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  1. #1

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    Hi folks



    Ok, the seats are from an 01 VW GTI. They are in what I think is good shape, but they feel dry to me. They were steam cleaned this past Feb. by a detailer I found on this site. I think they are starting to show wear / cracking (not splitting). I`ve never had leather seats before, but I would think they should feel more supple..



    So, my questions:



    (1) I know Leatherique is frequently recommended for pretty messed up leather. Are these seats at that point, or is there some other product that would be better / less expensive / more effective? Leather Masters?



    (2) I assume this is not `painted` leather, so there is no worry about any top coat coming off with a more intense treatment?



    thanks for your time. Pics attached / below.



    matt



    pics: the uploader for inline viewing is telling me the url is invalid (?), so sorry about the external links..



    photo-8 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!



    photo-7 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

  2. #2
    The Old Grey Whistle Test togwt's Avatar
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    Unless a Premium Leather option was purchased the type of leather upholstery used by 95% of OEM is a multi stratum covering over the leather hide; pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane. Simple cleaning and protection steps that will prolong the life of finished leather, urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation



    Identifying characteristics - this type of surface; it will also have an even shine.



    The water-drop absorbency test- water drops will ‘bead’ on the surface



    Absorbency rate -Low



    See - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ning-care.html
    What gets overlooked too often is that one must be a student before becoming a teacher.

  3. #3
    judyb's Avatar
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    Hello

    This is definitely a pigment coated (painted) leather with a clear coat finish. The Photos show what appears to be natural creasing in the leather rather than any sort of deterioration although this could only be verified with closer inspection with a microscope.



    The important thing here is to keep the leather clean particularly the creased areas as these are more prone to wear. Use a leather protector to help keep the leather clean and help with abrasion issues and then clean with a maintenance cleaner on a regular basis, a deep clean would be beneficial once or twice a year.



    The suppleness of the leather will depend on how much has been done to the leather before the top finishes have been added and will vary from leather to leather. Adding products to the surface may help short term but will not do anything for the leather itself. The best thing to do is use water based products which will keep the leather hydrated and as supple as it can be.



    Hope this helps

    Judyb

  4. #4

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    thanks for the replies. so, assuming it`s painted leather....just use 303 on it? Other recommended products?



    thanks again!



    matt

  5. #5

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    Z-10 Leather in a Bottle is a good product to use. Leaves a nice smell and finish.
    MDRX8

  6. #6
    The Old Grey Whistle Test togwt's Avatar
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    (a) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. Use aqueous (water- based) foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) especially on aniline or ventilated seats. Always apply product to an applicator not the finished leather surface. If you spray a cleaning product directly to the surface it will ‘spot / streak clean’ certain areas



    (b) Hydrated - use an aqueous (water- based) products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don`t use them. Clean surfaces with a damp towel.



    (c) Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish (Leather Masterâ„¢ - Protection Cream) as a sacrificial layer and makes dirt easier to clean off and an ultra violet protective product (303® Aerospace Protectant) will preserve the finish.



    Leather Masterâ„¢ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgardâ„¢ type product specifically formulated for lather) the polymers penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable and keeps the leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to finished leather and provides a protective barrier against every kind of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks.




    (d) Patina(softness) - used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre to ensure the finished leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather Masterâ„¢ Soft Touch (ex Soft Vital) and allow to dry for approx 20 minutes, finally using a clean dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen. This product is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to restore the softness to hard finished leather; place the car in a sunny location and roll down the windows. Allow the car to sit in the sun for one or two hours to warm the surfaces.



    The hides used for automobile upholstery are treated with fat liquor and then sealed at the tannery. The only `conditioning` required for finished leather upholstery is hydration; oil-based products cannot permeate the finish (urethane pigmentation or covering) that is used in 95% plus of modern automobiles, urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation.




    Always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself



    As the materials used are constantly changing we must maintain our knowledge base and utilize the correct products and application methodologies to keep up with emerging technologies. It is very important to be able to recognise the various finishes and materials used as they all require different methodologies and products for proper care and maintenance.

    What gets overlooked too often is that one must be a student before becoming a teacher.

