Originally Posted by charger17
Similar is true with carpet and fabric protectants using a flourochemical bonding process.
Originally Posted by charger17
Similar is true with carpet and fabric protectants using a flourochemical bonding process.
6 or 7 years ago, a very similar comparison was shown on the Acura NSX forum. As I recall, the testor used an old red 1991 NSX hood which he cleand and striped into 9 squares. His chief interest was to see how the really expensive Zymol compared in looks and durability to the Zymol carried in most auto supply stores.
This test was an eye-opener. Initially, all 9 squares looked great, but after some time exposed to the weather, the most durable was not Zymol, but the old (pre-ZFX) Zaino Z-1 followed by Z-2. Since my Reatta was a very similar red, I tried Zaino and have become one of those Zaino-holics.
The website was: http://www.nsxsc.com/nsexcitement/waxtest.html
But it is apparently no longer a working link.
Please keep us posted with follow-ups. As well as your choice of carwash and whether or not you use qd`s, and, if so, which ones.
Z-2 Pro and Z-CS are promoted as lasting at least 9 months; and if a "cow or a countess" can make it 9 months, I guess those of us on this forum can also. And we`d all like to know which is more durable.
Since I also have a silver car (among others), I`m quite interested in your long-term results.
6 or 7 years ago, a very similar comparison was shown on the Acura NSX forum. As I recall, the tester used an old red 1991 NSX hood which he cleand and striped into 9 squares. His chief interest was to see how the really expensive Zymol compared in looks and durability to the Zymol carried in most auto supply stores.
This test was an eye-opener. Initially, all 9 squares looked great, but after some time exposed to the weather, the most durable was not Zymol, but the old (pre-ZFX) Zaino Z-1 followed by Z-2. Since my Reatta was a very similar red, I tried Zaino and have become one of those Zaino-holics.
The website was: http://www.nsxsc.com/nsexcitement/waxtest.html
But it is apparently no longer a working link.
Please keep us posted with follow-ups. As well as your choice of carwash and whether or not you use qd`s, and, if so, which ones.
Z-2 Pro and Z-CS are promoted as lasting at least 9 months; and if a "cow or a countess" can make it 9 months, I guess those of us on this forum can also. And we`d all like to know which is more durable.
Originally Posted by Scottwax
Hi Scott:
Do you recommend the same process for Klasse Sealant Glaze?
Charlie
Zonyl is the next generation Teflon. We`ve been using R2000 in our shops for over 15 years with great success. Customers rave about the finish and how their vehicles look year after year. We apply to 30 vehicles per day, 300 day`s a year but I`m no expert like the rest of you guy`s.
Great thread I love comparisons! My only question is why are you tormenting us. A true professional would have silently started this test 9 months ago and posted only when he had his results! ha..ha..! Just kidding!
Originally Posted by gldetail
No, your not an expert and you definetly didn`t study science in school. I don`t think you get it, TEFLON cannot bond to the paints surface unless it is super heated, understand? Not yet, let me repeat, TEFLON cannot bond to the paints surface unless it is super heated...
Get it yet, its science...
As far as you customers, I have seen many floored by the results from the hack shop, so your point is equally retarded...
Now, I want you to repeat, TEFLON cannot bond to the paints surface with out being super heated, get it yet?
Originally Posted by TH0001
Wow, someone needed to be breastfeed a little longer!
I never argued the science of Zonyl. I said that we applied R2000 to customers cars with great results. Let`s see 30 cars a day x 300 day x 15 years. Wow, that`s alot of satisfied customers from a hack shop.
Grow up! 45 detail shops have opened and closed in our area in 15 years yet were still here? hmmmm. Maybe you could be my marketing/science director so I could stay open 1 more year. please !!!!!!
There is a lot of Teflon myth out there. Actually Teflon refers to a group of compounds. The one most people are aware of is polytetrafluoroethylene, or PTFE which is a long carbon chain bonded solely to fluorine atoms. The other two common forms are FEP (fluorinated ethylene-propylene) and PFA (perfluoroalkoxy polymer resin) which have similar structure to PTFE, but some of the groups are substituted to make the material more workable for its intended aplication.
First, what is teflon? It was discovered accidentally as many of these things seem to have been by the chemisist Roy Plunkett working for Kinetic Chemicals (later bought out by DuPont) in 1938 (he was trying to develop a new CFC (chlorofluorocarbon) refrigerant. Essentailly he got a solidifed mess, not ideal as a refrigerant.
