New M105 is kicking but w/ KB method

[gmblack3]

Me thinks this is how you break the shafts on the rotary.

Me knows that you don`t use a rotary for the KB method.

[imported_weekendwarrior]

^^^ Lol ^^^

[imported_weekendwarrior]

Bryan (gmblack3a) just forwarded me this write up from Kevin. Bryan asked me to post it, as he`s about to start working on a car. It will probably take a couple of posts, so wait to respond on it until I have posted the wole thing.



**THIS IS KEVIN BROWN`S METHOD, not mine, and I am in no way trying to take any kind of credit, just forwarding the details on his method**



Part 1:

Kevin Brown’s method for applying Meguiar`s M105 Ultra Cut Compound or M86 So1o

Cut & Polish Cream with a random-orbital:

I`ve found that M105 Ultra Cut Compound and M86 So1o Cut & Polish Cream

deliver best results when used in a similar manner. Not surprising, given that both

liquids utilize non-diminishing abrasive technology. The directions below apply to both

liquids, but M105 is referred to in the directions.

• M86 is NOT recommended for use with a random-orbital.

• M105 original formula is NOT recommended for use with a random-orbital.

• M105 updated formula IS recommended for use with a random-orbital.

Results may vary, so it is best to practice this method on a test panel prior to using it on

a vehicle. All recommendations are in reference to applying these liquids via RANDOMORBITAL

machine. This method also works well with a forced-rotation/fixed-orbit

machine (such as the popular Flex 3401VRG).

A different method should be used if polishing paint with a rotary machine.

Generally:

• M105 outperforms M86 in terms of speed for removing defects.

• M105 is capable of leaving a near perfect finish, but not on all types of paint.

• Original formula M105 can be difficult to remove, especially on very dry paint (old,

heavily oxidized, or improperly mixed prior to spraying).

• M86 is bulletproof- it works well on virtually ANY type of paint.

• M86 can occasionally outperform M105 in terms of defect removal and final finish.

• M86 remains workable for a long period of time.



con`t....

[dublifecrisis]

great thread everyone. I was reading on this KB method last week. I found it a little funny with the whole prming the pad, spinning it in a MF etc...



However, now I find myself coming on car this weekend and the customer is ONLY interested in removing ALL swirls. No interior, no wheels JUST correction. Since my only machine is a PC, this request would normally make me a little nervous as this would be a challenge in the past.



I do have both M105 and M205 and this is what I am planning to use. PFW was going to be my pad choice but I also have 6-8 5.5" orange pads.



I suppose I need to study the KB method a little more.



KEEP IT COMING!!!! Hopefully we`ll see this write-up Keving is working.

[imported_weekendwarrior]

Part 2:

M105 Ultra Cut Compound used with a RANDOM-ORBITAL for DEFECT removal:

PRIME:

First, prime the pad with an ample amount of M105. Rub it in aggressively (by hand) to

ensure complete pad coverage. If needed, continue to add more buffing liquid until it is

visually obvious that the pad face is consistently primed, and feels moist to the touch.

The goal is to fill the pores of the pad face with buffing liquid. Priming the pad in this

manner dramatically increases the surface area of buffing liquid that will be in contact

with the paint surface.

It is not necessary nor is it desirable to create an excess buildup of M105 on the pad.

Too much buildup above the surface of the pad can decrease overall performance.

AVOID priming the pad with a fine mist of water, Final Inspection, Last Touch, (or any

other similar product). Why?

While wetting the pad or surface increases wetness, it does not necessarily add lubricity.

In fact, if too much wetting agent is added, it can help to wash away (or displace) the

buffing liquid’s built-in lubricating ingredients.

Original formula M105 can get a bit dusty at times. This is both

unfortunate AND fortunate. While the dusting is bothersome, it helps to remove

the contamination-laden and moisture-deprived abrasive from a freshly polished surface.

Since M105`s abrasive is so fine, the addition of moisture AFTER it has been run through

its working cycle helps gather all the abrasive dust remnants. The micro-sized abrasive

particles remain very aggressive, and mechanically pack together. This grouping of

particle matter creates larger particles, uneven in size & shape. This is NOT desirable,

and leads to swirling.

Once clumping of the abrasive is encountered, the only way to COMPLETELY remove it is

to rinse the pad in soapy water. The pad useless until it air dries, and you’ll have to

install a new one to complete your polishing work. I`ve used a combined process

utilizing a thorough brush of the pad, then compressed air to remove remaining

remnants, and microfiber toweling, without consistent satisfaction. If you want to

achieve cutting-edge performance, don`t cut corners... Use several pads to complete the

session.

The main point is: The abrasive in M105 relies on its lubricants to deliver stellar finishing

results. Further, M105 is at its peak performance when it’s dispersed evenly across the

pad. Use too much, or overdo a spritz of water (causing particle clumping), and you`ll

end up with fine swirling.



con`t...

[imported_weekendwarrior]

Part 3:

DEFECT REMOVAL:

After proper priming of the pad has been completed, apply a normal amount of M105 to

the pad. A slower speed setting is desirable, as it helps to minimize fast evaporation of

M105’s lubrication. M105 will effectively cut defects at a very low speed setting, but

typically yields great results on speed setting (4.0-5.0/G100). For HEAVY defect

removal, you may have to use the maximum speed setting. Maximum speed really

shortens the working-cycle of the liquid, and definitely abuses the polishing pads. If you

must use high speed, implement pad swaps (of fresh and similar pads) during your

polishing session.

Use normal to heavy CONSISTENT downward pressure, combined with very slow

movement of the machine (as slow as one inch per second). Four to six slow passes

should do the trick. Once the product has run its working cycle, wipe the surface clean.

