Originally Posted by PiPUK
I`d go so far as to say that most anybody needs a basic understanding of such stuff, never mind the tiny specialized field of auto detailing. Helps life go a lot easier...
Originally Posted by PiPUK
I`d go so far as to say that most anybody needs a basic understanding of such stuff, never mind the tiny specialized field of auto detailing. Helps life go a lot easier...
I think TOGWT hit the nail on the head with this remark (at least it rings true for me):
"I have always thought that the more facts and information you have at hand the easier it is to judge what information you are being given, all of which will help you to make an informed decision."
If anything, even when there is disagreement among contributors/"experts" (the subject of leather care is a good example), I still find some of the discussions stimulating. .....gets me thinking about some aspects of the topic I wouldn`t have previously.
Here, after the great post by Kean, is my take.
Originally Posted by Kean
"Logic dictates I have been at this detailing thing way too many years!":wink1:
A very wise and successful man told me something over a dinner we were having a few decades ago.
He said, "God gave you two ears, two eyes and one mouth. Learn that it means we should listen and look twice as much as we talk. That is how one learns and appreciates logic."
Leave you ego at the door if you wish to progress and really learn, be it business, craftsmanship or life.
No matter what you think you may have learned, today, that is past, for the most part, is behind you, the world and technolgy is moving very quickly, so learn to learn.
No matter of that which you may have thought you learned, it can become very outdated in as little as one day.
"Logic dictates I have been at this detailing thing way too many years!":wink1:
No ego here Ron. You know me better then that. Just expressing my thoughts on the OP`s original post from my hands on experience. I stated the product has worked for me for over two yrs since I first tried it.It may not be the official decon product of the big 3 but it does the job damn well. I see people everyday on forums knock a product they have never tried. How many times have we heard I`ve never used product xyz but I have heard bla bla bla. The keyboard detailers all jump in and become experts. I`m not so naive that I strike a match into a gas can to check it`s level. On the other hand when members (expert or pretend experts ) start throwing tech terms at each other in disagreement about how a product works or doesn`t work I don`t feel there is much to gain. 1. If I have a serious question about a product I contact the producer. 2. If I`m not satisfied by their answer or product it`s gone. As for a changing industry, what was leading edge 6 months ago has been replaced already in many cases.I try and avoid the flavor of the moment but keep a open mind on whats changing in the world around me.We can all agree to dis-agree but when a thread goes on for 6-8 pages or more on how dirt particles are lifted off the car with various wash medias vs others then it`s time for me to go make something shiny.
Paul Sparks
Distinctive Auto Detailing
Indianapolis IN 46234
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Distin...70659146390192
Someone had mentioned IronX fallout after a rinse from a wheel cap...
I could see how this could be a problem..
I washed my car about 2 hrs before and then, drove about 40 miles. Parked it in the sun for about 4-5 hrs...
Drove back another 40 miles or so. When I got home, I was pulling my wheels off to do some mechanicals...and there was a lil bit of water on the wheel hub after all this time and heat. So yeah, on the post of the IronX getting stuck behind a cap, I can attest to it being plausiable..
Never had issues if used per directions. Tar x on the other hand does not like clearbras as well as trix. Not my experience but a good detailing buddies bad experience. (Gave me the heads up). I don`t use either but its good info. Iron x hasn`t messed anything up unless it dries in the sun. Been using it since the iron cut days. Long ago
sent using my thumbs, mispelling most words
Byran, with out boring the hell out of everyone, there is a "rule" in the chemical world and such that is termed "reactivity", which translates to the higher the temperature the more active the chemical ingrediants become.
Think of the direction labels on laundry detergents and a washing machine, regarding hot-warm-cold water. The hotter the water or surface (in the case of paint and other surfaces that detailers come in contact with) the more "reactive" or caustic/acidic, the product will become.
Part of this is also due to heat expanding the substrate or surface, which just like cutting steel with a cutting torch, expands that substrate and weakens it, making it less dense so it may be blown away.
Much damage is done, unintentionally, by many, due to their lack of understanding of this basic fact of products that clean chemistry.
"Logic dictates I have been at this detailing thing way too many years!":wink1:
So don`t use in direct sunlight like most products say. I just keep it simple, following directions for the most part and don`t spray stuff on hot things.
sent using my thumbs, mispelling most words
Not the "sun" so much as the increase in the temperture of the suface and how that will cause the carrier solvents to flash off too quick for polishes, waxes, sealants, etc. More important when using water based products that have certain surfactant additives in them.
Makes the ingrediants much too "reactive" and may create some serious damage since the substrate is also softened and less dense due to the increased heat.
Being less "dense", (soft) it allows the chemicals to go down into the substrate.
Just starts "eating" at things it should not be eating at.
"Logic dictates I have been at this detailing thing way too many years!":wink1:
I don`t have a Horse in this Race....I do not own or have ever used such Iron dissolving products, but the last post above. Ron.....is a pretty loaded comment..I`ve read up alot of IronX as it seems like ALOT of people have replaced claying by using this in their prep process in conjunction with Nanoscrub. I`m not saying who`s wrong on right, but your last post seems to suggest that ironX is quite deadly, even with how people are currently using them in their pre-polishing process.
Originally Posted by bryansbestwax
Tar -X and Trix would be expected to cause problems. Since they use high levels of potent solvents, they will be too aggressive for use on plastic films like clear bras. This is generic of the product type. For instance, you do not use a solvent tar remover on plastic trims unless is specifically states it is ok to do so.
The potency of chemicals is often neglected. In the UK, tar removers are big business and the big detailing forums use them like they were water to drink on a hot day. There are very few who appreciate that many of the solvents they are using are also central in products like paint strippers - as before, this bit of knowledge is quite useful because it means the user will treat the product with a measure of respect.
The inherent danger of “I don’t need someone to tell me about the chemicals, I just want something that will work good”
As was alluded to on a previous post a very basic understanding of chemistry is required if you’re working with chemicals (acids, solvents, and etc) to protect not only yourself but the vehicles materials you may be working with
What gets overlooked too often is that one must be a student before becoming a teacher.
Was not referring to any single product or brand of product. I was offering some insightful information regarding any water borne chemical detailers may use. Be it an all purpose cleaner, a car wash solution, or if a polish, etc that contain some hydrocarbon based solvents in them.
Heat is something that few consider when working with detailing products until there is a concern.
"Logic dictates I have been at this detailing thing way too many years!":wink1:
Not to take this off topic, but what Tar Remover is safe for plastic.
Because the majority of tar, if I get them is wheelwheels, under the rear bumper (sometimes portions of them unpainted) and or just under the door rockers. In my case, ALL my cars have PPF under the door rockers (some less than others) due to whether there is a moulding strip on the door. All these area to me is *plastic* and these are the most common places if I was to get Tar - and I just looked at my can of Stoners Tarminator, and it says *safe for clearcoat*.
So the ? - what is safe for plastic ?
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