GRAND FINALE -Optimum Opti-Coating - Durability Test Review!!!

**Accumulator** · 03-29-2011, 11:02 AM

Chris@Optimum- What are your thoughts regarding my proposed use of Opti-Coating on the painted under-vehicle areas? You know, the rough-textured, not cleared, "don`t have to be perfect" stuff that most people don`t even bother with. Doing those with conventional LSPs is a real PIA....

**imported_Bence** · 03-30-2011, 06:23 AM

Accumulator, I think I`d use a coating on the mentioned areas, but with HVLP application. It uses more material, but only the airborne particles can ensure proper coverage on those tricky textures.

That said, coatings have a certain "noblesse" factor, so relegating them to just the rough areas... well...

**Chris@Optimum** · 03-30-2011, 09:45 AM

Will it work, yes. My only concerns are amount of product and like Bence mentioned, the texture. I very much prefer black wells and would just add under coating to hide color or pain to freshen up those areas, but that`s just me.

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**Accumulator** · 03-30-2011, 09:57 AM

Originally Posted by Bence

Accumulator, I think I`d use a coating on the mentioned areas, but with HVLP application. It uses more material, but only the airborne particles can ensure proper coverage on those tricky textures...

I know *exactly* what you mean, but I`m not gonna be spraying it (if only because I don`t want to buy or borrow a HVLP gun). Keeping this stuff Accumulator-proof means no spraying of stuff in the shop, even with the LP system

I don`t even shoot my undercoatings indoors!

That said, coatings have a certain "noblesse" factor, so relegating them to just the rough areas... well...

Heh heh, that reminds me of how guys like Fermani and Theal tease me about using other high-end products on my undercarriages

I actually used Souveran on the underneath of my last `vette

Originally Posted by Chris@Optimun

Will it work, yes. My only concerns are amount of product and like Bence mentioned, the texture. I very much prefer black wells and would just add under coating to hide color or pain to freshen up those areas, but that`s just me

Thanks for the confirmation, this might be just the thing for what I`m after.

What would I need to watch out for on the textured surfaces? I`m not planning to use something like this on the really rough areas (see below, maybe that`ll explain), but on places where I`d otherwise use, say....Collinite 845 or somesuch.

I do spray undercoating (especially like Eastwood`s Black HD Anti-Rust) on many areas, especially those subject to wear. But I also appreciate how some painted areas (e.g., in wells, the floorpan) can polish up (factory finish there often lacks clear

) and I`m simply a sucker for polished/LSPed suspension bits

Heh heh, sold the Yukon DXL yesterday, and the guy thought I was joking about the undercarriage until he peeked under there and saw things really were like I said!

Just noticed you`re in middle TN...I have in-laws all over TN, my wife`s from Memphis.

**Accumulator** · 03-30-2011, 10:04 AM

Hey, another Q, maybe even more on-topic

How well does the Opti-Coating hold up to potent cleaners, like (diluted) APCs? Currently I have to choose between LSPing the out-of-sight bits and then using a strong shampoo mix (not to effective when things get really dirty) or leaving them bare and cleaning with APCs (which clean such areas much more effectively).

I`m hoping something like the coating would be a good bridge between the two extremes.

**Chris@Optimum** · 03-30-2011, 02:37 PM

What you would have to watch for with the application in textured areas is to apply it as evenly as possible. The coating cannot be layered, so you`d have to get it right the first time because these areas are almost impossible to polish and start over. The coating will probably eliminate the need for strong cleaners. It only requires a mild soap and a little agitation to get almost anything off of it. APCs and other chemicals except paint remover will not harm it or change its properties. My favorite thing to apply it to is wheels, I can clean my rims with ONR and a MF mitt only and they come out flawless with the coating. If you wanted to spray it on, all you need is a tiny airbrush like you paint models with.

I`m in Cookeville...about four hour east of Memphis. It`s almost half way between Nashville and Knoxville on I40.

**Striker** · 03-30-2011, 02:57 PM

How resistant to marring/swirling is this product, on a properly prepped vehicle?

**Greg Nichols** · 03-30-2011, 03:01 PM

Originally Posted by Accumulator

Hey, another Q, maybe even more on-topic

How well does the Opti-Coating hold up to potent cleaners, like (diluted) APCs? Currently I have to choose between LSPing the out-of-sight bits and then using a strong shampoo mix (not to effective when things get really dirty) or leaving them bare and cleaning with APCs (which clean such areas much more effectively).

I`m hoping something like the coating would be a good bridge between the two extremes.

I have tested that weekly for 5 months.......the local touchless car wash uses pretty strong cleaners. I use them in the winter after ski trips. The coating works outstanding!

I`ve tried spraying Optimum APC full strength on the coating let it two dwell for 2 min, no worries!

I`m thinking you need coat your entire topside and underside in this stuff Accumulator.....then you can just DI water rinse the cars you own........you will have so much free time.........you will have to find another hobby.

Cheers,

GREG

**Leadfootluke** · 03-30-2011, 03:56 PM

I am glad to hear strong cleaners are not compromising the coating. That means a lot in the effort to not induce marring by using touchless techniques. Now foaming with a cleaner that would normally strip the LSP can be used to clean the surface.

**cptzippy** · 03-31-2011, 08:11 AM

Along the lines of the APC question, what about tar removers? Just ordered some Dodo Juice Tarmalade is what makes me wonder. Do I just need to use it for the prep or can (will I need to) use it after application?

