of the vehicles. For some reason reminded me of root beer.

    Anyway, will probably drop anther coat firs thing tomorrow morning to see what happens.

    As it is, if durability is near advertised, this will be a very good option at an exceptional price/coverage.

    We shall see...

    I think Gyeon Prime is likely next...
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  10. #40

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    Re: What coating to try next...

    Thanks for sharing keep us updated


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #41
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    Re: What coating to try next...

    Quote Originally Posted by BudgetPlan1 View Post
    Used The Gloss Shop Ceramic coating today.

    Anyway, will probably drop anther coat first thing tomorrow morning to see what happens.
    2nd coat this morning, about 12 hrs later. Increased gloss a bit, went even further than yesterday. Ended up using about 75% of 50ml bottle to do 2 coats on Ford Econoline E250 van. Went with pretty consistent 3:45-4:00 minute intervals between beginning section and wipe off, bit cooler around 62 degrees this morning. Seemed to wipe off a bit easier...but that could be due to being 2nd coat as well. All in all, quite pleased considering how far it goes and reasonable cost.

    Looks nice so far...for a van with 100k + miles.

    Starting 2016 Ford Transit Extended Van today...also give me chance to try recently rec`d Sonax Perfect Finish with the Flex, figure a LC Orange Hybrid Force Pad (will try white first) as this van is in pretty good shape; then 2 coats of Gyeon Prime. Likely be last van until mid-april when I try Dr. Beasley`s Nano Resin (or perhaps break van up into 8 panels/sections and try a different coating on each panel; i have leftovers of all except Gyeon Mohs)

    In between, owner here hinted that his new 2017 Ruby Red Ford Explorer will be sitting idle in warehouse next week "If I wanna work on a car for a change..."; probably 22ple HPC for that.

    Weather looking up for next week or so here so the days of correcting/coating work vans is drawing to a close...my credit card will be thankful but it`s been kinda entertaining trying all these coatings. For some reason, I still like Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light + Liquid Crystal c2v3 best for reasons I can`t explain. Will have to try to get all coated vehicles washed and lined up some day in the sun and see how they all look next to each other.

    Cars will seem so small after all of this, especially after this weeks extended Ford Transit van.
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  12. #42

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    Re: What coating to try next...

    The cars will be like matchbox after working on all those vans and trucks. Look forward to results
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  13. #43
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    Re: What coating to try next...

    Quote Originally Posted by HCF View Post
    The cars will be like matchbox after working on all those vans and trucks. Look forward to results
    Boy, sure looking forward to that. Figure I got about 2 more vans in me and that`ll about do it as far as coating guinea pigs go. Started decon on the Transit Extended van today; thank God for Nanoskin Prep mitts...that roof alone is endless. Claying that thing would take forever folding, kneading and so forth.

    All the Service Techs come back next week so I`ll be able to start seeing how stuff holds up in actual use.

    Has been nice working in a spacious warehouse as opposed to my garage; electricity, compressed air, water sources everywhere in addition to SPACE...lotsa space for tables, carts and stuff.
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  14. #44
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    Re: What coating to try next...

    Finally some decent rain; the below pics show the hoods of various vehicles, none of which have been washed (or touched in any way) since coating application. Vehicles have been likely driven less than 250 miles since coating other wise have spent all their time sitting outside in parking lot.

    Gtechniq Crystal Serum light w/ Liquid Crystal C2V3 (applied maybe 3 weeks ago)


    Gyeon Mohs (2 layers) w/ Gyeon Cure as part of Mohs application (applied around 2/23/2017)


    CQuartz (Classic?) + Gyeon Cure as part of application (applied around mid January I believe)


    Pearl Nano Base + Top Coat (applied 3/19/2017)


    As far as slickness (as carefully and scientifically tested by me blowing lightly on the hood and watching water disperse) appears to be (best to worse):

    1. CSL
    2. Pearl Nano
    3. Gyeon Mohs
    4. Cquartz

    The next victim is the below van; pretty good shape overall, just a few deeper (catch a fingernail) scratches. Will probably keep the GG6 out w/ D300 and microfiber cutting discs for spots here and there that `need a little more` and go over whole thing using Sonax Perfect Finish w/ Flex 3401, Lake County Force Hybrid white pad. Tried a few spots this morning, orange pad v. white pad and may as well just go for the white (speed 5 on Flex, 4 medium pressure passes, 2 light pressure) or until the SPF turns almost clear and appears to be completely worked through its cycle. That`s gonna tire me out, especially if I use the 6.5" Force pads with all the `up above your head, down to the floor` nature of these ^%$#@ vans...but it`s all I got right now. Would love to be able to knock it out after work today and coat with 2 coats of Gyeon Prime tomorrow night but I dunno...might be a tall order with the Flex and wanna go slow to insure fully working through the SPF cycle.


    Coating Stash (thankfully a few different sites have been doing 20-25% off lately)


    Kinda looking forward to the 22ple...not much banter about it lately and it is a bit `up there` in terms of cost; HPC is their `mid-level` offering:
    $ - VX3 Signature Glass Coating
    $$ - HPC High Performance Coating
    $$$ - VX Pro2 Glass Coating

    The Gloss Shop Ceramic van will be released into the wild tomorrow after I give it a bit `o Gyeon Cure to protect it as it fully cures.

