New M105 is kicking but w/ KB method

**Todd@RUPES** · 03-05-2009, 10:38 AM

Originally Posted by Polished&Waxed

can you use white sonus pads in place of the orange LC pads? y or y not?

(?cell structure?)

Don`t know as well, but I hand the KBM to work extremely well with all pads, just with varying results to the finish and the speed of the cut. Example, on a Lake Country Yellow Pad you will achieve cut faster but have more micromarring (as the pad itself is fairly abrasive and not uniform). The open structure of the cells seem to keep the pad slightly cleaner longer.

I like several pads that I will list in the answer below along with my experience.

Originally Posted by sirhubbs

What Meguiar foam pad would be recommended for this?

I think Kevin mostly uses the yellow polishing pad?

Here are some of my favorite pads and the differences I have noticed.

Meguiars` Burgandy Cutting Pad (The new, closed cell, version).

Works amazingly well at removing deeper marring quickly. This pad also lasts longer and keeps its original rebound longer (extremely durable considering the abuse the KBM requires). Will leave increased microhazing on the paint compared to a Lake Country Orange pad but not so much that additonal steps are needed. (2nd most used)

Lake Country Orange- I would recommend a lower profile pad that is close in diameter to the backing plate tbecause these pads will go soft quickly. However they provide enough cutting power to get the job done with very light microhazing.

Prototype Foam from Lake Country- I have been testing a prototype foam for Lake Country that is completely closed cell and works AMAZING for both cutting and finishing with this method. It leaves the fainest marring with M105 (sometimes finishing perfectly). I usually switch to M205 and buzz over the area to clean up an residual microhazing and get a perfect finish. Slightly less cut then the Lake Country orange (but again the constant cutting action means that slightly more pressure or time working will equal this out) but finishes near LSP ready!

Lake Country White- Same as the prototype foam but even less cut

Lake Country Gray, Meguiars Black finishing- A lot less cut from the softer structure, but will finish LSP ready on most paints with high gloss with M105. I like using M205 on a stiffer pad.

Originally Posted by shine

For those that have to used this method--do you prefer using the PC/UDM/G110 or forced rotation Flex?

This is wierd but I like smaller pads on a Porter Cable for cutting, heavy polishing with M105 and like the Flex for finishing with M205. Pressure is more important that rotational speed (infact rotation isn`t necessary, I think Kevin said that optimally the pad would rotate about 3-5 times a minute just to keep the surface uniform). The Flex can be a bear to control at extremely high pressure as well because of its backwards rotation.

I like using beleveled 4 inch pads for the most part because I just about anywhere I need to and focus more pressure on specific areas for scratch removal.

**imported_shine** · 03-05-2009, 10:59 AM

Thanks Todd and Brian. I was considering buying a Flex or G110 as a backup to my original UDM since the UDM is prone to failure--one had died on me so far. I can imagine the Flex giving quite a workout if a lot of pressure is added.

**Accumulator** · 03-05-2009, 12:49 PM

Originally Posted by TH0001

..This is wierd but I like smaller pads on a Porter Cable for cutting, heavy polishing with M105 and like the Flex for finishing with M205. Pressure is more important that rotational speed...

Heh heh, doesn`t seem weird to me; I never find the PC all that happy with applied pressure unless I`m using the 4" pads.

Oh, and add me to the list of people who are really impressed that *you`re* preferring this to your rotaries. Guys like me, well, yeah...I`m no rotary-Meister. But for *you* to prefer it, well, that`s something

The one thing that has me a bit concerned here is the idea of applying a lot of pressure with a Flex 3401. I don`t mind giving my tools a real workout, but I can see it precipitating problems with the Flex :think:

Gotta try this with the Cyclo some time...

**imported_Dave1** · 03-05-2009, 01:10 PM

Originally Posted by Accumulator

The one thing that has me a bit concerned here is the idea of applying a lot of pressure with a Flex 3401. I don`t mind giving my tools a real workout, but I can see it precipitating problems with the Flex :think:

Gotta try this with the Cyclo some time...

I`m thinking the same thing..........

So.........Menzerna products for my Flex and M105 for my PC......

Hmmm......

Maybe the Cyclo comes back as the king again.......

The more you learn the more you realize, "Ya never know"........

**imported_shine** · 03-05-2009, 01:53 PM

There is never only one correct way to compound/polish paint, that`s for sure.

**wannafbody** · 03-05-2009, 09:24 PM

In my limited experience a PC with 4 inch pads can do some pretty good correction with the right compound and with less spatter.

**jefftheman** · 03-06-2009, 04:12 AM

I`ve always prefered the 5.5 low pro pads with the PC. You simply get more throw. I don`t know the physics, but it works this way. I`m guessing that using this pad over a larger one saves product when saturating it and holds it closer to the surface.

I will be using this techinique this weekend.

Fingers crossed.

**imported_agentf1** · 03-06-2009, 06:54 AM

for those concerned about using a Flex for this you should pick up a BO6040 as it is very similar to the Flex but a much sturdier machine.

**Junebug** · 03-06-2009, 09:05 AM

Man - I was just thinking about the B06040! That machine never got much press here and maybe it`s time. I was torn between that and the Flex - bought the Flex, like it but I`d love to try the B06040, just to see if it was less noisy. Only thing, I`m hanging on to my job by my fingertips, can`t afford to buy anything untill this economy picks up.