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  1. #16

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    Re: Repairing and repainting small amounts of rust in engine bay

    jwyfk- Before I forget it again...note that many Rust Converters don`t *really* leave a "nicely primed surface that any paint will stick to". They say that, but it doesn`t always work out that way (again, not slamming any particular product).

    I`d *absolutely* get underneath and spray some Eastwood stuff under there to keep it from coming back even worse (as in, rust-out). Can`t say whether I`d use their BHDAR or their Frame Coater stuff, but I`d sure do *something* from that side after addressing the top part.

    I`d also do the same to the gaps around the plates, which I`m guessing don`t show.

    I`d be all about not letting this "minor surface rust" turn into a complete weld-in-new-steel rust problem.

    So...[repeat previous product recommendations and] give some more thought to whether you could live with some satin-black sealer (the BHDAR) if it`s a choice between that and ongoing rust concerns. The way that bearing plate (thanks, EXPDetailing...the term was eluding me) is always gonna move about a little makes me think that just painting it won`t work any better for you than it did for the factory`s work.
    Thanks jwyfk thanked for this post

  2. #17

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    Re: Repairing and repainting small amounts of rust in engine bay

    Quote Originally Posted by Stokdgs View Post
    Have you noticed the top side being wet all the time from rain, etc.. ??
    Thanks Dan, I`m not going to cut any corners on this. I`ve got too much time and money invested to let it rust in some hidden area. I paid a local guy a lot of money to do engine work and fabrication. I paid him cash any time he wanted money and he never finished the car. After 3 years, I spent over $3000 in legal fees and it took an additional year or so to get him to finish. During the time it was at his shop, there was a flood. I stopped down there and every other customer`s car was up on the lift or concrete blocks, except for mine. I think he was hoping it would be ruined, so he wouldn`t have to work on it anymore. He lied about being able to do fabrication and I think that`s why the car sat for so long. His garage was elevated, so not much water came in there. There were some Porsches and other race cars that were ruined in a trailer next to the shop. I saw the line of mud from the flood only went as high as the sidewall of my tires and didn`t touch the rim, so I`m lucky. I don`t know if the humidity in the shop, or splashing from the clean-up could have caused this, but it`s possible. He did put $2600 worth of scratches on my car, but the magistrate only gave me $400. I called the magistrates office and was told there`s no way to find out how she came to this judgement. Maybe it`s because the car is 17 years old, I don`t know. I appealed and will go back to court next month.

    Other than that, I don`t know. I live in the northeast and drove the car in the winter. I also wash my engine bay, and it`s possible that water got trapped underneath the strut tower brace plate.

    Quote Originally Posted by EXPDetailing View Post
    There`s a bearing_plate that sits between the strut tower brace and the strut itself. Maybe, you could replace those, the struts and address things with sandpaper and a sealant.
    So, you`re saying that the studs are just a plate that`s underneath and goes through those oval holes? I hope no cutting is involved up top, if that`s the case. The struts are good. Why would I replace them?

    Here is a picture of the OEM strut tower brace. (Not my picture)

  3. #18

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    Re: Repairing and repainting small amounts of rust in engine bay

    jwyfk- IMO your first order of business is to get a good look-see on the underside to figure out what you`re really dealing with.

    How big/tough of a job is it to take the struts off the car? Some are stupid-simple, others are big deal-hard. If you could get everything out of the way so you`re just dealing with the panel and the holes in it/the plates/the rest individually it`d be a lot easier to get a good repair. Otherwise, the holes/slots/etc. that are the groundfloor of the rust problem are all filled up with the threaded bits (are they studs? bolts? I know *nothing* about this car..) to where you can`t really get in there to do a proper repair. Not that a "proper" repair is always what you have to do to solve the problem

    If nothing else, this thread has prompted me to go about my Crown Vic the right way...sigh, more $ for products. Nobody else cares about my undercarriage, but I do and I`d rather not do it again in the foreseeable future.

    Hey, something else I`m gonna forget if I don`t post it now- if/when you soak the rusty area with some Rust Killing Product via the "wet a paper towel with Product and keep it pressed against the rust somehow for a long time"- method, I`d use *VIVA* paper towels. Yeah, I know that specifying the brand of paper towel sounds nutty, but seriously...They`re very "cloth-like" compared to regular paper towels and while that makes them a little harder to satuate with Product, it also keeps them from disintegrating so much and IME they really do work considerably better for stuff like this.
    Thanks jwyfk thanked for this post

  4. #19

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    Re: Repairing and repainting small amounts of rust in engine bay

    Accumulator, I`m sorry, I didn`t mean to ignore your post above mine. I didn`t realize there was a second page. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, there`s not a whole lot of space in my townhouse garage to start removing struts and grinding away underneath. At this point, after I get my fuel injectors back from flow testing, I`m going to take the car to a body shop, so they can check it out. I`ll ask them about the products you mentioned to make sure they don`t cut any corners. I`ll post back when I find out. By the way, thank you for the Viva recommendation!

  5. #20

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    Re: Repairing and repainting small amounts of rust in engine bay

    jwyfk- OK, glad to be helpful. See what the bodyshop says. BE SUSPICIOUS! This is the kind of thing that so many shops will say "no problem buddy!", do a fix, take your $, and then a few years later you`re *right back where you started*, maybe even with even worse rust. (I worked in a bodyshop, I patronize a few *good* bodyshops. I know how this stuff goes and that`s one reason why I DIY this sort of stuff if at all possible. In ~40 years of having rust fixed, in cases like this I can honestly say that it often/usually came back to some extent unless they completely replaced the panels.) Eh, don`t mean to make you paranoid, but this is just one of those things where it`s *really* hard to get a permanent fix and really *easy* to get one that only lasts a short time.

    I hear you on not being able to remove the strut, IMO that just means you`d have to rely on products that`ll creep into the tight spots and stay there to arrest the rust you can`t really get to.

    Again, see what the shop says, post back if you like and I`ll be happy to give you my 2¢ I`d be all about avoiding paying for a temporary fix that ends up being wasted money.
    ¢

  6. #21

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    Re: Repairing and repainting small amounts of rust in engine bay

    Accumulator, I appreciate that, thank you! I`ll post back when I get a chance.

  7. #22

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    Re: Repairing and repainting small amounts of rust in engine bay

    These can be great for getting product into tight spots- https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...e=&from=Search

 

 
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