FK 1000P vs. Collinite 476S

[Bill D]

I`m getting back in the loop regarding LSPs and these two are new to me. I`ve seen them mentioned recently. They seem to be directly competing products in terms of claims of product durability.



Check out the product descriptions:



Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax, high melt polymer car wax, Finish care auto wax



and



Collinite Super DoubleCoat Auto Wax #476



I`d be looking for something great for my wheels, and maybe to help me survive the high summer heat months. Do you prefer one over the other and why?

[tom p.]

Bill, I`ve got both and use both. I have a preference towards the 1000p product. I think it has the edge in terms of durability, certainly in terms of gloss, assuming that`s what you`re after.



If you search, there`s loads of recent discussion on the 1000p product. It`s a winner!



BTW, great to see you back

[Scottwax]

I`ve got 476 but haven`t tried 1000P yet. I do like the warm, wet glow of 476 and the beading is outstanding. Not sure it is truly non-cleaning and layerable like they say on Autogeek though. It will remove tar splatters pretty easily. Maybe it cures hard enough that a second layer doesn`t remove the first layer completely. :nixweiss



However, one application should give you pretty good protection.

[Bill D]

Hey Tom! Great to see you too! Thanks for the word on the 1000P. I`d definitely like high gloss and I`ll do more research into it



Thank you too, Scott. The 476`s added benefit of tar removal sounds like a plus for sure!

[imported_Bence]

Good to see old members back again!

[David Fermani]

Good to see old members back again!

It sure is! They`re coming out of the wood work everywhere. It`s totally transforming the forum.

[Dan]

1000P or 845. I can`t say I have much love for 476.

[extrabolts]

I have and use both. I think its a toss up. For non-detailing people, I always recommend 845 or 476s and don`t mention FK1000P because of the trim-safeness and tight beading. Here`s how I`d break it down:



476s:

- tighter, better beading

- single coat gives some of the best protection out there, better than a single coat of FK1000P by multiple weeks (for me)

- trim safe. Intentionally apply it to your trim and sleep easy.



FK1000P:

- huge jar of it for about the same price as 476s

- high temp property is a plus for my black car in the sun

- doesn`t leave as much miscellaneous dirt on the surface after rain; seems to rinse cleaner naturally



I use FK1000p on my black car that sits outside in the south. However, I don`t like having to be careful when applying it for trim. And it actually seems to dust a little bit, builds up in the crevices, etc. Leaves a very nice glossly look to the paint - hard to describe but others have done it already. A freshly waxed FK1000P car looks great.



476s - well you get a lot less than FK1000P, but let`s be honest, a jar of it will last you many years doing your regular cars. I like that I can apply it to trim without worry. And I love the beading - it`s like the water is afraid of the paint. 476s goes on my wife`s daily driver, which is garage-kept. It lasts a loooong time - I have some on right now that I applied 11 weeks ago and it might as well have been 11 hours ago. As a plus, it seems to have some minor filling ability.



Overall I think I`d choose 476s between the two. But for $30, you could have both and probably 10+ years of wax supply for a couple of cars.



Unfortunately I didn`t throw FK1000P into my current 8-way wax test. However, I`m going to split a car in half this summer and do a FK1000P v. 476s challenge whenever my current coat of 845 + FK1000P wears off.

[imported_Picus]

IME, the beading of FK1000 (and the durability) go from "eh" to "whoa" after a second coat. One coat I would probably prefer 476s, but with two coats FK1000 wins, imo.

[porta]

I prefere 1000P - it´s look better and is easier to use as well.

[Bill D]

Thanks for all the feedback, guys!

However, I`m going to split a car in half this summer and do a FK1000P v. 476s challenge whenever my current coat of 845 + FK1000P wears off.

It`ll be really interesting to see the results!

[tom p.]

IME, the beading of FK1000 (and the durability) go from "eh" to "whoa" after a second coat.

Dead-on :xyxthumbs Highly accurate description! That 2nd coad is essential to get the full effect.

[Accumulator]

Yeah, what Picus said :xyxthumbs





Bill D- Everthing got covered pretty well while I was offline with a power outage.



Other than the issue of looks, use on extremely compromised paint, and situations where I can only apply one coat, FK1000P has completely replaced 476S for me, and you know what a fan of 476S I used to be.



Gotta be a little careful about layering FK1000P though, lest you get pseudo holograms from a solvent effect. Not as big an issue as with 476S though, not by a long shot.

[Bill D]

Accumulator- glad you`re back online. Yeah, I knew what a big 476 guy you were so hearing you switch to FK is noteworthy.



Maybe I can avoid any hologramming by waiting 24 hours + between the first and second layer?

[Accumulator]

Maybe I can avoid any hologramming by waiting 24 hours + between the first and second layer?

I`d read that FK recommended just a few hours and that others found that sufficient. So I waited 24 to be on the safe side. Did numerous coats on the Yukon XLD with a 24 to 48 hr intervals. Thought all was well. Let time pass....with the vehicle mothballed in the shop. Then one day I pulled it out to move things around and in *just* the right (sun)light I saw pseudo holograms. Yikes! Pulled it into the shop, washed it, and inspected with the SunGun, and, well...spent a long, long time buffing them away with lots of FK425 and my softest MFs.



Now I wait until at least the next regularly scheduled wash, which for me and be a while. I waited a month or so with the beater-Tahoe and it was perfectly OK in the meantime. While the second coat *is* amost mandatory for stellar results, it`s not like there`s some huge issue with only having one on there for a while.