Need to choose a polish and sealant.

[DatacomGuy]

I need to pick out a polish and sealant.



For the polish, I`m looking at these. I like AIO`s, but curious about the following:

• Optimum Poli-Seal
  
• Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish (with Glaze fillers) (really like this one, but have read its best to use with another polish, before wax (as a sealant then?)
  
• Poorboy`s World Polish with Sealant
  
• Sonax Nano
  

I need a sealant also.. would any of these products take the place of the sealant? Or do I still need a good sealant on top of?



For the sealants, I was looking at:

• Meguiar`s Synthetic Sealant 2.0 M21
  
• Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (HGSG)
  
• Poorboy`s World EX-P Sealant
  
• Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger
  

I`m thinking of following up with Poorboy`s liquid natty blue.



These are for my own vehicles. One is a brand new car (3 weeks old) and the other is an 08 that I just picked up. It needs help, and has tons of defects. I know the process will be different for both of these vehicles.. I also will be working on my brothers car, that is a long-neglected 2007 that has hardly ever been cared for. Never been waxed, tons of tunnel washes, and 3 years of Ohio winters.



I thought I knew waxing and detailing, but had no idea once I joined here. My previous steps were Meguiar`s three step process. Cleaner/Polish/ Carnauba or NXT. I`m obviously missing some stuff here when I was going this route.



Please please please, any suggestions/changes/corrections, send my way.

[tom p.]

I`m an advocate for Klasse AIO as your base, followed by FK 1000p sealant.



I`ve used some of the products you mention - - I think you can get better longevity with my suggested products. Two coats of 1000p will last many folks 6 months (or better).



Welcome aboard, Datacom!

[DatacomGuy]

Thanks Tom! I`m definitely good with that.. Would you recommend a wax on top of that 1000P?



Will I get that deep, wet/glossy look with either of those? Going to go read more about them now. I planned on picking up KAIO anyway for other uses, so it only make sense. Anything to reduce the first invoice for material, the better.. LOL

[DatacomGuy]

As a side note, I`m thinking of following this step by step for my new car.



My New Car Prep Process: BMW 550 – Detailed Image



But I still need to find products recommended for the 07 and 08 that need to be severely cleaned up.

[Dan]

None of the mentioned AIO`s will do any real correction. You also didn`t mention clay or a machine.

[DatacomGuy]

Correction will definitely be important on the two used rides.



I have Meguiar`s clay which I love. Also, i`ve always done by hand, and will do these by hand since a PC isn`t in the budget just yet. Maybe next month, but I don`t want to delay any more time. Comes down to - Spend $150 in materials, or $130 on the PC.. but its one or the other.



Although, further reading and studying shows I might just need to wait for the PC to properly polish. I suppose a month or two delay won`t kill me.

[tom p.]

None of the mentioned AIO`s will do any real correction. You also didn`t mention clay or a machine.

Good points. I`m being assumptive and assumed finishes were like-new. However, OP may already have the basics covered on that stuff.

[tom p.]

Thanks Tom! I`m definitely good with that.. Would you recommend a wax on top of that 1000P?



Will I get that deep, wet/glossy look with either of those? Going to go read more about them now. I planned on picking up KAIO anyway for other uses, so it only make sense. Anything to reduce the first invoice for material, the better.. LOL

Yes, the 1000p leaves a bright, glossy finish. Forum brother Bence has appropriately described it as `adding another layer of clearcoat`.



Yakky is correct about the prep phases. This is the single most important stage and is a make or break step.



I don`t know what you currently own, but I`d put the PC (or equiv) way at the top of my list of near-term purchases. It will simplify your work and kick things up a notch or three in terms of a finished product.



I have a new tin of FK 1000p (15oz) if you want it for $19. I bought way too much of the stuff.

[Accumulator]

As a side note, I`m thinking of following this step by step for my new car.



My New Car Prep Process: BMW 550 – Detailed Image



But I still need to find products recommended for the 07 and 08 that need to be severely cleaned up.

Welcome to Autopia!



I read through that link and I`d sure want to do a lot better job on a new car, but hey..that`s just me.



What color is the new one? If it`s light (white, silver, etc.) you might oughta really do it right as ferrous contamination ("rail dust") can lead to awful rust-blooms as it oxidizes.



Other sorta random thoughts:



-Sorting out your wash routine so you don` mar (i.e., swirl up) the paint is very challenging

-You really oughta buy a polisher, money well-spent with all those vehicles to care for; I`d get the Griot`s Garage 6"

-AIOs are really just like high-tech cleaner waxes; for your situation (i.e., no polisher) I`d probably recommend Zaino AIO, though that Klasse AIO is just soooo useful that everybody oughta have it on the shelf IMO

-I`d sure take Tom P up on that FK1000P offer, and no, don`t apply wax over top of it unless for some reason you simply can`t stand the look (and note that it changes appearance a little bit over the curing period, which is about two days or so after you apply it)

-Make sure you have *GOOD* lighting under which to inspect your work

-The two used cars can be approached in a variety of ways, just how far do you want to go with them?

[TedFred]

Correction will definitely be important on the two used rides.



