Revisiting an old enemy: Meg`s #7

**Greg Nichols** · 04-19-2009, 08:58 PM

^^^

Akimel

I agree it was formulated during the days of SS paint? It was a bear to remove and I did not get all of it off, even with hard buffing by hand. I will not give up, but I don`t get many SS paints anymore, so using it again is limited.

The improvement is a bit better than say Red moose glaze, or DWG. I believe the benefits are that you can take a 95% correct paint and make it 99%.

Cheers,

GREG

**SuperBee364** · 04-20-2009, 09:17 AM

Originally Posted by zaxjax

Hey Supe! I used #7 on this one topped with Souveran! It was a pain at first but once I got used to it, no problem.

zaxjax, that car looks stunning. Fantastic job, man.

Originally Posted by spookertunes

OK, let me see if I got this.

Use #7, get incredibly glossy ( if only temporary ) look.

To better preserve that look, seal it with NXT 2.0.

Good so far ?

Is there any advantage to using #7 over the NXT from that point?

Will it add more gloss ? Take away the protection of the NXT ?

I would be concerned that the solvents/oils in #7 would degrade your LSP. It`s usually always best to put your glaze on first.

Originally Posted by akimel

That`s interesting, as #7 has been used with single-stage paint systems for decades. Many believe that they observe a notable improvement with SS paint, whereas they may only observe a subtle improvement (and perhaps even no improvement) with clear coat paint. I wonder why your experience was different. I am in no way challenging your experience, just registering my curiosity.

Back in the 80`s is when I tried #7 and failed miserably. These were all SS paints. Using #7 on B/C is easy. I agree that it`s strange for it to be hard to use on the type of paint it was originally designed for. IMO, if guys aren`t seeing any improvement on B/C paint, they aren`t rubbing down the #7 enough. In my limited experience with number 7, it takes a *lot* of post-application rubbing to really get it to look it`s best.

**Slik560** · 04-20-2009, 09:20 AM

The hard part for me is how the instructions say to not let the product dry before buffing it off. I have had excellent results on my SS white paint on the `87 Benz, but I have to work a small area at a time. I get paranoid about the stuff drying before I can get it off. The results are more than worth it, though. Until now I`ve been applying it by hand, but after this thread, I`ll be using an orbital and a black or red finishing pad.

**Accumulator** · 04-20-2009, 10:03 AM

#7 can really soak into porous single-stage, and not always evenly. Heh heh...the effect sorta makes its old name "Sealer and Reseal Glaze" sound appropriate IMO.

I used to use it on black ss lacquer in the `70s and yeah...when it bites you it can be a huge PIA. I sometimes did OK by applying my *wax* to the same panel I was #7ing...working one panel at a time, I`d let the #7 "skin" to where I was ready to start buffing it off. I`d buff it off and apply my wax. Let the wax dry (to "finger-swipe" dryness) and then buff off. The excess #7 seemed to come off with the wax. But no, it didn`t always work and sometimes I`d be left with a mess.

[Insert "why I pefer #5 even if it doesn`t look nearly as good" ramble here..]

As for seeing much benefit from it (or any other Meg`s Pure Polish, at least IME) on b/c, IMO it simply depends on the paint, and perhaps primarily on the paint`s condition (esp. micro fissures, porosity, and any other characteristics that let the product gain a toe-hold). While #3 wiped right off a basically-perfect-condition new Audi of mine with zero benefit, such products could easily add a lot of gloss to some other paint and you won`t know until you try. I see a *slight* improvement on the MPV when I use products like this on repainted areas (and adjacent oe-paint ones). Never really noticed that with the Audis even though they`re always reshot with S-H paint, which is what they used on the MPV the last time :think:

Originally Posted by karburn

Until now I`ve been applying it by hand, but after this thread, I`ll be using an orbital and a black or red finishing pad.

As you`ve been worried about it drying, I`d sure be careful applying it by machine. If you "overcook" it you`ll remember it clearly (for decades in my case

). The added oils/whatever in #3 might make it a better choice.

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

I would be concerned that the solvents/oils in #7 would degrade your LSP..

The folks at Meguiar`s claim you can do the top-with-#7 thing without compromising the existing LSP. No, I haven`t ever tried it

**Alfisti** · 04-20-2009, 05:07 PM

Originally Posted by Accumulator

...let the product gain a toe-hold...

I love that expression! :cooleek:

**Caprice270** · 07-31-2009, 12:17 AM

I agree with Accumulator, Megs pure polishes tend to wipe straight off new healthy paint. In contrast, on my 17 year old clearcoat white car, it digs in and looks superb.

**jDizzle** · 08-01-2009, 11:46 AM

pictures are worth a thousand words.. heres my tan 2003 civic (polished several months ago, finnished with 3m ultrafina. still swirl free accept for the top of the trunk, and the roof (was scared to get too agressive at the time) yesterday i decided to pus some #7 ontop of my surf city nano seal and glaze and top that with s100, the surf city doesnt bead like i would like it too. heres a picture, and i would consider this healthy paint, and #7 did make a noticable difference.

**SuperBee364** · 08-01-2009, 12:10 PM

Lookin` good, jDizzle

**jDizzle** · 08-01-2009, 12:50 PM

thanks superbee, thats nice to hear coming from a pro such as yourself ..my parents are having a picnic here today, ive already had 2 people ask me about it, ha.

**scary bill** · 08-02-2009, 12:35 AM

I have had good luck with #7 in the past. On my sonic blue lighting it makes the paint drip. I usually top with 26, I have also tried nxt. Both added little to the look, just a tad darker nxt as 26 added more of a glow. Topping 7 seems to help the look stay around until the next wash.

I apply with a pc/lc blue at speed 3 or slower. As Accumulator mentioned, you do not want to "cook" the oils in 7 off with heat or over working. I prime the pad with a few small dots, I add 3-4 pea-sized dots as needed. The residue will be thin and should wipe easily.

I use the Mike Phillips "skinning" method until the paint isn`t streaky.

Here is some eye candy with 7/26:

**Jason M** · 08-02-2009, 09:36 AM

For those having issues with #7 give DC#2 a try. It has a look that is very similar if not the same and is less finicky to work with. I rarely have #7 be a PITA but I do carry DC#2 for those occasions when it does. I apply the same as how I use #7 which can be found earlier in this thread.