FK1 paint decontamination vs. clay bar. Your thoughts?

[MMasz]

Both make sense to a point, but I`m not sure either by themselves would do the job entirely.



Your comments would be appreciated.

[paul34]

Even though people tell me to the contrary, I`ve never found my clay bars to do all that much LSP removal. Of course, I only have the "light" type clay... stepping up to a more aggressive clay would obviously involved more LSP removal.



If you`re just a detailer by hobby, then I think just polishing or using something like AIO would be good enough, right?

[atticdog]

I would like to try fk`s decontamination on my fathers nissan frontier its white and there is alot of tar in corners and crevices that i cant clay easily

[imported_Bence]

To answer the question, well, both methods have a definite place and can/should co-exist. Claying is a mildly abrasive cleaning, while a decon is an acidic deep cleaning. Clay is unable to remove embedded contaminants; it just shaves the tops off. If you have more serious below surface defects, you should do a decon.

And while a decon cycle does more than a claying session would, it is sometimes necessary to clay while the acid dwells on the surface to remove stubborn above surface contaminants mechanically.

[Bigpoppa3346]

Claying is a mildly abrasive cleaning...

Clay isn`t abrasive, at least not to your cars paint.

[paul34]

Well, technically, it is abrasive... otherwise it couldn`t "rub" the contaminants off

[Bigpoppa3346]

Well it doesn`t abrade away paint or create marring by itself, which is what I think of when I hear abrasive. It is abrasive to the contaminants, though.

[velobard]

If you`re just a detailer by hobby, then I think just polishing or using something like AIO would be good enough, right?

If you clay a car that`s been for any period of months without it, you`ll feel the difference on the paint. It`s worth doing at least once or twice a year, IMO. I`ve never done a decontam, but I have no doubt that it would remove some stuff that clay can`t. It`s also the best way of being sure you start with a fresh surface, much more than a Dawn wash would provide, to remove all your old LSPs and provide a clean surface for your next layers of protection.

[Dan]

Use clay on a car with some mild oxidation, preferably with a blue or darker colored bar and tell me you don`t see oxidation on the clay.

[paul34]

If you clay a car that`s been for any period of months without it, you`ll feel the difference on the paint. It`s worth doing at least once or twice a year, IMO. I`ve never done a decontam, but I have no doubt that it would remove some stuff that clay can`t. It`s also the best way of being sure you start with a fresh surface, much more than a Dawn wash would provide, to remove all your old LSPs and provide a clean surface for your next layers of protection.

Well I was just answering based on the context of only LSP removal. I agree claying should be used on any new vehicle as basically a first step (after washing, of course)

[qadsan]

Some clays are more agressive than others, but the common consumer grade clays in the auto parts stores are usually safe to use, provided they`re used properly. Detailing clays do in fact use microscopic abrasives to shave down or shear off bonded contaminants. Simply increasing or decreasing the type of abrasives, the physical size of the abrasives, the concentration of abrasives and the firmness of the resin being used will make the clay more or less agressive. Clay lube is very important because it`s what allows the clay to hydroplane across the surface without any marring or scratching. Anything above the normal surface is subject to the clay`s friction + abraision.

[imported_Bence]

Bigpoppa, clay IS abrasive. There is abrasive powder suspended in the mallable matter! It *can*, and heavier grades WILL mar paint. The smoothness after claying comes from the abrasive content, which is over 10.000 grit.



On the next two pics, you can see a wetsanded patches of a Chrysler Crossfire hood. Unfortunately, the relevant sanding is in the top left corner of the first picture and is difficult to see, but the surface is the same as the bigger sanding in the middle of the pic. Matte spot, no gloss whatsoever.



On the second picture (direct shot; showing the sanded spot), you can clearly see that after claying, there IS some gloss, because the weak abrasives of the clay were able to bring back the finish to a degree.



Gadsan, good explanation!

[04MC]

Ok I have tried 3M compound + orange pad with a griots orbital machine which is like the PC ... I still have water marks. Should I even bother with the FK1 decontamination kit?

[imported_Bence]

Certain water etchings are very serious, below surface defects. In this case, deep polishing (with a rotary) is necessary to get rid of the problem. The damage can be indeed that deep, that it can not be removed without compromising the integrity of the finish. I have two ugly spots behind my windshield washer jets. They are too deep to remove, so I have to live with them.



The decon is great when you have to clean/remove calcium deposits or milder water spots.

[SVR]

Clay will do for me. Any acidic product is not welcome in my garage and I can`t see it not being able to remove everything.

If a car is bad enough, I will clay, then do the first step polish with the rotary, wipe off residue and then clay again with same or softer clay. I also add polish to the surface which is coated in lube and that allows it to cut down or prevent marring and possibly strengthen the clay`s abrasiveness. Mostly poorboys pro polish or SSR 1. is used with clay

Once polishing steps are finished, I may even do a sonus green clay to guarantee all sub surface crap is removed. It`s only done once in a blue moon though.



FK1 might be a great product but because it`s acidic, what it`s ingredients are and the time required for the three step system. It`s not an option I will take.