Quick Detailers to use with Wolfgang DGPS v3.0?

[Inzane]

I finally got around to detailing my 335i over the weekend and went with WG DGPS v3.0 over Klasse AIO. This was actually my first time ever using the Deep Gloss Paint Sealant. I`m really impressed with it. Very easy to apply and remove and on initial impression very slick. However I ran out of time on the weekend and only had time to do one coat of the sealant.



I`d like to follow up in a couple/few weeks with a 2nd coat, but in the meantime will maintain the car with washes and maybe a mist of quickdetailer. I`m assuming I shouldn`t put any waxes on the car if I want to layer the WG, but does that include a spray wax like OCW? (My normal go-to between washes)



Some of the quick detailers I have on my shelf are:

FK 425

CG Synthetic Quick Detailer

CK Quickshine

Meg`s Final Detail and Final Inspection



Which of those would you recommend I stick to if I`m between layers on the Wolfgang?



Thanks.

[jmsc]

DGPS is a water-based polymer sealant.



My first choice has always been to stay within the family of products which you don`t list.



My next choice would be a neutral QD like FI #34.

[Inzane]

My first choice has always been to stay within the family of products which you don`t list.

Yeah the DGPS is the only Wolfgang product I currently have.

[Inzane]

I finally got around to applying the 2nd coat of DGPS 3.0 last night after a maintenance wash. After 3 weeks the one coat of wolfgang was still beading great and still had fantastic slickness. But I decided to do the 2nd coat anyway.



I noticed today looking at my car in the parking lot at work that the paint looks even better now than before. (Not sure if that`s my imagination or not).



My new question for you all is, any further benefit (in terms of looks) from adding a `nuba on top of the wolfgang? My 335i is Space Grey (think dark silver metallic), and the carnaubas on my shelf to choose from are:



Pastes:

Natty`s Original

Natty`s Red

P21S

Souveran

M16



Liquids:

M26

CMW



And of course, OCW. (Which I may end up using after the occasional future washes anyway, since it`s so darn easy).



OR, should I not even bother and just continue to enjoy the look and the slickness that I have already? :cool1:

[David Fermani]

Man, those are some old school choices right there (respectfully speaking). I would try a little test yourself and apply say 3 of them to 1/2 of the hood, roof and trunk and see how they perform compared to the bare DGPS side. Just a thought....

[Inzane]

Old school? lol. Old school doesn`t mean bad school.



I kind of hate waste, which goes a bit against the autopian instinct to keep on buying the latest greatest new products. However in the process our supplies accumulate if we`re buying new stuff faster than we can use up the old. I`ve got all these (still great, IMO) products on my shelf that I`d rather use then let go to waste.

[Accumulator]

Old school? lol. Old school doesn`t mean bad school.

Along those lines, while I *really* like M34 Final Inspection for certain things (keep gallons on hand), I wouldn`t use it for this application.



I`ve never used the CG`s stuff, but I`d go with either that, or the Qwikshine (or however their cutsey spelling goes ), or my fave FK425.



I sure wouldn`t top that sealant either :grinno: Topping sealants means you can`t add more later.

[Inzane]

Along those lines, while I *really* like M34 Final Inspection for certain things (keep gallons on hand), I wouldn`t use it for this application.

Wow, that is a strong like. So which applications do you mainly use it for (out of curiosity)?

or my fave FK425.

I actually did half the top (horizontal) surfaces of my car yesterday morning before work with FK425, in part to test the low dust claim. Unfortunately it started to rain at the end of the day before I left.

I sure wouldn`t top that sealant either :grinno: Topping sealants means you can`t add more later.

That`s kind of the direction I was leaning too.





PS - I`m really impressed with the Wolfgang DGPS so far and wishing I`d started using it much sooner.

[DM101]

I would use Chemical Guys V7 Optical Select High Gloss Spray Sealant Detailer. It is a must have for me!!

