Newbie needs help please with paint issues!

**coryl** · 01-12-2010, 08:09 PM

Multi-step buffing would be better than claying to remove the contaminants?

I`ll either do it myself (if it`s claying), or I`ll get a detailer to do it if it`s buffing.

What is the best and easiest final sealing product if I`m going to do it by hand?

**Setec Astronomy** · 01-12-2010, 08:14 PM

Originally Posted by coryl

Everyone keeps telling me this same thing about the paint sealant, and that what I`ve really just purchased is a warranty...a very expensive warranty. What is it that the dealers use? It`s not wax...you can see the additional coating on the surface of the car...looks like some kind of shellac.

It does? You can see it because they missed spots? I`m not quite understanding how you are able to see an additional coating on the car...there is really no product (well, there are a couple) that builds up that much.

**coryl** · 01-12-2010, 08:42 PM

Originally Posted by Setec Astronomy

It does? You can see it because they missed spots? I`m not quite understanding how you are able to see an additional coating on the car...there is really no product (well, there are a couple) that builds up that much.

Ok, since I`m female I`ll describe it in the best way I know how in cosmetic terms...don`t know if it will make sense but I`ll try.

Take a fingernail that has been buffed and it`s really glossy and shines (like the car did before the sealant), then add a coat or two of clear nail polish and then you have what it looks like (after they applied the sealant)...you can actually notice the build-up, pre and post sealant. You can also see the miniscule `waves` of the product.

**Setec Astronomy** · 01-12-2010, 09:04 PM

I consider it highly unlikely that any sealant has "built-up" on the car. More likely the car wasn`t very clean when you saw it (by Autopian standards) and the washing and sealant application made it look a lot glossier. I`d bet the "waves" are poor application or removal (unremoved product). But you`ve had 2 pro detailers look at it...and apparently they weren`t very impressed with the dealer`s job because they suggested they remove it.

As I noted previously, there ARE a couple or 3 sealants that are professionally applied that ARE worth the money (referring to Opti-Coat and the like), but we don`t know of any dealers that would actually put on a product like that, only really good detailers.

**coryl** · 01-12-2010, 10:24 PM

Originally Posted by Setec Astronomy

I consider it highly unlikely that any sealant has "built-up" on the car. More likely the car wasn`t very clean when you saw it (by Autopian standards) and the washing and sealant application made it look a lot glossier. I`d bet the "waves" are poor application or removal (unremoved product). But you`ve had 2 pro detailers look at it...and apparently they weren`t very impressed with the dealer`s job because they suggested they remove it.

As I noted previously, there ARE a couple or 3 sealants that are professionally applied that ARE worth the money (referring to Opti-Coat and the like), but we don`t know of any dealers that would actually put on a product like that, only really good detailers.

I`m not sure what it is. All I know is that the finish is rough, and wavy/orange peel, but high gloss...looked like coating. So the options are, claying, wetsanding, buffing, or Maguires three step process (fine cut #2, swirl remover #9 , liquid wax #26)...what do I do to make the surface smooth with high shine?

Yes, both detailers said there is a problem and they both feel the dealer will destroy the car, and both have different recommendations as well. I`m confused about what to do now.:think:

**Setec Astronomy** · 01-12-2010, 11:02 PM

It sounds like both detailers you consulted are competent (famous last words!). I don`t think it`s going to make much difference what method/steps are taken, what`s more important is the competence of the detailer (more than one way to skin a cat). Why don`t you try posting a new thread, something like "Detailer Needed Ottawa Area".

**imported_Satinsilver** · 01-13-2010, 01:20 PM

Originally Posted by coryl

Lux told me that all the car needed was a claybar.

The second detailer (who I also buy my tires from) said he wouldn`t just claybar and would recommend Maguires #2 fine cut cleaner, then #9 swirl remover, then #26 hi-tech liquid wax to fix the problem.

Well the good news is the dealer didn`t have a chance to touch your car again. Be happy about that since the outcome most likely would have been disasterous.

Since your car has contaminants I like the 2nd detailers approach of using the 3 step Mequiars system. Will the 2nd detailer be claying the car before polishing? If he says "yes" then I think you may have a winner.

Make sure you receive an invoice from the detailer so you can bring it to the dealer in person with a friend(power of two) to get reimbursed.

**LuxeAutoLounge** · 01-15-2010, 08:06 AM

Hey Coryl!!!

BTW - I`m also a first time poster on here everyone!! - one of my friends `GTPaul` is also on this forum.. he has seen our store and some of our work.. and we have also seen the work HE has done on vehicles... simply stunning!!

As discussed, a thorough wash and clay bar treatment, follwed by a coat of Meguiar`s #26 Hi-Tech Yellow wax or #21 Synthetic Sealant is all that is really required in this case. Since the vehicle only has 1500km on it and is free from any swirls or defects (based on my last inspection...), I am hesitant to side with the recommendation by the other shop in terms of using a heavy cutting compound on the paint. It is simply not necessary as there are no paint defects - just minor surface contamination which is easily corrected with a clay bar session. As they say, the object of the game is to correct the paint while using the least aggressive method as to preserve the clear coat.

