Revisiting an old enemy: Meg`s #7

**jaymz** · 04-06-2009, 03:28 PM

I am (or was) a #7 fan, too. Unlike a lot of people (apparently) I find it very easy to use...the trick is to work it well and put it on thin, thin, thin.

Supposedly, it was developed for single-stage paint and is not for clear coat, but I think it adds wetness and depth to the color.

However, this spring I have begun using Megs #205 and Danase Wet Glaze. The #205 removes Swirls and polishes and the Wet Glaze is awesome, and so easy to work with. I top the #205 with the Danase and then cover with NXT 2.0 and Collinite 845 (heated in a microwave to approx 90-100F).

Jim

**akimel** · 04-06-2009, 04:41 PM

I have never tried applying #7 with machine, and I understand that some people have success with this method, but my impression from reading a lot of comments about #7 is that it is best applied by hand.

The key is not to allow it to dry. In his video, as well as his old Autopia article, Mike Phillips applies #7 to the entire car and then removes it; but on MOL he usually recommends that one apply and remove it one panel or section at a time.

Massage it into the paint surface and then immediately remove it with a clean microfiber towel. But you need not remove the layer of glaze all on the first try. #7 tends to "skin," like homemade pudding. You remove a layer of skin, thus exposing the pudding underneath, which will then begin to skin again. Move on to the next panel, returning to the previous panel sometime later. I usually return to the "previous" panel immediately following the "first" panel, but others come back to the previous panels after they have glazed the entire car. Does that make sense?

The important thing is not to let #7 dry and be prepared to go back over the polished panels for a second buffing.

**imported_Bence** · 04-06-2009, 05:48 PM

Last year I did a black CR-V and applied #7 with a MF applicator. I let it dry fully in the scorching sun to see how it will react. To my surprise, it came off extremely easy. (Otherwise I always remove it in 2-3 hits)

And its look is unbelievably rich. Lovely.

**SuperBee364** · 04-06-2009, 06:07 PM

Originally Posted by Bence

Last year I did a black CR-V and applied #7 with a MF applicator. I let it dry fully in the scorching sun to see how it will react. To my surprise, it came off extremely easy. (Otherwise I always remove it in 2-3 hits)

And its look is unbelievably rich. Lovely.

Darnit, Bence, you always seem to be able to find the words that I can`t. That`s *exactly* how I wanted to describe it but as usual, couldn`t find the words.

I didn`t apply it by PC today like I`d intended. I hand applied it just to see if yesterday`s results were a fluke. They weren`t. It looks beautiful.

#7 doesn`t have much in the way of concealing or filling abilities. But to be fair, Meg`s doesn`t say that it does. It`s marketed as a glossing agent, and at that it excels.

I put a nice big swath of holos on the roof of my car using one medium pressure pass of 105. I pulled it in the sun, looked at the holos, pulled it back in the garage and applied the 7. Those were some *glossy* looking holograms! If anything, it amplified them.

Another lesson learned today: Cold ONR solution makes a great carnauba spit-shining agent. I used it to spit shine the panel I did yesterday. It`s a great way to spit shine carnauba even if you`ve driven the car, and gotten some dirt/dust on it. Just mix up some ONR with refrigerated distilled water and do a regular ONR wash. If you`ve never tried spit-shining a carnauba, you`re really missing out on bringing your wax to it`s maximum glow. It seems like the best spit-shining results are obtained at right about 12 hours after application. If you don`t wait long enough, you can degrade and/or remove the wax. If you wait too long, the wax just doesn`t seem to take to the spit-shine as well.

This detailing stuff can be so rewarding and fun when things turn out well. :dance

**pingable** · 04-06-2009, 06:19 PM

SBEE -

If you are on a glaze kick, try the old skool Clear Kote products the next time you have a impulse.Hands down, RMG is my go to glaze in my stash....

**SuperBee364** · 04-06-2009, 06:27 PM

Originally Posted by chefwong

SBEE -

If you are on a glaze kick, try the old skool Clear Kote products the next time you have a impulse.Hands down, RMG is my go to glaze in my stash....