  7. #7
    The Old Grey Whistle Test togwt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiva
    thanks for the replies. so, assuming it`s painted leather....just use 303 on it? Other recommended products?



    thanks again! matt


    If you own a convertible; 303® Aerospace Protectant will provide invaluable UV-B protection



    Modern cars are being designed with inherent protection features; oordinary car window glass filters out about 97% of the (UV- radiation, the cause of photosynthesis (fading) and approximately 37% of (UV-A) infra red (heat) radiation, modern clear coat paint also contains UV inhibitors.
    What gets overlooked too often is that one must be a student before becoming a teacher.

  8. #8
    judyb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TOGWT
    (a) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. Use aqueous (water- based) foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) especially on aniline or ventilated seats. Always apply product to an applicator not the finished leather surface. If you spray a cleaning product directly to the surface it will ‘spot / streak clean’ certain areas



    Whilst foam cleaning is the safest way to clean pigment coated leather including ventilated seats it is not the best method for Aniline style leather as all that will happen here is that the cleaner will soak into the leather and not do any actual cleaning - there are dedicated specifically formulated products for aniline leathers that will do a much better job.



    Whilst Aerospace 303 has invaluable UV protection in tests we have not found it to be a very good surface protector for leather. Dedicated leather protectors are much more effective and many contain UV inhibitors too.



    Hope this helps

    Judyb



    Hope

  9. #9
    The Old Grey Whistle Test togwt's Avatar
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    [Whilst foam cleaning is the safest way to clean pigment coated leather including ventilated seats it is not the best method for Aniline style leather as all that will happen here is that the cleaner will soak into the leather and not do any actual cleaning - there are dedicated specifically formulated products for aniline leathers that will do a much better job.]



    Can you tell us what other type of cleaner will not soak into the leather to clean it, as I thought the principle behind foam is that it doesn`t soak the leather hence itrecommended use for cleaning Alacantra and Microseude and Aniline dyed leather?




    [Whilst Aerospace 303 has invaluable UV protection in tests we have not found it to be a very good surface protector for leather. Dedicated leather protectors are much more effective and many contain UV inhibitors too.]



    Can you tell us what different UV stabilisers are used in leather protection products as opposed to those used by 303?
    What gets overlooked too often is that one must be a student before becoming a teacher.

  10. #10

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    what through responses and info. So, if I leave it up to my detailer to do annual steam cleaning (wise move?), what about using these products:



    LM Strong Leather cleaner



    LM Protection cream



    LM Leather Vital



    I can`t seem to find z-10 at autogeek....



    in the long post above, there is no product mentioned in the "hyrdation` section. Is there a reason for this? Is it just that it needs to be wiped with a damp cloth? that would seem to not keep it hydrated really well..would just evaporate..



    again, thanks...

  11. #11
    The Old Grey Whistle Test togwt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiva
    what through responses and info. So, if I leave it up to my detailer to do annual steam cleaning (wise move?), what about using these products:



    LM Strong Leather cleaner



    LM Protection cream



    LM Leather Vital



    I can`t seem to find z-10 at autogeek....



    in the long post above, there is no product mentioned in the "hyrdation` section. Is there a reason for this? Is it just that it needs to be wiped with a damp cloth? that would seem to not keep it hydrated really well..would just evaporate..



    again, thanks...


    In the long post above, there is no product mentioned in the "hyrdation` section. Is there a reason for this? Is it just that it needs to be wiped with a damp cloth? that would seem to not keep it hydrated really well..would just evaporate.



    The Leather Master products are all water-based, water is all you need for conditioning / hydration. Water will of course evaporate, so a wipe down with a damp 100% cotton towel should be carried out on a regular basis
    What gets overlooked too often is that one must be a student before becoming a teacher.

  12. #12

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    ok, thanks. Much appreciated!

  13. #13

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    Leather Master`s Leather Vital is the best conditioner I`ve used.
    www.scottwax.com

    Certified Opti-Coat Pro/Pro 3 installer

  14. #14

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    I`m going to order up some of the LM Vital....waiting for a free shipping + 10% off deal at autogeek



    thanks, everybody...

  15. #15

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    You can always get 10% off by using the word AUTOPIA in the code section.
    MDRX8

 

 
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