Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 30
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    420
    Post Thanks / Like
    I finally had an open weekend to detail my own car with my new makita 9227c I used the normal 2 stage process of SIP and UF SE. I spread the SIP at 800-900 rpms worked it at about 1200 and then began the polishing at 1500 then slowed back down to 1200 with a white LC pad. At first the pad was skipping all over the place but after a few tries I got the hang of it. When I used my UDM I could work SIP to a complete dust with a slight haze. With the makita it was dusting but it still had that oily residue left on the paint. No matter how long I worked the polish for at 1500 it would not dust as much vs my udm (I didnt want to make more passes for fear of burning through the paint but it was definitely longer than 2-3 mins for a 3x3 area. I pulled the car out into the sun and noticed some very slight buffer trails or light haze left behind.



    I then followed up with a grey LC pad with UF SE and used the same speeds as SIP. I got it to finish down pretty well and removed the holgrams/trails (but still left a slight oily residue behind but not as bad as SIP). All pads used in this process were 6.5inches in diameter with about a 4-5inch line of polish down the middle. The weather was at about 57degrees farenheit so Im not too sure if this is a prime example of SIP acting funny or not. Overall im very impressed with the rotary as it corrected much better and faster vs my udm on 4inch pads. The makita at about 1500 actually sounded slow vs the udm at speed 6 plus it vibrated wayyy less than the udm did. The only problem I had was working on vertical surfaces such as the door where the pad would skip all over the place (any tips on this??). I had the speed lock on with my other hand on the head not bail handle of the polisher. I kept it flat at all times and used the polishers weight only. Does my final product look as expected? Does my pic at 1500 look as how its supposed to or should it be more "clear"?





    spreading SIP at 8-900





    Fully spread and worked at 1200





    after a 1500 then burnished back down to about 1000-1200. Should it look like this??





    pulled out into the sun to check my work (After a 50/50 IPA wipe down) very VERY slight buffer trails





    closer shot of the door with slight buffer trails (cleaned up by UF SE on a grey pad later on)





    Front fender received the same treatment as the door

  2. #2
    SuperBee364's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    4,710
    Post Thanks / Like
    Two to three minutes is a *very long* working time for SIP, IMO. I always use SIP with a wool pad, but I only get three (and occasionally four) passes out of it, for about 30 seconds working time. You should get more working time from a foam pad, but even then it sounds like you`re overworking the product. Wiith a white LC foam pad, SIP should be finishing down to darn-near LSP ready; no compounding marks, haze, or holograms. If you`re getting those symptoms, you`re definitely overwoking it. When I first started using SIP, I overworked it quite often, because it just doesn`t "clear out" the same way most polishes do when it`s done. It still looks kinda milky. You have to go more by the dryness of the product rather than the clarity to determine when SIP is done.



    Adding a few drops of 106ff really extends the working time, and gives it more of a traditional "clear" finish. Just don`t add very much, because it will rapidly take away SIP`s bite. It also lessons SIP`s jumpiness.
    Sage advice from Greg Nichols: "Hey, Supe? When you`re trying to get the air bubble out of your syringe of Opti-Coat, don`t point it at your face, mmmkay?"

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    420
    Post Thanks / Like
    thanks for the input superbee. I was just so used to SIP dusting everywhere that I thought I was "underworking" since it wasnt dusting as much.

  4. #4
    SuperBee364's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    4,710
    Post Thanks / Like
    Anytime, Carbon... I never would have gotten the hang of SIP without the help of Rydawg, TH0001, and a few other guys around here.
    Sage advice from Greg Nichols: "Hey, Supe? When you`re trying to get the air bubble out of your syringe of Opti-Coat, don`t point it at your face, mmmkay?"

  5. #5
    Dream Machines SVR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    2,964
    Post Thanks / Like
    I work SIP and 106 for up to four and a half minutes with no problems at all

    The reason is that I like to go from 1500 to 1600 (depends on paint type) and then go down and burnish at 100 to 200 rpm increments all the way back to 600



    Plus the longer you burnish it, the better the gloss is

    But for those who don`t have the time, 2.5 to 3.5 mins is enough



    20 to 60 seconds just ain`t enough
    Car care/detailing sadly isn`t high on the agenda for 98% of australians.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    420
    Post Thanks / Like
    hey there SVR thanks for your input. Does my pic showing the 1500-1200 burnish look typical of what SIP should looked like after it has been worked/polished? does it still look too milky? should I work the polish longer by the looks of the pic?? My final product seems to look pretty good with very SLIGHT buffer trails.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    2,060
    Post Thanks / Like
    I don`t see buffer trails in those pictures? I see some sort of haze in the 5th picture down between the bright spots on the back of the door.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    The Dirty South
    Posts
    234
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Carbon Blue
    The only problem I had was working on vertical surfaces such as the door where the pad would skip all over the place (any tips on this??). I had the speed lock on with my other hand on the head not bail handle of the polisher.


