Need HELP with weathered hard rubber trim around windows.... How do you clean them ?

[DM101]

Ok went to use some C4 on the trim of my windows of my Tahoe. The trim is weathered and the C4 did not want to play very good. Anything I can clean the trim with short of using Forever Black ????? The C4 did okay on the hard plastic sufaces. Need your help!!!!

[Accumulator]

My beater-Tahoe has trim that was baked in the desert for the first ten years of its life, much worse than the similar trim on my Yukon. I polished it back to life with Hi-Temp Heavy Cut, followed by ZAIO. I`ve had *VERY* good luck using abrasive polishes on GM SUV trim, from my beater-Blazer to the Yukon to the Tahoe it always worked well. Just don`t let the polish dry and I wouldn`t expect any problems.



I`d used 1Z Paint Polish on the Blazer and 1Z Metallic Polish on the Yukon, both topped with 845. When I switched the Yukon over to FK1000P (previously had Collinite on all of it) I used the Klasse twins on said trim and that worked well too.



On the *rubber* bits, I use KAIO. Some people then remove the KAIO with something and apply a rubber dressing, but I just top it with either KSG or 845 (or somesuch LSP) and I`ve never had it mess up the rubber (been doing this on the Jag for decades so I have a long-term perspective on it).

[DM101]

Other options ??? Help!!!

[togwt]

The surfaces can be cleaned using a damp micro fibre towel and Iz einszett `Plastik-Reiniger` Use Iz einszett Gummipflege to treat all seals and caskets.



Alternative products-

1. Swissvax Seal Feed-Gum Feed (contains glycerine) to treat all seals and caskets.

2. Gummipflege Stift - It applies directly from the bottle like a shoe polish; when it dries it creates a dark matte seal, durability measured in months it has a little sponge on top of the bottle so you always get the right amount of product on your weather-stripping or rubber seals. Once applied to rubber they will take on a dark but natural shine. Use bi-annually to provide UV protection to avoid rubber from hardening or freezing – Detailer’s Domain

3. Zymol Seal a natural plant anti-oxidizing agent, it will prolong the useful life of the seal by restoring the original moisture and resist tearing and sticking

4. Wurth Rubber Care Gel Stick- a silicone-free, biodegradable, and water repellent

[DM101]

Hey that `Plastik-Reiniger` looks like a good product to use.

[Accumulator]

Wurth Rubber Care is good too. If you get the aerosol version I`d spray it onto some kind of applicator to keep things tidy.



MDRX8- If you get that `Plastik-Reiniger` struff, post back about how it works for you.

[froboy272]

anyone try the Griots "Rubber Cleaner" which is supposed to be stronger than their "Rubber Prep". I feel like using APC followed by an IPA wipe would accomplish the same thing though...

[Bill D]

anyone try the Griots "Rubber Cleaner"

Yep, its my go-to for my Cadillac`s white wall tires. Makes them nice and bright and the tire in general is super clean. I don`t see how it couldn`t be used on trim. Might do a very good job.

[DM101]

Another good idea. But I`d probably go for the rubber prep. My trim has had the sun beat down on it and I did not use any protection. Also the rails of my Tahoe look bad too..... Thanks

[Accumulator]

anyone try the Griots "Rubber Cleaner" which is supposed to be stronger than their "Rubber Prep". I feel like using APC followed by an IPA wipe would accomplish the same thing though...

Pretty sure you have those two products mixed up:



-Rubber Cleaner (pn 11136/11137) is the regular-use, mild stuff

-Rubber Prep (pn 11071/11050) is the heavy-duty stuff



I use `em both. The Rubber Cleaner is awfully gentle, maybe too gentle for many people. The Rubber Prep is *VERY GOOD*, I simply love it and I use it for all sorts of jobs. Keep it off auto glass though, and I take that warning seriously; this might make for issues regarding rubber seals around windows.

[Ron Ketcham]

Try a really simple product and then judge for yourself.

Plain old IPA with a white towel. Don`t dilute, just put it on, nice and wet, let it dwell until it starts to dry, rewet and wipe off.

Look at the towel, it should be "black", that`s the oxidized rubber that`s come off.

Then put some protective product on, which will wash off.

Or, put on a coat of UV-Gard or two and forget about it for a couple of years.

Grumpy

[Accumulator]

Ron Ketcham- So if you keep redoing the IPA, at some point should you quit getting black transfer (i.e., when you get through all the oxidized rubber, down to the "still healthy" stuff)? What about the :nono about IPA drying out rubber (not that I give much more credence to that than I do about people scolding me for using waxes on it).

[Ron Ketcham]

You will know when it`s clean.

IPA will only be active as long as it`s wet, once it`s dry, do what ever you wish.

Sure, it will appear to "dry" out to the un-informed, as they may panic when they see the residue coming off.

It will remove some of the mold release agent used in production, it will remove most over the counter "protectants", etc.

Better to have a clean, almost virgin surface when applying any product.

Just think that you "are painting" and one would not apply a permenant coating like paint on a dirty, oxidized, contaminated sureface, now would they?

Grumpy

[Bill D]

Maybe I`ll touch up spots on the white walls of my tires, stuff like brake dust lines and dressing run off lines made from driving, with IPA in between full tire cleaning and redressing.

[Ron Ketcham]

Want to really help your car?

Wipe the rubber blade edge of your wipers with the IPA, watch the dead/oridized rubber come off that is created by high ozone and UV rays, especially in sunbelt or high density cities.

Lot of wiper blades are replaced when they don`t need anything more.

Not to say it is a "cure-all" just that an oxidized blade sure won`t wipe clean.

Grumpy