Anyone use PS as a final polish after using a compound to remove haze and micro marring from a compound?
Should I use a white or orange LC pad?
Anyone use PS as a final polish after using a compound to remove haze and micro marring from a compound?
Should I use a white or orange LC pad?
2011 Winter Frost Nissan Maxima SV-Sport
2012 Black Toyota Highlander Limited
Club: Flex Member
I used it with Menzerna`s 5 inch orange pad which is their one-step pad. It is fairly stiff, but it will finish beautifully. They have a hard white cutting pad and a knitted wool pad.
It worked outstandingly with Riwax` 6.5 inch low profiles; with all three hardnesses (light cut, polish, finish - all on the softer side of their respective spectrums).
OPS finishes out nicely with a polishing pad - should be able to remove micromarring with an LC white providing the clear isn`t too hard. I generally use it with a Propel Green.
I normally use either white LC polishing pads via PC and white Cyclo finishing pads via Cyclo. Does a great job removing minor hazing and leaving a really nice finish.
thanx guys going to use it today!
2011 Winter Frost Nissan Maxima SV-Sport
2012 Black Toyota Highlander Limited
Club: Flex Member
on hard clears, my poliseal did absolutely nothing - BMW
on my soft toyota clear, poliseal took out some defects and left the finish super slick and glassy!
on a brand new car I did, poliseal left a super slick perfect finish - nissan sentra
all used with a white LC pad on the PC at speed 5, as 6 makes it disappear too quickly for me
I was amazed at how OPS was able to remove the micromarring left behind after using OP on an Edge green w/rotary. And this was using a PC with an Edge blue, just to see how much work it would be. I didn`t have to work it much at all. This was on 07 Infiniti black.
Could be from my new car being only 2 months old so the paint might still be a little soft. Would the paint still be hardening at this point or should that process already have completed?
Maybe I should try OP on Edge blue, though the blue seems a bit too soft.
And yes, swirls all thanks to my dealer when I first bought the car.
Originally Posted by bertmauricio
I`d guess that the marring was from the pad itself - cutting pads like the edge green don`t always finish out sans micro-marring, particularly on softer clears.
used it on my detail today and it came out great, i will post pics in click and brag
used a orange pad tho cause i dont get anything from it with a white pad
2011 Winter Frost Nissan Maxima SV-Sport
2012 Black Toyota Highlander Limited
Club: Flex Member
Good point. I started on green with OP on a PC and it was just taking too long so I broke out the rotary and used the same pad. I only did a few panels so I`ll step down to blue and see how that goes.
Bert, how much product are you using when working with OP?
The factory paints are fully cured and hardened when they reach the owner. Well, typically...
I was not using much at all, after my initial thin circle. About 4 pea size dots spread out a bit. Maybe I should`ve worked it a little longer? Oh, and one more thing, I only saw it in certain areas, not the entire panel.
Interesting. The amount seems to be correct, but OP breaks down quite quick when the speed is right. Of course, the extra workability is great so you can benefit a lot from the full potential of the polish. The most valuable observation is the patchy nature of the marred areas. Maybe some "invisible" picked up dirt/dust? Do the marred patches show a certain pattern? Or were they "special" areas where the paint was butchered a bit more by the dealership?
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