Ultimate Duragloss Product Thread

[imported_paradigm]

ok...with the popularity and frequent questions regarding Duragloss products...how about making a FAQ thread that details each of the common products they offer? as a newb, i have found it confusing since the products are typically referred to by their numbers...and a definitive process on how to do a "full Duragloss treatment" can be intimidating.



i have questions about a few of the ancillary products (tire cleaner, glass cleaner, fabric cleaners), but will get things started.







Primary Protection Products:



Duragloss PBA - Polish Bonding Agent (601) - sealant bonding/curing agent. Duragloss` version of Zaino`s zfx. apply this first, let haze, and DO NOT REMOVE prior to sealant step.



Duragloss TPP - Total Paint Protection (105) - polymer sealant. applied directly on top of 601.





Quick Detail / Maintenance Protection Products:





Duragloss AquaWax (951) - polymer sealant spray. spray on / wipe off. works on top of other sealants w/out binding issues (Zaino, 4* UPP, etc).





Misc Protection / Cleaning Products:





Duragloss #301 Vinyl and Convertible Top Dressing: The best product for vinyl convertible tops I have found in 5 years of Mazda Miata ownership. The product is easy to use, provides a nice matte finish and water beads like a fine wax after the product dries. Once dried, this product will not wash off onto windows or paint. ...SB_92_MX5





Duragloss Process:



1. Wash with DAWN or strip old wax/sealant from the paint with your product of choice.



2. Perform any necessary paint cleaning, polishing, and swirl removing (i.e. claybar, SMR, etc).



3. *optional step* Apply 601 PBA. DO NOT buff PBA off, as you will apply 105 TPP over PBA in the next step. PBA is similar to Zaino`s Z1, not ZFX, if you are familiar with the Z system.



4. Apply the 105 TPP polish, using THIN coats. Do the whole car at a time, let haze, and buff off. If you used the 601 PBA in step 3, apply 105 TPP on top of the 601 PBA. Use the finger swipe test if you are unsure of when to buff the paint. Swipe your finger across a spot on the paint, and if it wipes away perfectly clean, with no smearing, it is ready for buffing.



5. Apply 951 AW on top to complete the protection steps. You can do multiple coats of AW for added “pop�.



6. *optional step* Use the 921 FC&S QD spray last, but the FC&S has little protective qualities like AW. The 921 FC&S will simply add more gloss and slickness.



7. Admire the great shine and enjoy fantastic protection!



Please Note:

Steps 1 and 2 are not Duragloss specific, and should be done regardless of the LSP that you use. Also, step 3 is optional (601 PBA), but it will likely enhance the durability and protection of the 105 TPP polish.



Maintain with the 901 CWC (Car Wash Concentrate). Apply 951 AW and/or 921 FC&S after each wash. …paraphrased from TigerMike

[Pats300zx]

Click Here for All the Info You Need

[imported_paradigm]

i guess i was hoping for more of a consolidated thread that provides process feedback, etc. the website may say "cleans tires" or "shines great", but that isn`t an autopian trusted statement.

[mongo]

I think this is quite a nice idea !!!





mongo

[SB_92_MX5]

I`ll add:



Duragloss #301 Vinyl and Convertible Top Dressing: The best product for vinyl convertible tops I have found in 5 years of Mazda Miata ownership. The product is easy to use, provides a nice matte finish and water beads like a fine wax after the product dries. Once dried, this product will not wash off onto windows or paint.

[imported_themightytimmah]

Does anyone have any reactions on DG 101 vs 104 paste?

[roadmaster_Tx]

Does anyone have any reactions on DG 101 vs 104 paste?

my vote goes to aquawax...but its the only duragloss prodcut ive tried..

[jdlierle]

When I talked to Jerry at Duragloss, one of the VPs and chemists, he had a very positive feedback for me to try the 105 and thought I would really like this product. Of course he owns the company, but he thought it was best product out on the market, and offered to me and presumably anyone, a money back guranttee including shipping that I would like it. He didn`t say it was better than Zaino, but said it was better than all Carnuba waxes.



However, the paste is a carnuba wax from what I gathered from him, because I asked about their paste. He said it was a good product, and they offer a money back guarantee on all their products, BUT HE SAID USE THEIR TPP or 105 POLISH. (PERIOD) with their PBA (bonding agent) In no uncertain terms, this is there best LSP for both Looks and durablity. He also said put 3 coats of 105 with 12 hours of cure time between them and put Aqua Wax on the last coat for the VERY BEST FINISH.



If you find something better (in application) from Duragloss please share, like Jerry told me, sometimes the end users like Autopians sometimes find better combinations. I have only used Aqua Wax, and their wheel cleaners. I was highly impressed and have bought 105, PBA, and I am just trying to find some time to polish my truck and use these product too. If they work out, I might try to use more of the Duragloss line as they seem to be very fine products plus economical when you consider you can buy in bulk and consider the shipping costs.

[MARCOSTAN]

Received my AquaWax 2 weeks ago. Due to the Duragloss is unable to ship oversea, ebay is the

only source I can get AquaWax. Believe it or not, the total I paid for a bottle of 500ml AW cost me

USD20.