I look forward to fixing the Evo for you!!

**coryl** · 01-15-2010, 11:37 PM

Originally Posted by LuxeAutoLounge

Hey Coryl!!!

BTW - I`m also a first time poster on here everyone!! - one of my friends `GTPaul` is also on this forum.. he has seen our store and some of our work.. and we have also seen the work HE has done on vehicles... simply stunning!!

As discussed, a thorough wash and clay bar treatment, follwed by a coat of Meguiar`s #26 Hi-Tech Yellow wax or #21 Synthetic Sealant is all that is really required in this case. Since the vehicle only has 1500km on it and is free from any swirls or defects (based on my last inspection...), I am hesitant to side with the recommendation by the other shop in terms of using a heavy cutting compound on the paint. It is simply not necessary as there are no paint defects - just minor surface contamination which is easily corrected with a clay bar session. As they say, the object of the game is to correct the paint while using the least aggressive method as to preserve the clear coat.

I look forward to fixing the Evo for you!!

Hi there,

I`m so concerned with the dealer and paint warranty. I sent you the responce sent to me today from the dealer that they don`t think it`s contamination...

"Our service manager does not agree with the contaminant theory; the light sandy finish is over spray from the factory, not from contaminants. It is too uniform all over the car and that is consistant with overspray. In all honesty, I do not have much experience in this area so I cannot provide personal comment. However, our service manager does have experience and I trust his opinion. The remedy for this problem is wetsanding not claybar. Todd is very good and the type of sandpaper used for this is extremely fine. This work is all done by hand, no power tools. I think you will be very pleased with the result."

It`s crazy that they don`t think the simpler methods will work such as claybar and are willing to spend much $`s on the fix which so confuses me...they even want to remove the entire clearbra and replace it. Can you clay bar 1/2 the hood and then I`ll take it in to show them, or should I just get you to clay the car and then bring them the bill as suggested? I actually don`t care about the extra cost if I have to foot it, it`s just the warranty I worry about and Mitsu`s poor paint quality.

**salty** · 01-16-2010, 01:19 AM

Claying (grades) takes care of most overspray. Whether if can be done with out marring the paint, depends.

To wet sand this car would be the second last resort, new paint being last.

By "doing it by hand", I hope he doesn`t mean compound-polish also!

I would explain that you will get the removal done some else and come back for a reapplication of their sealant and warranty, for no charge.

**coryl** · 01-16-2010, 10:25 AM

Originally Posted by salty

Claying (grades) takes care of most overspray. Whether if can be done with out marring the paint, depends.

To wet sand this car would be the second last resort, new paint being last.

By "doing it by hand", I hope he doesn`t mean compound-polish also!

I would explain that you will get the removal done some else and come back for a reapplication of their sealant and warranty, for no charge.

How can claying mar a finish, and if that happens how is that fixed?

**coryl** · 01-16-2010, 12:16 PM

Originally Posted by coryl

How can claying mar a finish, and if that happens how is that fixed?

Ok, I just looked it up...it`s not the clay itself, and is the contaminants it picks up.

**salty** · 01-16-2010, 12:53 PM

There are many different grades of clay. From clays that hardly remove anything, all the way up to something like Z- Bar which marrs instantly.

**coryl** · 01-16-2010, 02:44 PM

Originally Posted by salty

There are many different grades of clay. From clays that hardly remove anything, all the way up to something like Z- Bar which marrs instantly.

Ok, so it`s the clay as well.

I also have a scratch on the upper part of the door frame, that the dealership did when they installed my security system. They said that this would be fixed at the same time they did the wetsanding. So now that I won`t get the car wetsanded, what would be the way to have that fixed? Most of the scratch appears as if it can be buffed out (the area that is on the outside the car), but the small amount on the edge of the door has gone right through. Any suggestions on this?

**gtpaul** · 01-16-2010, 04:45 PM

You are going to have no luck with the dealership. They typically think they know how to deal with every issue with old methods that have been passed onto them.

The chances that the car picked up overspray at the factory is slim to none. It could have picked up plenty of contaminents during transport, or from someone being careless in the shop at the dealership.

Save yourself the headache and trust our opinions that it can be removed by simply clay-barring. If it cannot be removed with clay, it is more then likely a factory paint defect which you will have to escalate the issue to Mitsubishi`s district manager.

I have fixed cars for a couple customers who have taken delivery of a new car and it has been contaminated. The dealership always puts up a fuss but when you can prove they are wrong, they give in. Get a section of the car clay-barred or do it yourself (Canadian Tire $20~ for a kit)

Here is some of my work, to prove to you that I know what I am talking about when it comes to reconditioning. Park Avenue Detailing | Ottawa, ON | Portfolio

If you want me to take a look for a second opinion I will be more then happy to.. I am located in the West-End of Ottawa. If Kyle @ Luxe says it can be fixed with clay then I would trust his opinion too.