    Getting kinda weary as, while interesting and entertaining, it`s tough to work all day, then turn attention to vehicles at night and then go home and do the `detailing laundry`. Lately have been getting here around 4am to get a bit of work done on vehicles before workday starts at 6am which will usually get me outta here around 7pm after resuming work on vehicles at 3pm each day. The prep/decon on some of these is pretty bad w/ years of tar, tree sap and other nonsense on lower body panels. Add in the tire scrubbing/prep (usually 4 cycles per tire to get clean) prior to Tuff Shine application and the plastic trim prep/coating (just discovered WETS) and I`m slowing down a bit.

    The plus side is a lot or time with the Flex and Rupes (getting better with them), getting to see the shiny vehicles each day and getting to try a lot of different products. One of our Service Managers just picked up a newer Toyata Camry and asked if I could do to it "What you`ve been doing to the vans...". Sure, I say...could likely take care of the entire roof of a Camry in 4 section passes w/ a big pad in the Flex.
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  15. #45
    BudgetPlan1's Avatar
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    Re: What coating to try next...

    22ple HPC...well, this was interesting. Got a chance to try this coating yesterday.

    Cliff Notes: Kinda strange application characteristics but overall is blindingly easy, product is forgiving as all get out with respect to removal, very high gloss and very slick.



    Product Description:
    This coating utilizes silica powder which is significantly more expensive than liquid silica and delivers superior performance. On top of utilizing silica powder, HPC features a unique formulation of high grade fluorine. What does all this mean? The powdered silica improves the already outstanding 22ple gloss and the high grade fluorine gives amazing water beading results. This takes coatings to a new level and will really make your paint stand out against the rest. Gloss, gloss, gloss and more gloss! Your car will look like it is entirely coated in glass! Prior to coating be sure to thoroughly clean an polish the paint because HPC will last 3 ~ 4 years. Approximately 20-25 ml is recommended for a mid/large size car.
    The victim was yet another fleet vehicle, a 2016 Ford Transit-250 Extended Cargo Van. Pretty good shape so just went over it with Sonax Perfect Finish, Flex 3401 w/ LC Force Hybrid white pad, then prepped by going over twice with Gyeon Prep.

    Application was odd, for me in this case anyway. I began applying with Gyeon foam block/microsuede applicator cloth. I did have the recommended 22ple applicator block (below; had to purchase seperately for $5 as no applicator is included with product) but the thing is so small I figured I`d be there forever:


    Anyway, the HPC didn`t apply very smoothly using the Gyeon block/cloth; initial contact with the surface and a loaded applicator/cloth was very grabby and uneven, even after the block/cloth got a bit saturated on successive panels. Each section the first swipes seemed to flash nearly immediately but you were able to eventually smooth/distribute the product evenly on each panel; it just din`t have that `gliding` feel as most coatings do. Possibly due to the fluorine in the product? Have heard the same anecdotal experience of quick flashing with Gyeon Booster which is fluorine based? I dunno, I ain`t no chemist, all I know is it did not have a smooth, gliding application using the block/microsuede cloth deal.

    So I decided to give the 22ple applicator block a try. It certainly applied smoother bu the very thin layer gray of whatever it is that touches the paint would `catch` very easily if not perfectly flat on surface; almost fumbled/dropped this a few times. At this point I had also increased my `arm speed` of application to help with the quick flashing of the initial swipe. Still not confident of easy, even coverage I grabbed one of those yellow/gray LC applicator blocks and gave it a try:


    OK...now we`re getting somewhere...easy to hold, doesn`t try to fold under as easily as the 22ple block...horrible screeching noise at times as it moves over the paint but if applying quickly enough, good, even application...`quickly` being the operative word when I was applying the HPC. Best method came to be dropping about 6 to 8 drops on the applicator and then going over a panel or section as quickly as I could, back and forth, up and down. It was actually near frantic but the product was forgiving enough that once spread on the panel could be gone over a few times to even out the coverage. For whatever reason, a slower `first wipe` with a freshly loaded applicator wasn`t smooth or even but if ya hit the panel running and continued with quick movements, it all came out very evenly. And because of whatever chemistry is involved in this product, removal intervals were pretty much irrelevant (within reason of course...guessing coming back an hour later might lead to issues).

    Anyway, once I got going I was able to apply to the entire top half of one side of the van, wander around a bit congratulating myself on how skillful I was, and then remove the flashed product. Wipe off was ridiculously easy using a Gyeon Polish Wipe towel, not much pressure needed, no pushing any coating residue to adjacent panel...stuff removed pretty much like a sealant or liquid wax. Followed up with a light buff using another towel and was left with a very slick, very glossy surface. Will do second coat about 20hrs after initial, perhaps it will glide more during application. Will then follow up with 22ple VS1 Final Coat and call it a day. And a month. And quite possibly a year when it comes to working on vans.

    At around a list price of around $110 for 30ml, certainly not the cheapest game in town so we`ll see if effectiveness and longevity justify the higher initial price point. Wasn`t sure if I was gonna have enough (started with two 30ml bottles) to do entire van twice so I used Pearl Nano on the seemingly endless roof of the van. Coating all panels once except for the roof used about 20-25ml of HPC. A 50ml bottle *might* have made it thru 2 coats on all panels but roof; it woulda been close.

    Painted surfaces look and feel great after application, can`t wait to see how it does in daily use.
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