Harbor Freight 6" DA

**Shane.belzers** · 02-21-2013, 06:22 PM

Anyone? Can`t figure out how to get that far...

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**pwaug** · 02-21-2013, 08:51 PM

Originally Posted by Shane.belzers

Anyone? Can`t figure out how to get that far...

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Shane--did you read the original post by Charles? I seem to remember him explaining exactly the steps.

**C. Charles Hahn** · 02-21-2013, 09:54 PM

Originally Posted by pwaug

Shane--did you read the original post by Charles? I seem to remember him explaining exactly the steps.

Correct; back on page 4-5 on this thread are the diagram and the information on how to remove the spindle assembly/etc. -- seems that some are able to spin the bearing assembly free as a unit. Basically:

1) Remove counterweight

2) Remove head cover

3) Insert tool to stop the gear assembly from rotating

4) Spin the bearing assembly off

5) Remove shroud

6) Pull screws holding the gear case together

Then grease and re-assemble in reverse order.

**Ron Ketcham** · 02-21-2013, 10:19 PM

I debated taking mine apart and checking it.

Then, wait a minute, why go through all that. I did measurement check of the temp of the gear housing before turning it on, run it 10 minutes with a load on it, and measure the temp of the housing. If it didn`t go up by more than 20 degrees, it had enough grease in it.

Mine works fine, without having to take it apart.

I assume, that as with anything that is man made, there may have been a very few units that got to HF with insufficent grease.

**Shane.belzers** · 02-22-2013, 12:17 AM

Ya after looking at the diagram more i came to the conclusion that the main spindle had to brr held in place then the piece spun off to remove the shroud ..

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**Knob Creek** · 02-25-2013, 06:18 PM

Hello, novice new guy here.

I have three daily drivers that have neglected paint that I`d like to try and revive.

2000 pickup Pewter metallic

96 sedan Red

06 compact suv Green

All vehicles kept outside under partial tree covering, pickup has never been polished/wax, sedan maybe once in its life, 06 a couple of times maybe.

I have the HF 6" DA and am trying to figure out what backing plate, pads, and compounds to order for this application. I`m a bit overwhelmed at this point quite frankly.

I wonder if I should order a kit like this from autogeek which comes with pads, compounds, instructions and videos etc. Except that I read on this thread that one pad will not do an entire vehicle, so maybe I should order the products separately?

Optimum Detailing Kit:This kit contains the optimum products for swirl removal & paint protection!

Also, I have a bit of arthritis in my hands and I use vibration gloves when using a grinder or other similar type of tool and this seems to work ok. However, if I understand the process correctly the surface contaminants (and there are more than a few on these vehicles) need to be removed using a clay bar? I`m a bit concerned how my hands are going to hold up to pushing a clay bar over all three of these vehicles. Is it possible to use an aggressive pad/compound and the machine to remove said surface contaminants?

Thanks

**BigAl3** · 02-26-2013, 04:30 AM

Originally Posted by Knob Creek

Hello, novice new guy here.

I have three daily drivers that have neglected paint that I`d like to try and revive.

2000 pickup Pewter metallic

96 sedan Red

06 compact suv Green

All vehicles kept outside under partial tree covering, pickup has never been polished/wax, sedan maybe once in its life, 06 a couple of times maybe.

I have the HF 6" DA and am trying to figure out what backing plate, pads, and compounds to order for this application. I`m a bit overwhelmed at this point quite frankly.

I wonder if I should order a kit like this from autogeek which comes with pads, compounds, instructions and videos etc. Except that I read on this thread that one pad will not do an entire vehicle, so maybe I should order the products separately?

Optimum Detailing Kit:This kit contains the optimum products for swirl removal & paint protection!

Also, I have a bit of arthritis in my hands and I use vibration gloves when using a grinder or other similar type of tool and this seems to work ok. However, if I understand the process correctly the surface contaminants (and there are more than a few on these vehicles) need to be removed using a clay bar? I`m a bit concerned how my hands are going to hold up to pushing a clay bar over all three of these vehicles. Is it possible to use an aggressive pad/compound and the machine to remove said surface contaminants?

Thanks

check out our forum sponsors websites and i`m sure they will be more than happy to help and hook you up (they both have a large variety of products to choose from). they are just an e-mail or phone call away with any question you may have...

:up

phil at detailersdomain.com ( www.detailersdomain.com ) & corey at carpro-us.com (CarPro USA )

**Envious Eric** · 03-04-2013, 01:29 AM

soooo....GG6 is more powerful than this, correct? I dont need another pcxp, I have 6 dead ones in my garage.

worth it to get? for everyday use...for full corrections. the PCXP is not nearly strong enough or fast enough for me to go full corrections with, hence why I got the GG. the GG is better than the G110v2 from what I hear, so if Joe is putting it between the pcxp and the 110v2, I am having a hard time seeing the point....

**BigAl3** · 03-04-2013, 01:46 AM

Originally Posted by toyotaguy

soooo....GG6 is more powerful than this, correct? I dont need another pcxp, I have 6 dead ones in my garage.

worth it to get? for everyday use...for full corrections. the PCXP is not nearly strong enough or fast enough for me to go full corrections with, hence why I got the GG. the GG is better than the G110v2 from what I hear, so if Joe is putting it between the pcxp and the 110v2, I am having a hard time seeing the point....

eric, if i were you i would just stick with the GG6. it`s not as powerful, but it would be a nice back-up expecially considering the cost...

**Envious Eric** · 03-04-2013, 01:49 AM

thanks for saving me money!

Thats what I thought!

tried out the 15rupes as well...the GG gets more cut, so im perplexed as to why everyone is raving about them...heard there is a learning curve, but it feels like same speed/cutting ability as the PC, not even the PCXP. might have it up for sale soon

**LeMarque** · 03-14-2013, 05:25 PM

It`s on sale again for 49.99

**RobD** · 03-15-2013, 02:28 PM

A little off topic, but a question...I have an older PC (non XP) and was wondering if newer DA`s like the GG6 and G110 (the most current versions) are smoother running at high speeds?

I like my PC (I only use it on my cars), but it does vibrate my hands a good bit. More power and cut would be great, but I`m most interested in a smoother, more enjoyable-to-use machine. If so, I would likely use it more often. TIA

**pwaug** · 03-15-2013, 02:31 PM

Rob--I have a GG6 which I run with 5.5" pads--it does vibrate, but doesn`t seem to bother me after a full day of polishing. If you want something that everyone says is a pleasure to use look at the Rupes--especially the 5" model.

**RobD** · 03-15-2013, 02:41 PM

Originally Posted by pwaug

Rob--I have a GG6 which I run with 5.5" pads--it does vibrate, but doesn`t seem to bother me after a full day of polishing. If you want something that everyone says is a pleasure to use look at the Rupes--especially the 5" model.

Thanks. Both the Rupes and Flex are sweet machines, but I don`t want to spend that kind of money because I`m not a professional detailer. I like buying high quality stuff when I can, but I just don`t use the buffer enough to warrant a $350 machine.

**baseball07** · 03-27-2013, 01:40 PM

So the general consensus is that the HF foam pads do not quite fit the 6" backing plate that comes with the machine. So how would the pads fit on to a 5" backing plate? At $4 a pop I would like to find a way to use them.