Originally Posted by Jay J
Me knows that you don`t use a rotary for the KB method.
Originally Posted by Jay J
Me knows that you don`t use a rotary for the KB method.
Bryan Burnworth - Atlanta Car Detailing - Peachstate Detail LLC
Selected as one of the top nine detailers in the US by Autoweek
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^^^ Lol ^^^
Ridding the world of swirls, one car at a time!
Bryan (gmblack3a) just forwarded me this write up from Kevin. Bryan asked me to post it, as he`s about to start working on a car. It will probably take a couple of posts, so wait to respond on it until I have posted the wole thing.
**THIS IS KEVIN BROWN`S METHOD, not mine, and I am in no way trying to take any kind of credit, just forwarding the details on his method**
Part 1:
Kevin Brown’s method for applying Meguiar`s M105 Ultra Cut Compound or M86 So1o
Cut & Polish Cream with a random-orbital:
I`ve found that M105 Ultra Cut Compound and M86 So1o Cut & Polish Cream
deliver best results when used in a similar manner. Not surprising, given that both
liquids utilize non-diminishing abrasive technology. The directions below apply to both
liquids, but M105 is referred to in the directions.
†M86 is NOT recommended for use with a random-orbital.
†M105 original formula is NOT recommended for use with a random-orbital.
†M105 updated formula IS recommended for use with a random-orbital.
Results may vary, so it is best to practice this method on a test panel prior to using it on
a vehicle. All recommendations are in reference to applying these liquids via RANDOMORBITAL
machine. This method also works well with a forced-rotation/fixed-orbit
machine (such as the popular Flex 3401VRG).
A different method should be used if polishing paint with a rotary machine.
Generally:
†M105 outperforms M86 in terms of speed for removing defects.
†M105 is capable of leaving a near perfect finish, but not on all types of paint.
†Original formula M105 can be difficult to remove, especially on very dry paint (old,
heavily oxidized, or improperly mixed prior to spraying).
†M86 is bulletproof- it works well on virtually ANY type of paint.
†M86 can occasionally outperform M105 in terms of defect removal and final finish.
†M86 remains workable for a long period of time.
con`t....
Ridding the world of swirls, one car at a time!
great thread everyone. I was reading on this KB method last week. I found it a little funny with the whole prming the pad, spinning it in a MF etc...
However, now I find myself coming on car this weekend and the customer is ONLY interested in removing ALL swirls. No interior, no wheels JUST correction. Since my only machine is a PC, this request would normally make me a little nervous as this would be a challenge in the past.
I do have both M105 and M205 and this is what I am planning to use. PFW was going to be my pad choice but I also have 6-8 5.5" orange pads.
I suppose I need to study the KB method a little more.
KEEP IT COMING!!!! Hopefully we`ll see this write-up Keving is working.
Part 2:
M105 Ultra Cut Compound used with a RANDOM-ORBITAL for DEFECT removal:
PRIME:
First, prime the pad with an ample amount of M105. Rub it in aggressively (by hand) to
ensure complete pad coverage. If needed, continue to add more buffing liquid until it is
visually obvious that the pad face is consistently primed, and feels moist to the touch.
The goal is to fill the pores of the pad face with buffing liquid. Priming the pad in this
manner dramatically increases the surface area of buffing liquid that will be in contact
with the paint surface.
It is not necessary nor is it desirable to create an excess buildup of M105 on the pad.
Too much buildup above the surface of the pad can decrease overall performance.
AVOID priming the pad with a fine mist of water, Final Inspection, Last Touch, (or any
other similar product). Why?
While wetting the pad or surface increases wetness, it does not necessarily add lubricity.
In fact, if too much wetting agent is added, it can help to wash away (or displace) the
buffing liquid’s built-in lubricating ingredients.
Original formula M105 can get a bit dusty at times. This is both
unfortunate AND fortunate. While the dusting is bothersome, it helps to remove
the contamination-laden and moisture-deprived abrasive from a freshly polished surface.
Since M105`s abrasive is so fine, the addition of moisture AFTER it has been run through
its working cycle helps gather all the abrasive dust remnants. The micro-sized abrasive
particles remain very aggressive, and mechanically pack together. This grouping of
particle matter creates larger particles, uneven in size & shape. This is NOT desirable,
and leads to swirling.
Once clumping of the abrasive is encountered, the only way to COMPLETELY remove it is
to rinse the pad in soapy water. The pad useless until it air dries, and you’ll have to
install a new one to complete your polishing work. I`ve used a combined process
utilizing a thorough brush of the pad, then compressed air to remove remaining
remnants, and microfiber toweling, without consistent satisfaction. If you want to
achieve cutting-edge performance, don`t cut corners... Use several pads to complete the
session.
The main point is: The abrasive in M105 relies on its lubricants to deliver stellar finishing
results. Further, M105 is at its peak performance when it’s dispersed evenly across the
pad. Use too much, or overdo a spritz of water (causing particle clumping), and you`ll
end up with fine swirling.
con`t...
Ridding the world of swirls, one car at a time!
Part 3:
DEFECT REMOVAL:
After proper priming of the pad has been completed, apply a normal amount of M105 to
the pad. A slower speed setting is desirable, as it helps to minimize fast evaporation of
M105’s lubrication. M105 will effectively cut defects at a very low speed setting, but
typically yields great results on speed setting (4.0-5.0/G100). For HEAVY defect
removal, you may have to use the maximum speed setting. Maximum speed really
shortens the working-cycle of the liquid, and definitely abuses the polishing pads. If you
must use high speed, implement pad swaps (of fresh and similar pads) during your
polishing session.
Use normal to heavy CONSISTENT downward pressure, combined with very slow
movement of the machine (as slow as one inch per second). Four to six slow passes
should do the trick. Once the product has run its working cycle, wipe the surface clean.