[CEE DOG]

Save yourself a lot of money on thise silly 20$ for 16 oz. detail sprays. Do yourself a favor and buy a bottle of Ultima Waterless Wash Plus Concentrate... 18$ makes 5 1/2 gallons of a QD equal or superior to all others. You read that right... 5 1/2 gallons. I tested it vs Fk 425, opti clean, DG detail spray, and DP and none of them surpassed it. It beat all of them at something and most at everything.

[Inzane]

Save yourself a lot of money on thise silly 20$ for 16 oz. detail sprays. Do yourself a favor and buy a bottle of Ultima Waterless Wash Plus Concentrate... 18$ makes 5 1/2 gallons of a QD equal or superior to all others. You read that right... 5 1/2 gallons. I tested it vs Fk 425, opti clean, DG detail spray, and DP and none of them surpassed it. It beat all of them at something and most at everything.

Thanks for the suggestion.



BTW, how is that product as a no rinse bucket wash? (ie. how does it compare to ONR or QEW?)

[Accumulator]

Wow, that is a strong like. So which applications do you mainly use [M34 Final Inspection] for (out of curiosity)?

I use it to help lube/buffer things when I`m buffing off M105/etc. residue. No, it`s not a substitute for IPA/PrepWash/etc. but it does help me get the nondiminishing abrasives off with less micromarring.



And I use it for very gentle cleaning of fragile surfaces (both auto detailing and around the house for things like fragile antiques).

[Inzane]

Rather than start a new thread, I thought I`d just continue to add to this. Just to refresh on the background, a few weeks ago I did a detail on my 335i with x1 KAIO + x2 DGPS 3.0. In the time since, the car has been washed a couple times and I`ve played with various QDs but generally kept the car clean and looking great!



Last night I found a bird bomb on my trunk lid. Roughly round, no bigger than a dime in size. I`m not sure exactly how long it was there. It could`ve only been a couple hours (wife had the car out yesterday evening for a couple hours on errands), or could`ve been up to a couple days (my car sat outside saturday and sunday night while I was detailing the wife`s car over the weekend). Or it might`ve been there since earlier monday while I was at work. Anyway I grabbed some UWW+ and an MF and had to take a few passes to get it all off. (What are these birds eating?!) And I was horrified to find... etching! :shocked There`s barely anything remaining based on feel", but with the right angle I can defintely SEE something still there which I`m assuming is etching. I tried a few different QDs, including PB`s S&W and the before-mentioned UWW+ and a few different MFs... nothing touched it. Futher mucker!!



I`ve noticed people comment on Zaino not protecting against birdbombs. Do all sealants, or at least Wolfgang, have this issue as well?



I`d hope not to have to totally redo the trunk lid, but would Klasse AIO worked by hand on that small area be enough to remove it? Will I need to break out the clay again followed by a polish? Obviously after whatever I do I`ll throw another layer of DGPS on the entire trunk lid. But then it begs the question of whether I should revisit whether to top the Wolfgang with a `nauba in case there`s a good chance I could get etching again with future birdbombs (if WG doesn`t "protect" enough).



Thanks.

[Accumulator]

..I`ve noticed people comment on Zaino not protecting against birdbombs. Do all sealants, or at least Wolfgang, have this issue as well?

I have no etching problems when I use FK1000P (a "paste sealant" IMO) or (heavily layered) KSG. With those I don`t even bother cleaning most bird bombs off between (infrequent) washes.

I`d hope not to have to totally redo the trunk lid, but would Klasse AIO worked by hand on that small area be enough to remove it? Will I need to break out the clay again followed by a polish?

I doubt the KAIO will fully resolve the problem, especially if the clear is actually etched in the sense of some of it having been eaten away. To level the paint will require abrasion.



And note that any residual acids from the bird bomb might need to be neutralized via a decontamination or else they just might keep eating away at the clear. (Note all those "might" qualifiers....you just never know)

[Kotsios]

Why do you think its water based, I think there are solvents in DGPS.