Do coating users still like their coatins???

[cobrar97]

I recently applied a coating to my two vehicles. Over the winter months, it has performed great. Now that spring is nearly here, I`m wondering what to do.
Usually after winter, I clay (Nanoskin Autoscrab mit in my case), polish out and marring from the winter, and apply my favorite sealant. Now that I have this coating, I`ve been told that if I clay, I`ll probably need to light polish and apply 1 layer of the coating again. For the cost and finicky application process of the coating, I`m wonder if I should just go back to the sealants again.
I don`t mind applying sealant at all, and time isn`t a concern for me. My last favorite sealant was Prima Hydro Max. I would simply re-apply it every month or so.
Although I liked the coating for it`s protection properties over the winter, I`m not sure if the cost and effort are worth it. I also found, before winter came, that the coating seems a little "stickier" and not as slick as the sealants I was using. Also with the coating, I was told that quick detailers will actually take-away from it`s shine due to layering a polymer over the coating...so I couldn`t do that to get a slick finish either. With my old sealant, I could quick detail after every wash to get a slick-coat on there again.
Anyhow...I was just wondering if other coating users still liked the coatings over the sealant???

[Ronkh]

Does it need to be recoated?

What kind of coating did you use?

[tom p.]

Cquartz (UK) + RELOAD for the hassle-free win

[RobD]

You may be better off using a durable sealant like Sonax PNS. It has similar beading and dirt shedding properties, but it can be reapplied at any time. Reasonably priced, too. It`s my favorite sealant. I also use their BSD after an ONR wash as a booster. The only negative is that both products have slight learning curve. Some tips: PNS...use a MF applicator (foam can grab) and remove quickly. BSD...use a waffle weave MF instead of a terry MF (which can grab).

[cobrar97]

I used CQUK to coat it back in November.
My concern is that I need to remove winter contaminants (I use Nanoskin mitts)...and that will incur some marring to the coating. That leaves me at a point that I need to then polish. Polish will remove the coating and I`m back where I started. Wouldn`t I save $$$ by simply going back to a sealant?
Time and cost don`t matter...I want showroom shine at all times. I like the coating, but I feel that using sealant processes may actually be easier.
Tom P...I`m using the products you mentioned. How do you handle the after-winter cleanup?

[silverfox]

Coatings usually get damaged long before their technical longevity period ends. The only solution is to polish off and do over. I don`t see that as being a benefit for some people.



The best benefits of coatings are ease of post-coating maintenance....namely washing, drying for daily drivers. They offer little benefit to garage queens or anal motor heads....in fact those anal about topping a coating because it doesn`t look all that good...arr in fact wasting their time and money and are better off just playing with sealants and wax.

[flatstick]

i have been using opticoat 2.0 and am happy with it on my rides. gets me though the winter road salt and stays easy to maintain the rest of the year. especially nice to have on your wheels, making washing them a breeze, while protecting from brakedust.

[David Fermani]

My concern is that I need to remove winter contaminants (I use Nanoskin mitts)...and that will incur some marring to the coating. That leaves me at a point that I need to then polish. Polish will remove the coating and I`m back where I started.

Just do a decon wash and you`ll be fine. No marring incurred and it should not only clean off the contaminants, but also revive the beading characteristics.

[TroyScherer]

I have used OC, CQ, CQUK.

With all of them you CAN use a QD if you want to get that slick feeling. The only thing is it "might" mask some of the water and dirt shedding properties but with a QD that is a very limited time and really not an issue. The slick feeling is more out our own tactile desire not a requirement for the protection. If you want to use something. Better use Reload as it is made to work with CQ coatings. I also really like Sonax BSD.

For or my post winter clean up the best way I have found it do do a Decon wash. FinishKare has a Decon system that works. But I usually use car wash w/ APC, then IronX, TarX. This usually removes everything. If there is anything left that need clay I reach for Sonus Mild clay and I only spot clay. This gets the job done and sonus clay is so mild it doesn`t marr.

if you are always looking for a slick showroom shine I don`t think a longer term coating is for you. A sealant and wax is the ticket IMO. I simply don`t care for waxes anymore have moved one to coatings that these new spray sealant / coatings.

[Accumulator]

..For or my post winter clean up the best way I have found it do do a Decon wash. FinishKare has a Decon system that works..

I too am a big fan of decon washes when they`re needed, but I`d recommend that people use the ValuGard ABC system instead of the FK. No, not hating on the FK, I have it on the shelf, but you gotta be a *LOT* more careful with it lest you damage the vehicle or yourself or your environment. The ABC stuff OTOH is basically foolproof and safe as such stuff could possibly be.

Any yeah, agree 100% about the Sonus SFX clay, I pretty much spot-clay with it at every wash.

[TroyScherer]

^ I was thinking the ValuGard system but couldn`t think of it at the time and knew AG sold the FK stuff. But great points Accumulator. The VG system is something I have been meaning to pick up and have on hand.

[Accumulator]

TroyScherer- After using the FK stuff the ValuGard might strike you as really, REALLY, *REALLY* underpowered. For good reason and all...but just a heads-up. Ketcham kept telling me how lucky I`d been to *not* damage anything with the FK (and he oughta know, having been at both companies) and I finally decided I`d better just stick with the VG before I had a "told ya so!"-moment.

With the ABC, well...stuff just doesn`t get dissolved !right now! the way it can with the FK and sometimes a little mechanical agitation is called for (the VG Bug Pad surprised me, thought I`d hate it but it`s OK).

And while I`m no tree-hugger, the stuff in the FK really does pose runoff concerns, besides smelling kinda nasty even by my (not-so-easily offended) standards.

[Detail Impressions]

I suggest staying with the complete line of the product coating you applied (CarPro) They have a complete system to work together so you get aprox. 2 years from the coating.

I understand your feeling after coating, I did both of my cars. A big change from the way I did things before.
Seems to easy just to decon/wash and relaod or what ever QD you like. And your good to go.
Customers love the freedom and look of coatings. times have changed, old ways still work but technology pushes forward.

[cobrar97]

I`ve never used a decon wash before. I`d always used clay and then changed to Nanoskin mit about 2 years ago. Are you saying the ValuGard ABC system will do what claying (nanoskin) will do? It will remove the after-winter bumps, water spots, and crap that washing can`t remove and after winter? If so...that`s amazing. I`d be willing to give my coating a little more time to impress me if I can easy ValuGard the vehicle to get the stuff off without marring it. Then I would be able to use Reload as my QD.
Tell me more about the ValuGard ABC...is it really that good?

[Scottwax]

Made the switch to coatings on my own cars (OC 2.0, Pro and now Gloss Coat) and I`d NEVER go back to regular polishing and resealing the paint. ONR wash, maybe occasionally spot clay lightly as needed with a clay towel and otherwise not have to mess with my car. I`ve had Gloss Coat on my Accord since July and we`ve had a much harsher than usual winter here in north Texas. Still looks like I just applied it after an ONR wash.