    I keep one hand on the head (arched up so the back of my hand has tension on the handle) and the other hand (once I lock the trigger) on the "body". I`ll usually feel it with my hands in those locations before it starts to jump, i.e. you`ll feel it start pulling before it happens.

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    420
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Mindflux
    I don`t see buffer trails in those pictures? I see some sort of haze in the 5th picture down between the bright spots on the back of the door.


    yea I dont know if I could classify them as buffer trails but they appear as very LIGHT hazing. It was very hard to see from different points of angles.

  10. #10
    SuperBee364's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    4,710
    Post Thanks / Like
    Carbon, I really don`t mean to start an arguing match between myself and SVR (or between *anyone* here, TBH), but I do have to say a couple things...



    There must be a HUGE HUGE HUGE difference in either the SIP sold here and what they get in Australia, or something, because there is ABSOLUTELY NO WAY IN the universe`s warmest place that I could ever come even close to working SIP for a full sixty seconds, let alone the time that SVR suggests.



    The pictures you have posted are *classic* results of overworking your polish. I`m going to ask (with all due respect to SVR), that you go ahead and try the recommendations I gave you in my earlier post, then post your results. Please, just give it a try. Your pictures are classic, and so is the cure.



    Again, I don`t want to start any type of arguement; if SVR says he can get that much time out of SIP, that`s awesome. But I am telling you that what you are seeing *is* the classic results of an overworked polish.



    Edit: Save the "burnishing and glossing" that SVR is talking about for your final polishing step, not the SIP.
    Sage advice from Greg Nichols: "Hey, Supe? When you`re trying to get the air bubble out of your syringe of Opti-Coat, don`t point it at your face, mmmkay?"

  11. #11

    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    420
    Post Thanks / Like
    no problem superbee, Iam definitely open to try anything new as Iam looking for newer and better techniques to improve upon my skill. Besides you always learn something new from intellectual arguments and having an open mind to accept them does wonders. On my next detail I will try working SIP again for about 45 seconds to 55 seconds on a white LC pad and see what the results are. I did use UF SE to clean up anything that SIP left over and it DOES WONDERS! I knew it finished wet which was kinda weird but it definitely upped the clarity more than I expected.

  12. #12

    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    3,930
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hm. I will have to time how long it takes me to break down SIP. I don`t think it`s ever been 4 minutes, but it does seem like longer than 60 seconds. I`ll let you know tomorrow.



    FWIW, if the pad is skipping then odds are SB is right and you`re breaking it down too much.
    Click here to see what I`ve been working on, or here to see my YouTube page!

  13. #13
    SuperBee364's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    4,710
    Post Thanks / Like
    Good to hear.
    Sage advice from Greg Nichols: "Hey, Supe? When you`re trying to get the air bubble out of your syringe of Opti-Coat, don`t point it at your face, mmmkay?"

  14. #14
    SuperBee364's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    4,710
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Picus
    Hm. I will have to time how long it takes me to break down SIP. I don`t think it`s ever been 4 minutes, but it does seem like longer than 60 seconds. I`ll let you know tomorrow.



    FWIW, if the pad is skipping then odds are SB is right and you`re breaking it down too much.


    I use wool with SIP, which (as another very general rule of thumb) seems to knock almost half the working time off of foam. When I do use foam with SIP (not very often), I get just about one minute of working time. This is in my environmental conditions, which includes single-digit humidity most of the time.
    Sage advice from Greg Nichols: "Hey, Supe? When you`re trying to get the air bubble out of your syringe of Opti-Coat, don`t point it at your face, mmmkay?"

  15. #15

    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    420
    Post Thanks / Like
    hey superbee what kind of wool are you using with SIP?? size and place of purchase??

 

 
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. funny
    By Ronkh in forum Hot Tub
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-04-2013, 11:58 PM
  2. PC7424XP acting very strange with a certain pad
    By Richard Grasa in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 11-13-2012, 08:25 AM
  3. flex cord is acting up
    By tssdetailing in forum Machine Polishing & Sanding
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-15-2012, 08:25 AM
  4. Funny....but also sad...
    By Acura_RL in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 05-10-2003, 03:41 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •