Iron X, safe for all surfaces?

[imported_RedlineIRL]

A few months back I bought some Iron X spray on, not the gel. Now that the weather is turning nice, I want to use it soon. I figured this stuff should be a good solution for me since I have noticed a lot of rail dust that has accumulated on the rear of the car, and there`s not way I can get it all off without creating a ton of marring.



Is there any kind of finishes or items to avoid contact with Iron X? Like I said, I will only use it on the rear of the car, and the only other things back there are the chrome lettering on the trunk lid, vinyl striping, and chome exhaust tips. Any help is appreciated

[Ron Ketcham]

Personally, I wouldn`t use it on anything, it`s just a strong, un-approved by any vehicle manufacturer, mixture of oxalic acid and some sulfuric.

Go back through posts on this site, and see how it has "permanently" discolored some paint on vehicles.

Grumpy

[imported_RedlineIRL]

I saw a thread where one person had trouble with it on a white vehicle, but the affected area was not on the OEM finish.



http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...white-car.html



I haven`t really heard much negatives on it, most people have seems to really like it. Unless things have changed recently and people have discovered discoloration. If that`s the case I won`t use it.



I didn`t think that Iron X was supposed to be as agressive as the typical acid decontamination kits. I have some rail dust that seems to be getting below the surface, do you think that the acids in it could petetrate these areas and damage it? I don`t think a clay bar will really work the best, but Iron X seemed to be the best option since it is supposed to dissolve these particles

[Ron Ketcham]

Do a search here.

The product is nothing new, just new marketing approach, same stuff has been around for decades under different names.

Not one "vehicle manufacturer in the USA" has issued any approvals for this type of product. (some dealerships employee`s may try to say different, so ask them for a written document from the vehicle manufacturer to back up their claim)

That should say something regarding it`s potential to damage a factory clearcoat system.

If all that good, those manufacturers would have jumped on it for warranty repairs.

Grumpy

[rdorman]

Timely thread as I was going to order this stuff today! If not Iron X, then what?

[togwt]

Avoid using on uncoated Chrome or Aluminium, Do not use on chrome surfaces that are compromised (pitted, flaking or curbed), Mask plasticised chrome trim before spraying



Chemical formulation is a neautrelized acid, there are stronger paint surface cleaner out there, plus its not available in large quantities (gals) would therefore not a viable product for volume work

[Accumulator]

I just use AutoInt/ValuGard`s "B" for this, agitating if necessary with their Bug Pad (thanks Ron...it *is* OK but I still wouldn`t use it on some paints :grinno: ) or with clay (yeah, the acid eats up the clay pretty fast).



If you`re convinced that "B" isn`t potent enough, try the equivalent product from FinishKare, just don`t let it dwell *too* long (follow the instructions).



I have the IronX gel soap, and it didn`t impress me when used on (already very nice) wheels.



And while I`m not really paranoid about this stuff (auto paint is tough IMO), I`d be pretty careful about what acids I soak my car with

[usdm]

Ive tried ironx on some lower panels and bumpers. Cant say that I ever found discoloration on those areas, but then again, im mindful of not using on areas where bodywork or repainting was done. The main thing for me was the amount of product needed for it to be effective in maximum removal of metal deposits versus the price. Even with purchase of a clay bar (and/ or some bug pads), the Valugard, or Finish Kare systems are still more cost effective solutions than getting a gallon of ironx.

[imported_RedlineIRL]

I searched on here, and only saw one thread where things went wrong with Iron X on a white vehicle. Other than that, I haven`t found anything else



So what makes Iron X different from the other decontamination systems such as ValuGard Step II, other than some auto matufacturer use of ValuGard? A stronger acid? I know that Iron X is fairly new, so its probably not known if there are any affects on the finish in the long term. Since the ValuGard is deemd for OEM use, is it safe to say that this stuff will not do any harm to the finish or degrade it? Does it operate in the same affect as Iron X, where it will bleed out the bonded iron particles?



I know that the decontamination stuff can be kind of risky anyways, but what is the best option for totally dissolving already attached rail dust then?

[gmblack3]

I used iron X on a 2010 BMW M3 that is the clients track toy. My process was:



Foam, wash and rinse.

Iron X on areas behind wheels (side) and rear of car. Let dwell.

Foam again and wash with mitt.

Rinse and clay.



There was not much at all to clay off of the paint.

[SpoiledMan]

I`ve used the soap, gel and spray with no issues. They need to be rinsed away thoroughly. I prefer to wash after use. There is very little to remove with clay after using IronX.

[Deep Gloss Auto Salon]

I`ve used the soap, gel and spray with no issues. They need to be rinsed away thoroughly. I prefer to wash after use. There is very little to remove with clay after using IronX.

Nice to see you here Chris!





Jason

[SpoiledMan]

My brain was turning to Jello over there!

[Accumulator]

SpoiledMan- Hey, good to see you posting!



SpoiledMan & gmblack3- Do you IronX users ever follow it with a somewhat alkaline (e.g., an APC) step? Whenever I use something acidic (esp. wheel cleaners) I not only rinse, but also do a quickie "neutralization step" with something slightly to the base end of the ph range.

... Since the ValuGard is deemd for OEM use, is it safe to say that this stuff will not do any harm to the finish or degrade it?



I know that the decontamination stuff can be kind of risky anyways, but what is the best option for totally dissolving already attached rail dust then?

AFAIK, there`s virtually zero risk with the ValuGard decontamination system; that`s perhaps its main selling point and the reason why OEM OK it (it`s "bubba proof", and consider some of they guys working on new cars at dealerships!).



In fact, one of the reasons guys like Ron Ketcham are a bit leery of the FinishKare version is that it`s *not* idiot proof.

[tssdetailing]

For whatever it`s worth, the product smells FOUL! VERY FOUL! so becareful where you store it, mobile guys-if it spills, you will be sorry!