What`s the difference in these two? (Meg`s #3 & #7)

[Bbasso]

Meguiars Mirror Glaze #7 Show Car Glaze

Meguiars Mirror Glaze #3 Pro Machine Glaze



Other then the obvious name difference, what is if there is any difference with these two?



Honestly I`m looking for something I can pick up local (not much time to order) that has some sort of fillers to clean up my 100,000 mile paint. But I`m looking to use wax then a sealant over everything... and probably end up putting another coat of wax



thanks.

[Setec Astronomy]

I think Accumulator is around this afternoon, so he will be able to give you a precise distinction between the two...but I can say that you`ll probably need to keep the (pure) sealant out of the equation which won`t really want to bond to the glaze or the wax, although I guess some people have successfully used the WOWA sealants over wax (I haven`t tried that).

[Accumulator]

Yeah...here I am. I was just about to sign off when I saw this.



Bbasso- The #7 and #3 are functionally similar, with the #3 being more user-friendly and the #7 being a little richer looking. Both work fine via PC/hand/etc. There`s a different degree of, uhm...oiliness to the #3 that makes it better suited to use by machine but *IMO* that really only mattered back in the days when people used it via rotary. I myself prefer #5, but #3/#7/#81 are all pretty much the same stuff. Even Deep Crystal Step #2 Polish is pretty similar



BUT- none of these are likely to fit the bill here. IME they don`t work well over unpolished paint. You really oughta use at least a paint cleaner first lest you be seriously disappointed, and if you`re gonna do that you might as well use something with a bit of cut to it.



The Pure Polish (i.e. #3/#5/#7/#81/DC#2) by itself will only do the most minimal, insignificant job of "cleaning up" (or otherwise improving) the paint when used by itself.



Using a Meg`s pure polish, by itself, on a 100K car just isn`t likely to turn out well.



After using such a product, I`d follow it with a Meguiar`s LSP, such as NXT. Other products might have issues bonding to the Pure Polish but Meg`s stuff is made to work OK on it.



Doing the sealant/wax combo thing is really pointless if you`re not gonna do the full correction-type detail. Any minor pluses from that sort of LSP combo would be utterly insignificant on uncorrected 100K paint.



I`d rethink this one and try a different approach; I`d do two steps: abrasive polish then LSP. Probably something like #80/M205 or something similar (there are many products that I`m not familiar with on the market these days) followed by NXT. Much better use of the time/effort/$ IMO.



Note that the local autobody/paint supply place oughta have a good selection of products.

[sixty7mustang22]

#3 is definitely easier to use.

[akimel]

Just last week a guy over at Detailing World as asking about applying #7 by rotary. I directed him to #3 instead. I understand that #7 can gum up the pad pretty quickly when applied by machine.



Tim Lingor, I know, is a great fan of applying #3 by rotary. He believes it gives a liquid look that cannot be achieved by hand application.

[DM101]

Does he apply it over his LSP ??? Since it is a "pure polish" it is not suppose to effect the LSP.

Just last week a guy over at Detailing World as asking about applying #7 by rotary. I directed him to #3 instead. I understand that #7 can gum up the pad pretty quickly when applied by machine.



Tim Lingor, I know, is a great fan of applying #3 by rotary. He believes it gives a liquid look that cannot be achieved by hand application.

[akimel]

Does he apply it over his LSP ??? Since it is a "pure polish" it is not suppose to effect the LSP.

No. As noted by Accumulator, one typically applies the pure polish over a surface that has been cleaned with a pre-wax paint cleaner and/or abrasively polished. The wax or sealant goes on top of the pure polish. So the process is: clean/polish - pure polish - LSP.

[Bbasso]

Sorry for not giving out enough info.

I did a lot of work on my car, SSR2.5, SSR1 then Klasse. I`d like to add a little more deepth and shine while hopefully filling some of those ever so slight marks with a glaze. Then when I`m ok with it, toss a coat of #26 on and the EX-P on top of it all.

Just was reading PB`s and saw "Natty’s Paste Wax" which ideally sounds like just what I want. But I don`t have the time to order.

So the #7 is at the local autozone... I guess I`ll give that a try.



thanks for all the help/advice.

[DM101]

#7 is called show car glaze. The way it got it`s name is just before a car show, you would apply a coat(s) of #7. I have called McGuiar`s and asked them before and they said it would not remove the LSP. So who knows?

[BigJimZ28]

#7 is called show car glaze. The way it got it`s name is just before a car show, you would apply a coat(s) of #7. I have called McGuiar`s and asked them before and they said it would not remove the LSP. So who knows?

in Meg`s speak pure polish is a just a glaze



yes it can be used over a LSP, the only problem is it will not last long

unless you "lock in in" with a LSP

[Jason M]

Give Meg`s Gold Class a try. It falls into it`s own little realm of being a polish/wax. Think of it like #7 and a wax combined....if that`s what you are after. If you do go the #7 route then make sure you use VERY little product and apply it like lotion to the paint. Work it in lightly until it`s thin enough it starts to go clear and remove the residue right away or it can be a bear to remove. Also, using two towels to remove it will help. Use one towel to basically break the *skin* that #7 leaves and the second towel to remove the rest. This works much better that just trying to buff off the residue in one step...did I mention to use VERY little product?

[Accumulator]

Bbasso- Ah, OK *now* I follow you! I dunno how well the #7 will work on top of Klasse, might just sit there and never really take a "set". Never tried it though so :nixweiss



Think I`d go with a "pure polish" that dries more completely, something like #5. Gee, I always seem to find some reason to plug that stuff but I really do like using it.

#7 is called show car glaze. The way it got it`s name..

Heh heh, and it used to be called "sealer and reseal glaze" I can imagine some cynical remarks I could make about how/why it got renamed...you know, effective marketing and all that



I know a scad of people who *do* put it on showcars for the quick, temporary boost in looks it can offer though. IMO they`d be better off doing a lot of other things instead



Oh, and if you apply a Meg`s pure polish *aggressively enough* it`ll do a surprising amount of cleaning. I used #7 as a non-abrasive paint cleaner way (and I mean *WAY*) back in the day. It wasn`t so much the #7 that did the cleaning, moreso the application method. Using it or #3 via rotary could easily compromise an existing LSP, it`d depend on how the work was done.

[Bbasso]

#7 on top of Klasse worked out very well today, I`m happy.

Applied with PC med-speed, finishing pad and yes it did have some cleaning power, but not too much Went on easy, wiped off fairly easy.

topped with #26 then finished with PB`s EX-P.

I might put another coat of something tomorrow... but not sure yet

thanks agaon for the advice.

[Accumulator]

Bbasso- Glad it worked out for you! Heh heh, just gotta ask: how did you notice it had some cleaning power? I`m guessing the pad ended up a little soiled by the end of the job.

[Setec Astronomy]

Went on easy, wiped off fairly easy.

topped with #26 then finished with PB`s EX-P.

Obviously, you can do whatever you want, but how did you decide to put a pure sealant on top of a fresh coat of wax? In the old days, the members would be howling at that.