I have Meguiar`s clay which I love. Also, i`ve always done by hand, and will do these by hand since a PC isn`t in the budget just yet. Maybe next month, but I don`t want to delay any more time. Comes down to - Spend $150 in materials, or $130 on the PC.. but its one or the other.



Although, further reading and studying shows I might just need to wait for the PC to properly polish. I suppose a month or two delay won`t kill me.

You can getthe whole sheebang at amazon for $120. Clay, polish, wax and GG polisher including pads for $120.



Sorry no longer on sale. It goes on sale often at the $120 price

[Dan]

You can getthe whole sheebang at amazon for $120. Clay, polish, wax and GG polisher including pads for $120.



Sorry no longer on sale. It goes on sale often at the $120 price

Yep, that is an amazing deal though it seems to pop up quarterly. You are also going to need to invest in about $50 in pads. You can skimp on polishes and LSP`s by getting UC and SwirlX from WalleyWorld and then grab some DG105.

[DatacomGuy]

You can getthe whole sheebang at amazon for $120. Clay, polish, wax and GG polisher including pads for $120.



Sorry no longer on sale. It goes on sale often at the $120 price

I was going to say, I don`t see it Is that for the 6"? # 11605STDCRD



If so, I`ll keep an eye out.

[DatacomGuy]

Welcome to Autopia!



I read through that link and I`d sure want to do a lot better job on a new car, but hey..that`s just me.



What color is the new one? If it`s light (white, silver, etc.) you might oughta really do it right as ferrous contamination ("rail dust") can lead to awful rust-blooms as it oxidizes.



Other sorta random thoughts:



-Sorting out your wash routine so you don` mar (i.e., swirl up) the paint is very challenging

-You really oughta buy a polisher, money well-spent with all those vehicles to care for; I`d get the Griot`s Garage 6"

-AIOs are really just like high-tech cleaner waxes; for your situation (i.e., no polisher) I`d probably recommend Zaino AIO, though that Klasse AIO is just soooo useful that everybody oughta have it on the shelf IMO

-I`d sure take Tom P up on that FK1000P offer, and no, don`t apply wax over top of it unless for some reason you simply can`t stand the look (and note that it changes appearance a little bit over the curing period, which is about two days or so after you apply it)

-Make sure you have *GOOD* lighting under which to inspect your work

-The two used cars can be approached in a variety of ways, just how far do you want to go with them?

Thanks for the help!!



All three are dark. The new car is "dark slate" (2011 Altima). The wife`s SUV is midnight blue (08 Saturn Outlook), and my brother`s Accord (2007) is black.



I`ll be revising my car wash routine to use ONR, dual bucket, grid setup, with a Lake Country blue grout sponge.



Lighting will be T8 fluorescents, in the garage.



As far as the used cars, I want to get them to the best shape I physically can, on my own (versus hiring someone). Willing to invest in the materials and time, just need to find the right materials to invest in. I`ve read SO MANY articles and every article recommends something different in a slightly different order, so it gets ultra confusing.. I know that the car and the finish might require different materials to accomplish the task, which makes it even harder for the hobbyist to make the right decisions without burning too much money.

[Accumulator]

Thanks for the help!!



All three are dark. The new car is "dark slate" (2011 Altima). The wife`s SUV is midnight blue (08 Saturn Outlook), and my brother`s Accord (2007) is black...

Ah, OK, then I won`t urge you to overkill the decontamination; the clay oughta be fine.

I`ll be revising my car wash routine to use ONR, dual bucket, grid setup, with a Lake Country blue grout sponge.

See how that works for you. It`s not the right approach for *me* but others like it.

Lighting will be T8 fluorescents, in the garage.

I find fluorescents to be basically useless for swirl-spotting. OK for more serous defects and good for texture and gloss, but not right for most inspections. Heh heh, there`s a reason (beyond energy efficiency) why they use `em in showrooms; they hide swirls really well. Better think about halogens and/or incandescents and/or LED inspection lights. The idea is that you need "point-source" illumination for this particular task.

As far as the used cars, I want to get them to the best shape I physically can, on my own (versus hiring someone). Willing to invest in the materials and time, just need to find the right materials to invest in. I`ve read SO MANY articles and every article recommends something different in a slightly different order, so it gets ultra confusing.. I know that the car and the finish might require different materials to accomplish the task, which makes it even harder for the hobbyist to make the right decisions without burning too much money.

Roger that, it *can* be overwhelming and I don`t want to merely add to the confusion. Maybe the simplest thing would be for you to post what you`re proposing to do/use and let us critique it before you spend any $. There are a lot of good approaches that`ll all work fine, but there are some no-so-good ones as well that it`s best to avoid.

Is that for the 6"? # 11605STDCRD

Yeah, pretty sure that`s it. The STDCRD just means it doesn`t have the longer (and hence pricier) power cord.

[DatacomGuy]

See how that works for you. It`s not the right approach for *me* but others like it.

What is your recommendation for the actual wash?



Thanks for all your help. Keep it coming! I definitely will continue to read, and then i`ll repost my proposed list of items to purchase, and see if we can fine-tune. I`m actually preparing a spreadsheet too, to keep it organized (thats my OCD for you)