The structure of teflon as the PTFE name suggests is a long carbon chain, where every branch is bonded to fluorine. If you look at a periodic table, Fluorine is the most electronegative and reactive of all of the elements. Once it is bonded to the two free electrons of a carbon atom in a chain, the covalent bond will transfer to very little else. Teflon has a melting point of 327 C, although above 260 C, its integrity starts to degrade, also notable, it has the lowest known coefficient of friction for a solid which is the well known and desired non-stick property.
Now the interesting part. Teflon, once it is formed will not bond to anything, not even itself. The stuff that goes on your pans is in fact not PTFE, because there is no way to get it to bond to the metal. Rather, some of the fluoride atoms are replaced with reactive groups (this is where the big PFOA (perfluorooctanoic acid) scare comes in), and the sprayed on the material which we want to be non-stick. The item is then baked, and the reactive groups break and bond with the desired surface, technically this is no longer PTFE, because some of the bonds are not to fluorine atoms, but it is still known commonly by the teflon name.
So why will PTFE not work for paint protection? Exactly the same reason cited earlier, it bonds to almost nothing much less your paint, and it has to be baked on. There are teflon like components that can be used and will cross link to other polymers, but anything chemical claiming to have teflon in it is most likely marketing crap (particularly oils, remember there are much better lubricants than teflon, it just has a low coefficient of friction for a solid, many of the more common solid lubricants rely on the fact that they break and slide across themselves easily, or have a shape that mimics a ball bearing, teflon does neither of these things and does not make a fantastic lubricant.).
Wikipedia and the related links have more good information if you are interested.
Ok, I am done with the Teflon rant. I can`t wait to see the results of this comparison. It is always nice to see well set up tests, and I will be following this one.
Bumping with intrest on the results ............... and THANK-YOU for your trouble.........this has to be a pain in your A$$ to keep it all straight
Please let us all known if someone messes up and putts the wrong product on the wrong panel
Originally Posted by gldetail
More like WOW that`s a lot of wool to pull over a lot of eyes, that will take a pro years to bring back to the light, jmo of course
Oh, and from what DuPonts website has, Zonyl is under the Teflon name as a lot of other fluoropolymers are generically lumped together. I think the post saying it is the next generation Teflon is probably where this argument is coming from, (it is different, no one ever used Teflon as a surfactant, that is for sure, although the DuPont literature is inconsistent, and there are a lot of types of Zonyl, from alcohols to very fine ground PTFE).
From DuPont: (www2 . dupont.com/Zonyl_Foraperle/en_US/products/zonyl_pgs/surfactants . html) also
(www2 . dupont.com/Teflon_Industrial/en_US/products/product_by_type/additives/index . html)
"ZonylĂ‚® Fluorosurfactants & Coating Additives
Surfactants are a substance which aggregates or absorbs at the surfaces and interfaces with a system - and changes their properties. DuPont™ ZonylĂ‚® products are fluorocarbon-based surfactants (Fluorosurfactants). Fluorosurfactants additives enhance the properties of the formulations such as improved wetting/spreading, leveling, penetrating, foaming, chemical stability, thermal stability, and can substantially reduce surface tensions.
Fluorosurfactants are versatile and can be used with a wide variety of materials such as paint and coatings, adhesives, waxes and polishes, and cleaning products.
Coatings ZonylĂ‚® products improve properties such as wetting, leveling, defoaming, blocking resistance, open time, and reduction of surface tension."
Never personally heard of or used R2000 I am sure the people here would appreciate it in a comparo, it may be the next great detailing discover, like the grout sponge .
`R2000 was a product that GM developed with DuPont. When they stopped the program CPC took it over. We\`ve applied the product to over 100,000 vehicles in the salt laden \r\nState of Michigan with great results. We have a rebuy rate of over 98% which to me is say\`sit all. It works. 15 years and 100.000 cars is text results enough for me.`
Originally Posted by elsdragon314
Thanks for the research. I hope the test results bear out the success we`ve had.
For what it is worth I have used flourocarbon protectants (teflon) in the carpet industry for years. They work, and work well. as stated above they make a sacrificail barrier, ie just like a typical wax. They increase surface tension, oil resistance, dye resistance, and water resistance. As far as carpet/fabric protectants go their great weekness is ultra violet light. It breaks down the protectant over time. That is okay, because the traffic on the carpet/fabric would have already soiled to the point of it needing to be recleaned.
It`s a similar principal to daily driver cars. you can put a nine month sealant on it, but chances are it will need a clay and light polish at 6 months.
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