For this money I paid for, IMHO Finish Kare FX100 is better than AW. Shine & ease of use is

idientical for AW & FX100, but come to Slickness, FX100 is much better than AW.



Of course base on the OTC value, u guys can easily get it locally and even pay much lesser for

shipping within USA. Then, AW still a good & cheap product to have.



Due to the high shipping charge, the cost for a bottle of AW and a bottle of FX100 is almost

the same. I shall go for FX100 anytime.



Just my 2 cents.



Marcos

[tomee]

whats teh difference between 105 and AW?

apart from one being a spray sealant

[TigerMike]

..and a definitive process on how to do a "full Duragloss treatment" can be intimidating.

There is no secret or magic to the process. Grab some 105 TPP, and apply to the car. Top with AW, and the result is fantastic. But if you`re looking for something more structured...



1) Wash with DAWN or strip old wax/sealant from the paint with your product of choice



2) Do any necessary paint cleaning, polishing, and swirl removing, i.e. claybar, SMR, etc...



3) (optional) Apply 601 PBA (not necessary, but will likely enhance durability/protection somewhat). DO NOT buff PBA off, as you will apply 105 TPP over PBA in the next step. PBA is similar to Zaino`s Z1, not ZFX, if you are familiar with the Z system.



4) Apply the 105 polish, using THIN coats. I do the whole car at a time, let haze and buff off. If you used the PBA in step 3, apply 105 on top of the PBA. Use the finger swipe test if you are unsure of when to buff the paint. Swipe your finger across a spot on the paint, and if it wipes away perfectly clean, with no smearing, it is ready for buffing.



5) Apply AW on top. You can do multiple coats of AW for added POP. You can also use the Fast Clean and Shine QD spray last (up to you), but the FC&S has little protective qualities like AW. The FC&S will just add more gloss and slickness.



6) Admire the great shine, and enjoy fantastic protection



Steps 1 and 2 are not Duragloss specific, and should be done regardless of the LSP product that you choose to use. Also, step 3 is optional to use the PBA, but as I said, it will likely enhance the durability and protection of 105 polish to an extent. There really isn`t any special technique to apply DG products.



I maintain with the 901 CWC, which is my fav wash product, found locally or not.





For the interior surfaces, I have been using their Duragloss UD (Vinyl & Leather Dressing) and it has been working wonders for me. I have found that dust attraction has significantly decreased on my dash surfaces and I really like the sheen that it gives (not too shiny, but you can tell something is there). I really like this product for the interior, and I also use it on the leather seating. Makes the leather nice and supple, not greasy or slick. The only negative to the UD dressing, IMO, is the smell. It has a really strange kinda smell, that is not offensive to me, but it would be nice if it smelled more "fresh and clean" instead of kinda musty, or like a cheap cologne. I like the UD much better than Meguiar`s Interior Quik Detail, which I previously had used for protection.



For a complete leather treatment, I use their leather cleaner and leather conditioner. Makes the leather smell like brand new, as the conditioner has that "leather jacket" smell.



Hope this helps somewhat.



Mike

[Guy]

My first impression of the Dg products I bought were of great excitement. They were easily obtainable, great price, easy application, but most important the look was fantastic! Plus after a week or so the shine got better, wetter and deeper on my charcoal gray truck.

I`ve never been one to like having to order and wait for a product, OTC is what I was looking for and have finally found it!

So far I have the bonding agent, 105, and the AW. I`m going to try more of the line such as the wash and wax remover for the trim.

[imported_paradigm]

3) (optional) Apply 601 PBA (not necessary, but will likely enhance durability/protection somewhat). DO NOT buff PBA off, as you will apply 105 TPP over PBA in the next step. PBA is similar to Zaino`s Z1, not ZFX, if you are familiar with the Z system.



4) Apply the 105 polish, using THIN coats. I do the whole car at a time, let haze and buff off. If you used the PBA in step 3, apply 105 on top of the PBA. Use the finger swipe test if you are unsure of when to buff the paint. Swipe your finger across a spot on the paint, and if it wipes away perfectly clean, with no smearing, it is ready for buffing.

i assume you only apply the 601 PBA once...and not during each layer?



great post and info...i will update the cumulative info above w/ your additions when i get a chance.

[TigerMike]

i assume you only apply the 601 PBA once...and not during each layer?

Correct, apply the PBA only once, not during each layer. The PBA should be used after every 5-10 (or so) coats of 105, or about twice a year, whichever comes first.

whats the difference between 105 and AW?

apart from one being a spray sealant

105 is a sealant polish, much like any other sealant. I liken it as most similar to Zaino Z5P, as far as currently available sealants go. The AW is a spray sealant product, and can be used as a standalone LSP or as a nice booster to the 105. I believe the AW could go 2+ months on its own as a standalone, so if you wanted to, just apply the AW after every wash or every other wash, and you`ll have great gloss, protection, and beading indefinitely. AW is to the DG system as Z8 is to Zaino, UPPS is to 4*, etc....



Mike

[wannafbody]

from my testing 601 should be used for max durability. Based on my testing on a piece of smooth black plastic 601 should be used as a base for any poly sealant - it really does anchor the sealant to the surface.



221- leather conditioner- very nice matte finish. softens leather