**Alexshimshimhae** · 03-31-2011, 10:05 AM

would it have enough to cover a hummer ? (i think h3)

**Accumulator** · 03-31-2011, 10:55 AM

Chris@Optimum- Thanks for the additional info. Hmmm....I *can* imagine airbrushing it (old Paasche user here) on the underneath :think: I sure do appreciate how that`d help with regard to a uniform application, let alone dealing with the tight spots. Gee, I might want to try this on the good cars too! LSPing the underneath of the S8 is a huge hassle and this might be just the ticket.

Greg Nichols- Glad to hear it holds up to potent cleaners so well!

For some reason I`m not ready to try it on the topside yet. I`m not 100% confident that it`d prove Accumulator-proof and anything less-than-perfect would really twist my tail.

I sure *WOULD* like to cut my time down (and I don`t enjoy detailing nearly enough to consider it a "hobby"!), but eh....I`m still on my FK1000P kick for the drivers, and that stuff also allows me to do the DI rinse, at least to some extent. When it comes to the good cars, I`m so persnickerty about which LSP turns my crank that I don`t want to change anything (stubborn fool that I can be

).

**Chris@Optimum** · 03-31-2011, 11:15 AM

Originally Posted by cptzippy

Along the lines of the APC question, what about tar removers? Just ordered some Dodo Juice Tarmalade is what makes me wonder. Do I just need to use it for the prep or can (will I need to) use it after application?

Paint thinner and mineral spirits doesn`t remove it. Paint remover will remove it.

Originally Posted by Alexshimshimhae

would it have enough to cover a hummer ? (i think h3)

I could get an H3 done with one tube, but if your worried just do the paint first and only do the wheels and trim if you have enough left.

Originally Posted by Accumulator

Chris@Optimum- Thanks for the additional info. Hmmm....I *can* imagine airbrushing it (old Paasche user here) on the underneath :think: I sure do appreciate how that`d help with regard to a uniform application, let alone dealing with the tight spots. Gee, I might want to try this on the good cars too! LSPing the underneath of the S8 is a huge hassle and this might be just

the ticket.

Greg Nichols- Glad to hear it holds up to potent cleaners so well!

For some reason I`m not ready to try it on the topside yet. I`m not 100% confident that it`d prove Accumulator-proof and anything less-than-perfect would really twist my tail.

I sure *WOULD* like to cut my time down (and I don`t enjoy detailing nearly enough to consider it a "hobby"!), but eh....I`m still on my FK1000P kick for the drivers, and that stuff also allows me to do the DI rinse, at least to some extent. When it comes to the good cars, I`m so persnickerty about which LSP turns my crank that I don`t want to change anything (stubborn fool that I can be

).

Put it on one wheel. That is all it will take to sell you on adding it topside.

Originally Posted by frito

I am thinking about going this route on my new GTI. It already has a few coats of my standards like optiseal and collinite.

How can I should I prep the car first? Is IPA strong enough to prep the surface or should I take additional steps before application?

Also, since this cannot be reapplied, what does one do when it starts to wear off after its very extended life? Do you follow up with traditional products? Remove and reapply? Polishing off of wheels might be more difficult etc...

Opti-Coat is based on a resin pre-polymer that we manufacture and once it is applied, it cross links and reacts with urethane and other clear coat paints to form a permanent film. Opti-Coat has better chemical resistance, scratch & mar resistance, and release properties than any automotive coating in use. Like a regular clear coat, Opti Coat lasts indefinitely unless it is removed by polishing, sanding, or paint removers.

DIRECTIONS

1. Remove defects to your satisfaction

2. Clean surface to remove all polishing oils, waxes, and silicone.

3. Prime the applicator by making an X across the pad. Only a few drops will be needed for each subsequent panel.

4. Wipe Opti-Coat on a single panel at a time in a thin layer using several directions for even coverage.

5. Inspect the panel with adequate lighting withing 5-10 minutes looking for any thick areas that have not flashed away to clear.

6. Use applicator or paint safe microfiber to even out (no pressure)any spots where you see streaks. This step is key, as any spots not leveled will have to be abrasively repaired is allowed to cure. Panels will feel a bit tacky and will be self -leveling during cure time, so avoid any unnecessary touching, wiping, or contact to produce the best results.

7. Repeat steps 1-6 for each panel where application is desired.

NOTE: Take care to get complete coverage in your initial application as Opti Coat CANNOT be layered.

It doesn`t "wear off", it`s a coating not a nano sealant. No need for topping with other products, they won`t stick to it anyway...anything you put on it will be gone in a couple of weeks. To remove you have to use a compound or aggressive polish and you have to remove in order to reapply.

**frito** · 04-04-2011, 11:39 AM

I am thinking about going this route on my new GTI. It already has a few coats of my standards like optiseal and collinite.

How can I should I prep the car first? Is IPA strong enough to prep the surface or should I take additional steps before application?

EDITED FOR REDUNDANT CONTENT.

**cptzippy** · 04-04-2011, 03:57 PM

Originally Posted by Chris@Optimum

It doesn`t "wear off", it`s a coating not a nano sealant. No need for topping with other products, they won`t stick to it anyway...anything you put on it will be gone in a couple of weeks. To remove you have to use a compound or aggressive polish and you have to remove in order to reapply.

That kinda makes me sad. I went ahead and ordered some but I`m not sure I`m ready to give up waxing, sealing, etc