Plugwires and Plug Change

**CharlesW** · 12-25-2002, 12:22 PM

Car Ownership

Buying, selling, financing, insurance and service issues

Seems like the right forum, but?

My 1998 Pontiac Transport has 103,000 miles on it and I think it deserves new plugs and plug wires. It is a $240 job for a mechanic and since I can buy the plugs and wires for $75, I thought I would try a DIY project.

Any tips on how to get to the back plugs? I have heard that the front upper engine mounts can be removed and the engine rotated some to allow access to the rear plugs. The only service manual I have located so far is the $15 Chilton, which is worth about $1. I have been told that the Haynes manual is much better, but I haven`t been able to locate one locally. If I order one from the internet and it is no better than the Chilton, then I will have thrown away another $15-$20. I would rather pay the mechanic than accumulate a library of somewhat useless information.

Any suggestions?

Anyone have an opinion on the Haynes manual?

Charles

**BradE** · 12-25-2002, 12:54 PM

Charles,

I am not familar with this particular vehicle, but I have somewhat of a tip. I have a Ford Explorer, which it`s almost impossible to change the plugs in from the top of the engine. The back 2 plugs are right against the firewall and hard to reach.

I have found you can remove those plugs by going through the wheel well. Not sure if it will help in your case, but it`s worth a shot.

A few other tips are, get a spark plug wire boot puller. It will save your hands big time. Second, coat the threads of the new plugs with Anti-Sieze. Do 1 plug and 1 wire at a time, that way you remember how to route the wire. Always use the factory routing points for the wires if possible.

I am sure with patience you will be able to get it done, what stealers, oh excuse me dealers

, charge for this service is absurd.

Good Luck!

**CharlesW** · 12-25-2002, 01:28 PM

Ejant: Merry Christmas to you as well. My local library has the mechanics version of the Chilton manuals. Very complete, pictures and all. But, only up through 1996. Evidently, whoever is in charge of book purchases decided the car repair manuals did not get enough use to justify the cost. Like all public facilities, they are having budget problems.

SRL: Thanks for the tips. I haven`t really looked the situation over well enough to see where the access might be. On a Chevy Astro van I had, some of the plugs were reached from under the van, some from on top. A Monte Carlo I had needed a panel removed in the fender well after you removed the tire & wheel. I will definitely check under the car and in the fender well areas.

Overall, I have fairly good mechanical ability and quite a few tools, including a plug boot puller, learned that the bloody way. My reason for the question is that quite often there is some little trick that makes things much, much easier. Unfortunately, I usually hear about them right after I have completed the job.

Charles :xyxthumbs

**CharlesW** · 12-25-2002, 02:11 PM

Originally posted by ejant

Try going to a local Barnes and Nobel, you can look but don`t have to buy unless the manual is sealed.

Barnes & Noble and a Border`s Bookstore are on my list of places to stop in the near future. Both places allow you to pretty well examine any merchandise before you buy it. Next question will be if they have the manual for a Pontiac Transport, (Chevy Venture, Olds Sihouette), van. Not the most popular vehicles ever to hit the market.

Charles

**shaf** · 12-25-2002, 02:48 PM

Ugh, I feel your pain Charles! My parent`s Caravan is the same way - they suggest all sorts of messing around and removing engine mounts, etc. etc just to change the darn sparkplugs! Whoever designed it that way should (have something unsavory done to them). :down

It took me and my dad (one above, one below) and a lot of contorting and reaching to do it the "normal" way. Good luck to you!

**caddyman** · 12-25-2002, 04:46 PM

get the factory service manual helminc.com they are 120, but are 2 inches thick and cover EVERYTHING!

what engine does it have?

3.1,3.4, or 3.8? Sure its a 1998 TRANSPORT?

I will try to see what I can come up with, can you pull off the wires by the boot, in other words is there enough clearance?

**CharlesW** · 12-25-2002, 05:01 PM

Originally posted by caddyman

get the factory service manual helminc.com they are 120, but are 2 inches thick and cover EVERYTHING!

what engine does it have?

3.1,3.4, or 3.8? Sure its a 1998 TRANSPORT?

I will try to see what I can come up with, can you pull off the wires by the boot, in other words is there enough clearance?

Yeah, the Helm`s manual is great, but I`m not likely to tackle anything more involved than simple maintenance. If I keep it another 100k I`ll know how to replace the plugs the next time and won`t need the manual. It has the 3.4 engine and it is a 1998 Trans Sport. I think it`s kinda like a Trans Am, but with a little more room.

When I originally posted, I couldn`t remember if it was Transport or Trans Sport. Calling it a Trans Sport seemed a little presumptious. It`s a great van, but it is a van and in no way related to anything but transport of people and stuff.

**ryeh2o** · 12-25-2002, 05:49 PM

Hey Charles

I have a little trick when it comes to removing and inserting the plugs.

I found little room for ratchet and socket to travel after i had loosened the plug,while changing my rear plugs. So what it did was to first loosen the plug, then i got a piece of clear plastic tubing that fit tight onto the plug body, pushed onto the plug, finished turning it out, then lifted it while bending the tube all the way out.

I then inserted the new plug into the tube, and gently moved it back into the block, where i turned it till it was snug. Got the ratchet and socket back on it to tighten.

It is also wise to turn the boots at both ends, back and forth to break any seal, before pulling it off of distributor cap, or plug end.

Good luck, and safe knuckles

Ryeh2o

**CharlesW** · 12-25-2002, 06:32 PM

Originally posted by ryeh2o

Good luck, and safe knuckles

Thanks for the tip about the plastic tube. As for the safe knuckles, my wife bought me a pair of Mechanix golves a year or two ago. They work great, but I`m still as big of a klutz mechanic as ever. I guess I just don`t know how to use them.

Charles

**CharlesW** · 01-01-2003, 11:48 PM

None of the book stores had the Haynes manual. The Iowa State Library didn`t have any auto repair manuals, the Des Moines City Library had several, but no info on the Trans Sport.

Advance Auto Parts did have the Haynes manual and it is much, much better than the Chilton manual I purchased earlier. Tells me all about how I need to remove the fuse box, wiper motor cover, negative battery cable, airbox, air duct, upper motor mounts, disconnect cruise control, disconnect throttle cable, rotate engine to front of vehicle with ratchet strap, remove alternator, change plugs, "which can be somewhat difficult to get to on this model". Gosh, I never would have guessed.

Anyway, conclusion will occur when I take it to my mechanic and have him do the job. I think he will earn his money.

Thanks for all the help and advice.

Charles:wavey

**Lowejackson** · 01-02-2003, 07:11 AM

It may be better and easier to check if you really need new wires. First check that they are not damaged and then check the resistance of the cables, if they are all fine, you dont need new wires.

Steven