If the wipe off is difficult, mist the paint with water or a wipe-off spray, wait a few
seconds, then wipe. If some residue remains, apply a bit of M105 to a dampened
microfiber (rinse in water, then ring to remove excess), and apply to the surface.
AVOID using any other cleaners, polishes, or waxes to remove residue! Many products
contain oils, solvents, etc., that may temporarily alter the surface hardness,
slipperiness, etc., of the paint. Inspect, and if needed, reapply M105 and repeat the
defect removal step. Wipe surface completely clean when all defects are removed.
Reapply as needed to completely remove remaining surface defects.
con`t...
Ridding the world of swirls, one car at a time!
Part 4:
FINAL POLISHING:
Once you’ve satisfactorily removed surface defects, prepare for final polishing. Install a
finishing pad (my preference is the Meguiar’s W9006 SoftBuff tan pad). Prime the pad
(as previously recommended). DO NOT USE AN ABUNDANCE OF PRODUCT. For
3
polishing, a primed pad is essential to satisfactory results, while LESS working liquid
(rather than MORE) delivers the best finish. Use a slow to medium speed setting (1.5-
4.0/G100). You cannot overuse M105, as long as the pad stays moist (and it shouldn’t
scour).
Once your working cycle is done, evaluate the surface. If you feel the need to repeat
the polishing process, use the following method (random-orbital ONLY): Set the pad
into a microfiber towel, and turn on the machine. The microfiber will remove a majority
of the residue, oils, and paint from the pad. USE CAUTION- Make sure the towel does
not get caught in the drive mechanism!
Repeat the same process at least once more, but use a bit MORE pressure and even
LESS product during your second application. Some paints yield even better results
when the pad is simply cleaned, and NO ADDITIONAL PRODUCT is applied. There is a
learning curve involved when attempting to final polish paint with this method. Take the
time to give this step a chance. When done correctly, the final finish should be
stunning.
Occasionally, the surface may need an application of polish to further refine the finish.
M82 Swirl-Free Polish or M205 Ultra Finishing Polish have both performed well for
me.
When using Meguiar’s M82 Swirl-Free Polish:
This product features diminishing abrasives.
To apply: First, set the machine speed to a slow speed setting. As a starting point, use
a 3.0 setting for the G100/PC/UDM, or a 1.0 setting for the G110/220. Next, install a
fresh finishing pad (such as the Meguiar’s W9006 6.5†SoftBuff℠Finishing Pad) and
properly prime it. Allow the product to soak into the pad for approximately one minute.
Apply an adequate amount of polishing liquid to the pad (a thin circle of liquid applied
near the outer edge of the pad’s face, or an X pattern crossing the face will suffice).
Turn the machine on, and apply. Adjust buffer speed and downward pressure to a level
that allows the pad to rotate 1 to 3 times per second. Since this product features
diminishing abrasives, use less downward pressure as the working cycle advances.
When using Meguiar’s M205 Ultra Finishing Polish:
This product features non-diminishing abrasives.
To apply: First, set the machine speed to a medium speed setting. As a starting point,
use a 4.0 setting for the G100/PC/UDM or a 2.0 setting for the G110/G220. Next, install
a fresh finishing pad (such as the Meguiar’s W9006 6.5†SoftBuff℠Finishing Pad) and
properly prime it. Allow the product to soak into the pad for approximately one to two
minutes. Then, apply small drops of polish directly to the pad and massage in thoroughly
(typically, 5 to 7 half-inch drops will suffice). Turn the machine on, and apply. Adjust
buffer speed and downward pressure to a level that allows the pad to rotate 3 to 6 times
per second. Since this product features non-diminishing abrasives, consistent downward
pressure should be used throughout the application cycle.
Kevin Brown
the end
Ridding the world of swirls, one car at a time!
That sounds like something I``ll have to try. In the past I have just tried misting QD or distilled water to prolong the working time but I was never 100% satisfied with that.
-Jordan
Over the Top Detailing
I removed my previous posts about the method. I am on the phone with Kevin, and he will soon be posting a better write up, with pictures (i think), and more explanation to remove all possible confusion.
Ridding the world of swirls, one car at a time!
Originally Posted by gmblack3a
Thanks Bryan! Do you find that you use a lot of product with this method?
Why was the Kevin Brown method removed?????
Only Z Best Detailing-Automotive Concours Detailing Services
http://ozbdetailing.com
https://www.facebook.com/ozbautodetailing
I asked that it be removed because the information that was posted is part of a much bigger paper that I am really trying to get posted by the weekend. I asked that it be removed, and apologize if it was the wrong thing to do. The info was sent via e-mail to clarify the procedure to a member, and I said it would be okay to use the info to adjust or add to his post (referring to the `method`)... The entire e-mailed procedure was mistakenly posted!
Sorry for the confusion.
I look forward to finishing the `paper` and posting it ASAP.
The method as outlined in this thread is close to correct, but a couple of sentences added to it should hold over for the next few days.
Brian can add those points to his post if he chooses to do so.
Weekend warrior can add or modify it also, as has the e-mail, too, and knows what is specifically missing.
The big paper not only outlines the `method` but also explains the reasoning behind why I think it works so well. It also contains lots of random info about R/O polishers, pads, saturation, backing plates, and other stuff. I tried to add some new advice (or a different take on the info already out there). It was fun to write but has taken a lot of time to dial in.... So I didn`t want to jump the gun and post just the condensed version of the Todd Helme named `Kevin Brown Method`. :grinno:
Excellent! I look forward to it KB. Thanks for taking the time!
So what I get from this is there is a polishing method that works great. But know one can explain it in simple steps. So that leaves out the novice from understanding what it is.
MDRX8
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