If the wipe off is difficult, mist the paint with water or a wipe-off spray, wait a few

seconds, then wipe. If some residue remains, apply a bit of M105 to a dampened

microfiber (rinse in water, then ring to remove excess), and apply to the surface.

AVOID using any other cleaners, polishes, or waxes to remove residue! Many products

contain oils, solvents, etc., that may temporarily alter the surface hardness,

slipperiness, etc., of the paint. Inspect, and if needed, reapply M105 and repeat the

defect removal step. Wipe surface completely clean when all defects are removed.

Reapply as needed to completely remove remaining surface defects.



con`t...

[imported_weekendwarrior]

Part 4:

FINAL POLISHING:

Once you’ve satisfactorily removed surface defects, prepare for final polishing. Install a

finishing pad (my preference is the Meguiar’s W9006 SoftBuff® tan pad). Prime the pad

(as previously recommended). DO NOT USE AN ABUNDANCE OF PRODUCT. For

3

polishing, a primed pad is essential to satisfactory results, while LESS working liquid

(rather than MORE) delivers the best finish. Use a slow to medium speed setting (1.5-

4.0/G100). You cannot overuse M105, as long as the pad stays moist (and it shouldn’t

scour).

Once your working cycle is done, evaluate the surface. If you feel the need to repeat

the polishing process, use the following method (random-orbital ONLY): Set the pad

into a microfiber towel, and turn on the machine. The microfiber will remove a majority

of the residue, oils, and paint from the pad. USE CAUTION- Make sure the towel does

not get caught in the drive mechanism!

Repeat the same process at least once more, but use a bit MORE pressure and even

LESS product during your second application. Some paints yield even better results

when the pad is simply cleaned, and NO ADDITIONAL PRODUCT is applied. There is a

learning curve involved when attempting to final polish paint with this method. Take the

time to give this step a chance. When done correctly, the final finish should be

stunning.

Occasionally, the surface may need an application of polish to further refine the finish.

M82 Swirl-Free Polish or M205 Ultra Finishing Polish have both performed well for

me.

When using Meguiar’s M82 Swirl-Free Polish:

This product features diminishing abrasives.

To apply: First, set the machine speed to a slow speed setting. As a starting point, use

a 3.0 setting for the G100/PC/UDM, or a 1.0 setting for the G110/220. Next, install a

fresh finishing pad (such as the Meguiar’s W9006 6.5â€� SoftBuffâ„¢ Finishing Pad) and

properly prime it. Allow the product to soak into the pad for approximately one minute.

Apply an adequate amount of polishing liquid to the pad (a thin circle of liquid applied

near the outer edge of the pad’s face, or an X pattern crossing the face will suffice).

Turn the machine on, and apply. Adjust buffer speed and downward pressure to a level

that allows the pad to rotate 1 to 3 times per second. Since this product features

diminishing abrasives, use less downward pressure as the working cycle advances.

When using Meguiar’s M205 Ultra Finishing Polish:

This product features non-diminishing abrasives.

To apply: First, set the machine speed to a medium speed setting. As a starting point,

use a 4.0 setting for the G100/PC/UDM or a 2.0 setting for the G110/G220. Next, install

a fresh finishing pad (such as the Meguiar’s W9006 6.5â€� SoftBuffâ„¢ Finishing Pad) and

properly prime it. Allow the product to soak into the pad for approximately one to two

minutes. Then, apply small drops of polish directly to the pad and massage in thoroughly

(typically, 5 to 7 half-inch drops will suffice). Turn the machine on, and apply. Adjust

buffer speed and downward pressure to a level that allows the pad to rotate 3 to 6 times

per second. Since this product features non-diminishing abrasives, consistent downward

pressure should be used throughout the application cycle.

Kevin Brown



the end

[dublifecrisis]

awesome! thanks Weekend Warrior

[imported_shine]

That sounds like something I``ll have to try. In the past I have just tried misting QD or distilled water to prolong the working time but I was never 100% satisfied with that.

[imported_weekendwarrior]

I removed my previous posts about the method. I am on the phone with Kevin, and he will soon be posting a better write up, with pictures (i think), and more explanation to remove all possible confusion.

[blk45]

Guys, The master himself Kevin Brown has contacted me. He is in the middle of writing a process sheet out. I have seen some of it and it is very thorough. He or I hope to have it posted here in a few days.

Thanks Bryan! Do you find that you use a lot of product with this method?

[Pats300zx]

Why was the Kevin Brown method removed?????

[Kevin Brown]

I asked that it be removed because the information that was posted is part of a much bigger paper that I am really trying to get posted by the weekend. I asked that it be removed, and apologize if it was the wrong thing to do. The info was sent via e-mail to clarify the procedure to a member, and I said it would be okay to use the info to adjust or add to his post (referring to the `method`)... The entire e-mailed procedure was mistakenly posted!



Sorry for the confusion.

I look forward to finishing the `paper` and posting it ASAP.

The method as outlined in this thread is close to correct, but a couple of sentences added to it should hold over for the next few days.

Brian can add those points to his post if he chooses to do so.

Weekend warrior can add or modify it also, as has the e-mail, too, and knows what is specifically missing.



The big paper not only outlines the `method` but also explains the reasoning behind why I think it works so well. It also contains lots of random info about R/O polishers, pads, saturation, backing plates, and other stuff. I tried to add some new advice (or a different take on the info already out there). It was fun to write but has taken a lot of time to dial in.... So I didn`t want to jump the gun and post just the condensed version of the Todd Helme named `Kevin Brown Method`. :grinno:

[blk45]

Excellent! I look forward to it KB. Thanks for taking the time!

[DM101]

So what I get from this is there is a polishing method that works great. But know one can explain it in simple steps. So that leaves out the novice from understanding what it is.