To Opticoat or Not?

**Dan** · 08-24-2011, 03:19 PM

A friend gave me his syringe of Opticoat. I love the promise, but the more I think of it, the less sure it offers any protection advantages over sacrificial products. :think: The biggest thing that worries me is Opticoat doesn`t claim to offer UVA/UVB protection. What am I getting for my time/money? Is it 2-4 more microns of paint?

The only thing that seems to be factual is that it releases dirt better that no LSP. My paint is already hard, so that`s not advantage. Waterspots and bird droppings, my two worst enemies are still an issue.

**RaskyR1** · 08-24-2011, 03:34 PM

Originally Posted by yakky

A friend gave me his syringe of Opticoat. I love the promise, but the more I think of it, the less sure it offers any protection advantages over sacrificial products. :think: The biggest thing that worries me is Opticoat doesn`t claim to offer UVA/UVB protection. What am I getting for my time/money? Is it 2-4 more microns of paint?

The only thing that seems to be factual is that it releases dirt better that no LSP. My paint is already hard, so that`s not advantage. Waterspots and bird droppings, my two worst enemies are still an issue.

From Dr. G...

Opti-Coat is a one component moisture cure clear coat much like a one-component moisture cure isocyanates paint. Once it is applied, just like other clear coats, there is no need to add boosters or other maintenance products to replenish it. The only way Opti-Coat is removed is by polishing, wet sanding, or use of paint removers. IPA, Prep-Sol, Detergents, degreasers, or other chemical cleaners will not affect Opti-Coat. Since there are many types of clear coats, I will base my comparison on urethanes since they are widely used in the automotive industry.

Opti-Coat vs. Urethane clears

Much better scratch and Mar resistance

Much better release properties (readily sheds dirt and oil)

Much better UV resistance (no yellowing over time)

Much better gloss retention

Does not oxidize (will continue to bead water and release dirt for years).

By adding Opti-Coat over the existing clear coat, the clear coat will be fully protected from all these elements. One other factor to consider is that every time clear coat is polished, some paint is removed. Most car manufacturers suggest that removing 0.2 mils or more of clear coat will lead to paint failure. Opti-Coat will replenish the clearcoat and prevents this from ever happening. This alone will make adding Opti-Coat after any polishing or compounding a safe and cost effective approach.

**wascallyrabbit** · 08-24-2011, 07:48 PM

i always thought it had uv protection.

**imported_DetailDan** · 08-24-2011, 08:10 PM

Do you find yourself polishing often to remove waterspot and or bird dropping etching? If so, then opti- coat may not be the product for you. But you can still apply it to other areas such as wheels, headlights/ taillights, etc.

**Thomas Dekany** · 08-24-2011, 08:14 PM

YES!!!! to opti coat or any of the other coatings vs other lsps. I had C quarts on the hood and as soon as you rinse the panel off you see the difference.

**Bill D** · 08-24-2011, 08:17 PM

I will consider it for applications like those areas such as the grille and emblems--seems like no matter what sealant I may apply to them,they are still prone to oxidation and greening in the corners.

**Dan** · 08-24-2011, 08:48 PM

I guess my issue is I haven`t been convinced it offers the best protection out there. The last pic David F posted, the passenger side looks better to me.

**mikenap** · 08-24-2011, 09:01 PM

Originally Posted by D&D Auto Detail

Do you find yourself polishing often to remove waterspot and or bird dropping etching? If so, then opti- coat may not be the product for you. But you can still apply it to other areas such as wheels, headlights/ taillights, etc.

Exactly! Although I may eventually OC the daily driver, currently I only have it on my wheels and windows. If nothing else, it is the perfect wheel LSP since I haven`t found anything sticks to it. Tar specks and brake dust come off with ONR and a MF. If you have a car that throws a lot of brake dust (Yakky, you KNOW your Audis fit this category!) the stuff is a lifesaver.

**David Fermani** · 08-24-2011, 09:17 PM

If you want looks, OC isn`t going to give it to you. Just like adding multiple coats of CC. Therefore, there is no appearance difference from the driver`s side to the passenger side on my car. If I told someone with a trained eye to tell me which side looks better there`s no way you could make an educated assessment which side was treated. Now throw some water on the car and it`s very obvious.

If you`re someone that likes to periodically wax/seal your car, then OC isn`t for you either. Unlike clearcoat, OC will reject anything you apply over it. It might look different for a short period of time, but it will take a nose dive shortly.

If you`re someone who hungers for protection from a true sacrifical barrier, then it gets no better. You will be hard pressed to kill this stuff. I`ve been trying trust me. I think it`s a must have for wheels and glass. Unlike wheel waxes and sealants short lived lifespan, OC makes a huge difference in this department. It really makes cleaning difficult to clean wheels a breeze. It also makes a big difference with bugs too. I can visually see the difference on the bumper/hood where the lovebugs left etching on the bare side, but not on the OC`d side. That, to me is huge. Also, applying OC to the windshield will drastically reduce the need for wiper useage, therefore eliminating the potential for wiper marring.

**Bill D** · 08-24-2011, 09:29 PM

OC sounds like a replacement for Aquapel---one less specialized product to buy.

**Dan** · 08-24-2011, 09:39 PM

Originally Posted by David Fermani

Therefore, there is no appearance difference from the driver`s side to the passenger side on my car. If I told someone with a trained eye to tell me which side looks better there`s no way you could make an educated assessment which side was treated. Now throw some water on the car and it`s very obvious.

Is it me, or does the drivers side look more dull and water spotted?

**David Fermani** · 08-24-2011, 10:04 PM

Yes, very bad water spots going on there, but believe it or not, because of the color, it`s not super detectable in the sun light. It`s when you look at it under light at night that it`s really appearant. That`s the potential trade off when you try to create this condition by spraying city water on your car multiple times throughout the day in the boiling hot FL sun. Chaulk one up to to beading on this one. This would most likely happen with any LSP, but in this case the coating is spotted, not the paint.

**Thomas Dekany** · 08-24-2011, 10:17 PM

DAVID, is the untreated side also water spotted?

Originally Posted by David Fermani

Yes, very bad water spots going on there, but believe it or not, because of the color, it`s not super detectable in the sun light. It`s when you look at it under light at night that it`s really appearant. That`s the potential trade off when you try to create this condition by spraying city water on your car multiple times throughout the day in the boiling hot FL sun. Chaulk one up to to beading on this one. This would most likely happen with any LSP, but in this case the coating is spotted, not the paint.

**Bill D** · 08-24-2011, 10:22 PM

Tell me about the etching: I had to polish out a *black Ceramiclear* Benz that had it. At the time only a rotary would get results. The awful water can instantly create a paint nightmare. Seems like only a CRS or washing in the evening or in a garage can help avoid it.

**RaskyR1** · 08-24-2011, 11:04 PM

David have you tried any chemical spot removers on the spots yet? My can can nailed by a sprinkler and CG Water Spot Remover took them right off....I thought for sure it had etched into the coating!