Oh yeah, I love RMG. It has a great combination of gloss and concealing. Not to mention that it`s so easy to use. How they get by the VOC laws is a mystery, though. Not that I`m complaining... it gives a very good, clean high... er.. i mean finish....

**Scottwax** · 04-06-2009, 07:20 PM

Originally Posted by Accumulator

SuperBee364- Glad the #7 worked out so well for you! Interesting how it boosted the looks so much (an improvement I did *not* experience last time I used Meg`s similar #3 on a well-prepped b/c metallic paint).

Gee, wonder if we`re gonna go full-circle here and end up raving about #7 topped with #16, something members of my family were doing ~50 years ago.

Interesting observation between #3 and #7. #3 is definitely easier to use but it isn`t as liquidy (is that even a word?) as #7 as you noted. Both give a very noticable improvement in depth, that`s for sure.

#81 seems to be a good compromise, at least in my experience. Nearly as easy to use as #3 and nearly as rich looking as #7.

**imported_broker99** · 04-06-2009, 07:42 PM

I did a `68 camaro a couple weeks ago. The car had a 15 yr old urethane paint job. I read a post to let the #7 to stay on the car overnight. I have to tell you the car came out great.

**Jason M** · 04-06-2009, 10:38 PM

I prefer #7 via the tan Meg`s pad on speed 3. Two to three pea sized drops to do a panel. I really like to work the product almost like I`m massaging it into the paint. Buff off is really easy this way. I work one panel at a time and then go over the entire car with a final wipe down once I`m done. I enjoy the look so much I almost always include it in my personal details. I have tried it with the new black pad but prefer the softness of the old tan pad for working with #7. Those wanting to get white to look wet should really give it a try. My garage queen is white and I rarely do anything to the paint that doesn`t end with #7 before LSP.

**DM101** · 04-07-2009, 06:09 AM

Yes the #7. Excellent after PO85RD. Then folowed by Fuzion or Vintage or your favorite wax. #81 is awesome also. I love it and RMG before your LSP. Thanks Superbee.

**SuperBee364** · 04-07-2009, 08:24 AM

Originally Posted by JohnZ3MC

Good writeup and you`ve inspired me to try it too.

I smiled at your shopping ethic, I`m very similar.

I went to the drug store yesterday, saw my old nemesis too. I bought a bottle of Buckley`s Cough Medicine ............ and I don`t even have a cold.

-John C.

Well, but you might be *catching* one, so it`s a good idea to have it on hand just in case...

**akimel** · 04-07-2009, 08:29 AM

Given that some are re-visiting Meguiar`s pure polishes, the rotary users among you might want to consider giving M03 Machine Glaze a try. Tim Lingor is particularly fond of the stuff. He believes that he can achieve a more liquid look with #3 and his rotary than he can with Megs` other pure polishes applied by hand or D/A. #3 is the one pure polish made by Meguiar`s that has been formulated for rotary application.

**SuperBee364** · 04-07-2009, 08:57 AM

Originally Posted by akimel

Given that some are re-visiting Meguiar`s pure polishes, the rotary users among you might want to consider giving M03 Machine Glaze a try. Tim Lingor is particularly fond of the stuff. He believes that he can achieve a more liquid look with #3 and his rotary than he can with Megs` other pure polishes applied by hand or D/A. #3 is the one pure polish made by Meguiar`s that has been formulated for rotary application.

Well, I`m off to Autozone...Just when I thought I had all my products purchased for the year.

**imported_Ivan Rajic** · 04-07-2009, 08:57 AM

Originally Posted by akimel

Given that some are re-visiting Meguiar`s pure polishes, the rotary users among you might want to consider giving M03 Machine Glaze a try. Tim Lingor is particularly fond of the stuff. He believes that he can achieve a more liquid look with #3 and his rotary than he can with Megs` other pure polishes applied by hand or D/A. #3 is the one pure polish made by Meguiar`s that has been formulated for rotary application.

I`m in complete agreement with Tim in this case.. I have used M03 many times as a final step with a 9006 or 8006 pad and it has never disappointed me

**zaxjax** · 04-08-2009, 06:55 AM

So after reading this thread, I headed out to the garage and found two bottles. Half a bottle of #7 and 3/4 of a bottle of #3. Can you guess what I`m doing this weekend?